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15 Jun 2012
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Yakima WA
Posts: 146
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6/10/2012
We spent today on the ferry. We had our usual cozy cabin. We slept in, had breakfast in the room, and watched the ocean and read. No phone, no internet; nothing to do but rest and think. The resting is good but we prefer to avoid the thinking part.
The ship is full of trucks because apparently the roads in Poland are so poor, the truckers prefer to bypass it. Apparently, there are over 150 trucks on this ferry.
Trucks on the ferry
The ferry docked in Kiel about 10pm but it took an hour for all those trucks to get off. This isn’t the kind of ferry we are used to seeing in Washington State where you can drive through: loading on one end and unloading on the other. These big trucks have to turn around to get off. It appears quite a confusion but I am sure it is well orchestrated. They do this every day.
We drove not far to Molfsee where we had already stayed at Hotel Catherineberg on May 19 just before heading North to Oslo. It seems so long ago. The hotel was a familiar site. It was after midnight but the owners had our room waiting and we put our bikes in the garage.
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15 Jun 2012
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Yakima WA
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5/11/2012
Sometimes you just want to get there. Today is a day solely with a destination in mind. We have over 400 miles to travel from Molfsee, