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**CaperMike** · #1 7 May 2014

May 3
The ferry to Cesme left at 9AM.There were plenty of pedestrians but we were the only vehicle.We have had beautiful weather after in arriving in Cesme.When we drove off the ferry, we met Karen from Iowa. She now lives in Istanbul and works in a library, wanted to take our picture. We had stopped to take pictures immediately after disembarking.She said she writes a blog and likes to write about Americans who are traveling.She said we are living the dream just traveling around and seeing the world on a motorcycle.

Our European insurance is not valid in Turkey. We needed to buy Turkish insurance before we could get our bike through the border. Had to walk into town but no one seemed to know where the office was located. Finally called the Turkish insurance bureauand got the address. Bought the insurance and started the Turkey part of the trip.

We had corresponded with Ozhan who was a member of the Turkey VStrom club. We said we would met for a

. While we were driving from Cesme to Ismir, another VStrom passed us. We waved, checked out each others bike and went on. Turned out it was Oxhan. What are the odds in a city of 4.5M people.

Later that day Oxhan and Beste met us dountown and we roamed around the town while we got acquainted. Beste and Ozhan are PHD physics specialists who work at the local university. Ozhan did some of his work at Yale and Beste did her PHD thesis at Loyala in Montreal. It is a small world.

Berber – MAS – the place to buy Turkish insurance
Berber – MAS – right next to the mosque
Getting cash – no shortage of ATMs
Making friends in customs
Coming into Izmir
Beverly and Besta along waterfront in Izmir
Mike, Beverly, Besta, Ozhan at dinner near Izmir

**CaperMike** · #2 9 May 2014

May 5
We mostly stayed at Ozhan’s working on laundry, organizing pictures, planning our trip and our blog.Mike ventured into town on a few errands.
In the evening we had dinner with Betsa, her friend, Ayse, and at least 10 other physicists from Turkey and other countries.Mostly theoretical astronomical physicists – you know black holes, Higgs Boson particle, quantum physic stuff.They are all here for a conference where they are trying to set up a third center of its kind in the world.The other two are in Italy and Brazil. The brain power was staggering but

was the great equalizer.

We drank

and laughed, listened to so many wonderful places to visit in Turkey.How can we possibly visit or have all these experiences?Of course, we can’t.Has Turkey made it to our return list already?

We met Isha.She is an astronomical physicist studying black-holes.She lives in Istanbul with her husband, who is also a physicist.They invited us to stay at their home if they are not obligated to other conferences.

We talked to Tugrul, who knows a great deal about Turkey.He is a well-known in solid state physics.We suggested that the decisions whether or not to go to war should be left to us, the people– not the politicians.

Beverly has this idea that Betsa is representative of and alternative life that she may have lived.They talked about alternative universes and quantum physics where such things could be possible.The difference between Beverly and Betsa, though, is that Betsa actually understands the concepts and the math.They both are interested in the fiction, Flash Forward;Beverly read the book and Betsa watched the TV series.They were truly sad to leave each other.

We will meet Ozhan's friend in Fethiye and in Kas there is diving among some ancient ruins sunk by an earthquake. We haven't dove for a while but I think we have to do it. 18 days left in Turkey and already we are out of time for what we want to do.

Deep in conversation with Tugrul
The physicists
Selfie
Beverly and Mike leaving Ozhan’s house

**CaperMike** · #3 9 May 2014

May 4
Ozhan graciously offered to take us on a Motorcycle tour.Beste could not go with us because she had work to do.
We toured the village of Sirinci where Beverly bought spices for her friend Kathy. We hiked to the tower that could not be knocked down.The man who built the tower had a bed and breakfast up the hill.He wanted to build a tower but the government said no.He built it anyway and they threw him in jail.He is there for 2 years.They didn’t knock down the tower.When we were walking down we were invited for tea.
A car park was at the end of the market streets, meaning we drove through the narrow lanes filled with vendors, shoppers and tourists.
The7th stage of the 50th Presidential Cycling Tour of Turdy was supposed to be passing through the same roads we traveledthe very next day on May 5.We stopped by the big banner for the cycle race along the mountain up to Meryen Ana.Meryen Anais the last place Mary lived.Jesus asked the apostle John to look after Mary after he was crucified and took her to this place.
After visiting Mary’s place, we had lunch in Selcuk which is right next to Ephesus (the Ephician place)
That night, we enjoyed dinner at Nar Café and Kumru in Urla Isleke which is right along the water.
What a lovely day.

Mike and Ozhan hiking to tower
Mike hiking to tower
Mike and Ozhan hiking to tower
Beverly and Mike having tea
Mike and Ozhan
Ozhan taking a corner
Beverly and Mike at Meryen Ana
At the bike race sign
Beverly and Mike in Sunset
Beverly and Mike in Sunset

**CaperMike** · #4 11 May 2014

May 6, 2014
We said goodbye to Ozhan and after 5 hours we were in Fethiye.Ozhan’s friend, Ezgin Tan, who works at a local sports store, made a reservation for us at a local hotel.
We stopped for lunch and the place had lunch where Beverly said it was the best salad bar she had ever seen.The chef, waiter and other crew wanted pictures with us.
It was a beautiful drive – especially cresting the top of the mountain before the road descends to sea-level on several switch-backs.Mike offered to take the group pictures for the other people who stopped to document themselves against the backdrop of the awesome scenery.
During the drive, we were stopped three times by the police;twice at the toll booths – one of those times we took pictures and the traffic police officer took selfies of all of us.The other time was for speeding.We knew about the speed traps before coming to Turkey and got hit anyway.The ticket saysthat we are supposed to pay it before we leave the country.
After arriving in Fethiye, we went for a walk along the promenade which extends maybe 2 miles around the bay.A man sold us a fresh fish – he brought it out with a lemon stuffed in its mouth to show us.Served with salad, sauces and fries.How much is it?Eighteen.(Lira) OK.We thought it must be 18 each, which is about $9.It was a fabulous meal and we weren’t even disappointed to find out that it was eightEE – not eighteen.

Mike taking pictures for a group
Hot water heaters everywhere
Fish before dinner
Artsy in the marina
Fish after dinner
Artsy after dinner
Ezgin at DoDi sports

**CaperMike** · #5 12 May 2014

May 7, 2014

After enjoyingTurkish coffee withEzgin, Ozhan’s friend, at the sporting good store, we said our good-byes and drove 120 miles to Kas(pronounced cash).We found the NaturaBlue Scuba shop, recommended by Sultan, Ozhan’s girlfriend, and went for an afternoon dive at the dive site called Neptune.We saw pottery on the ocean floor, trigger fish and a black-haired fish. We both hadn’t dove for a while but the dive was easy and we were comfortable. We passed the test for a bigger dive tomorrow.

Adnan, the owner of the Meltem where we were staying, invited the guests to a fish dinner on the terrace of the hotel.It was quite a spread. He just went down to the market and bought a fish for each guest. We sat with Suzanne and Steven from England who were hiking the Lycian Way.

Kas is place we could see ourselves hanging out for a few days.It is not expensive, the Meltem Hotel is nice. There are hikes, beaches and other things to do. Of course like most places in this part of the world, there are ancient ties.

1. Turkish Tv/Actress star wit Mike
2. Dive Boat
3. Eran and Beverly
4. Suzanne and Steven and Mike at dinner
5. Beverly and Mike all dressed for dinner on the terrace
6. Beverly jumping into the Mediterranean Sea
7. It was a great dive

**CaperMike** · #6 12 May 2014

May 8, 2014

Being in the water yesterday was such a great experience, we decided to do it again. And besides, a dive operation always checks out your diving before they take you to the good spots.The Canyons dive was truly amazing. The topography had lots of structure.If we were at home, it would be perfect for Ling Cod.One of the canyons was a deep crevice.We knelt on the bottom under a small overhang and looked up at a diver’s shadow against the light from the surface.It was quite a picture opportunity – but we had no underwater camera.Later,

Eren snagged a camera from another of the crew and took a few pictures of us.

It was tempting to continue with the diving adventure but we really wanted to get to Sanliurfa.We had hoped to get to Konya by the evening.It would be a long drive.We decided on the route through Antalya just in case we needed a bail out.Not long after departing Kas it started to rain.The roads were extremely slippery in areas.We saw one car spun out.We slipped several times on corners and stopping even though we were taking it very slow.This is the first rain Mike’s jacket has experienced and it is not as effective as it should be in keeping the water away from the body.Needless to say, it was best for us to get off the road. The tour of Turkey rode this route.
The Tour of Turkey route was neutralized part way just northwest of Kas because of the bad roads when wet. This is what Mark Cavendish said about them…

After 30km on the slick descent off the first categorised climb, around 20 riders crashed. It wasn't an easy stage right from the beginning. During the first categorised climb, it went wet and the roads on the inland of Turkey it's like marble when its wet - it's incredible. Even going uphill round a corner the wheels were going."
"The organisers made a wise, wise decision to of neutralise the race - there were guys everywhere.

We found the Hotel Europa in Antalya.The weather forecast was for 2-3 more days of rain.During dinner, we started working on a new time-line for our trip.
1. Joseph and Beverly
2. Mike Beverly and Eran
3. Selfie
4. Meltam Hotel in Kas
5. Mike at Europa in Antalya
6. Beverly and Mike diving
7. Beverly and Mike diving

**CaperMike** · #7 13 May 2014

May 9, 2014

It is still raining – sometimes pouring.The forecast shows more rain for tomorrow.
We are stuck in the rain for two days so we changed plans and wrecked our budget.We might have to go back to Ozhan's and sleep on his couch and eat his food. If we flew to Sanliurfa, we would have to go through Istanbul.Instead, we flew to Diyarbakir, a town about 100 miles from Sanliurfa with a direct flight from Antalya. We will visited the ancient city of Mardin and Gobekli Tepe which is a recently discovered temple 12000 years old. We will be back to Antalya on Sunday and continue our trip to Cappadoccia.

Our flight left Anatlya at 9:00 and arrived at 11PM in Diyarbakir. Cab, hotel Seker and we were ready to hit it in the morning; we will be on our way first to Mardin and then to Sanliurfa.

We are hoping that we aren’t labeled off topic by flying and then driving to one of our destinations rather than riding.We’ll back on the bike in a few days though.It really was dangerous and miserable.

Beverly working on a new plan
Flight leaving in the rain

**TM1-SS** · #8 14 May 2014

Loving following along with Y'all via the HUBB!! I hope better weather for you in the coming days!

**CaperMike** · #9 14 May 2014

Submariner, we are glad you enjoy it. Thanks for commenting. We are having a blast.

**Dicky** · #10 14 May 2014

Good stuff. Wonder if it was you I saw the other day when I was in Kas.

All the best,

Dicky

Kas-Antalya, Turkey | Horizons Unlimited

**CaperMike** · #11 16 May 2014

May 14

Up at 4:00.Yikes that is early.We are going to visit rock formations of Cappadocia by a hot-air balloon.That early in the morning, nothing sounds like a good idea.What were we thinking?

The pictures explain it.We were treated to these breathtaking sights at sunrise. WOW

It was a cool morning so one might think you would need extra clothing for altitude and wind.But the balloons go WITH the wind.It is calm, serene and peaceful.

1.Getting ready to go
2. Take Off
3. Some balloons still on the ground
4. Sun Rise
5 – 9 Floating and exploring

**CaperMike** · #12 18 May 2014

May 14 (continued)
In the evening we went to dinner at Metin’s and met his family. We became good buddies with Metin. His shop is a family run business. He invited us to his house for a meal. We met his daughters and his grandchildren. Through translators on iPhones and Metin and I speaking in broken French, we had a great evening. People and families have the same basic values everywhere.

We had some memorable pictures of the evening but Beverly lost the pictures in a card transfer to the computer. If they are recoverable, we'll post them later.

**CaperMike** · #13 18 May 2014

May 15

From Avanos in Cappadocia to Ankara it was about 250 miles.Except for a few days of rain, we have been treated to outstanding weather.Today it is starting to warm up – not hot, but it feels good to take off the helmet.Ankara is the capital city of Turkey and is a new, modern city. Not much of interest but some museums.

The manager of the hotel 2000 Antitepe came out when a motorcycle parked in his allotted parking place.Realizing that we had reservations, he was gracious and helpful.We wanted to go to the bazaar and to the museum of civilization but he said that it wasn’t safe.Instead, we walked over to the monuments and mausoleum in honor of Mustafa Anaturk, a Turkish hero.
Anaturk is considered the creater of modern Turkey. He embarked upon a program of political, economic, and cultural reforms, seeking to transform the former Ottoman Empire into a modern, secular, and democratic nation-state. Under his leadership, thousands of new schools were built, primary education was made free and compulsory, and women were given equal civil and political rights, while the burden of taxation on peasants was reduced.

We took the subway downtown and came upon the remnants of a protest over the Soma coal mine disaster. There were police in riot gear and a little buzz in the air but generally everyone was going about their business. According to some of the Turkish people we met, there is a general dissatisfaction with the government and it doesn’t take much to start a protest.

1. A stop for a lunch break on the drive to Ankara
2. In front of our hotel in Ankara
3. Anaturk’s monument hall
4. Ankara from the hill
5. Mike at Anaturk’s site
6. Mike at the subway station to downtown
7. Beverly at Kizilay square
8. Mike at Kizilay square

**CaperMike** · #14 18 May 2014

May 16

We looked around Ankara a bit and got on the road to Istanbul. It Was a good driving day and although one of our goals was to drive across the Bosphorus bridge like James Bond in Skyfall, we took a shortcut on a ferry ride from Yalova to Istanbul. Met a local Turk who went to Texas A&M. He works for a piping company that has a plant in Houston.

We made our way to the Hotel Maywood. It was exciting driving through the old town. Even our bike with the panniers was too wide to get through some places.

We went to dinner and met Robert and Ursula. Robert is a Dutch diplomat and Ursula studies and works on migration issues in the middle east. We had a great discussion and solved 4 of the outstanding world’s problems. Ursula and Beverly dominated the conversation on the status of women in the world.

Istanbul is awake all night. We roamed around for a while and then went to the hotel half asleep.

1.Waiting for the ferry to Istanbul in Yalova
2.Mike talking to his new friend on the ferry
3.Istanbul in the distance
4.Two mosques we will visit – Sofya and Blue
5.A local Turk who went to Texas A&M
6.The home for the bike the next few days

**CaperMike** · #15 19 May 2014

May 17

Turbo Touring.

We are stayed at the Maywood hotel which is right in the center of old town in the Sultanahmet district.We walked to the Hagia Sofya mosque and then the Blue mosque. The Hagia Sofia mosque was first constructed in the 5th century and is now a museum. The Sultan Ahmed Mosque( blue for the tile colors) was built in the early 1600s and is still a functioning Mosque. It was very nice weather on a Saturday with plenty of people.Tickets are required for Sofya but not the Blue.At the Blue, they have clothing rules for women but they do supply the clothes.Beverly had her own scarf but they gave her a skirt.Mike’s attire was fine except everyone has to take off their shoes. We spent quite some time sitting on a bench having lunch and just watching the people go by.Some of the women are traditionally dressed and some not.

1. Inside the Ayasofya mosque
2. Mike studying the map
3. Mike on the park bench where we watched people
4.A group of traditionally dressed women
5.People everywhere at the Blue Mosque
6. Sign about the mine disaster – hung on the Blue Mosque
7. Dress instructions for women
8. Beverly in her proper attire
9. Inside the Blue Mosque
10. Beverly and Mike inside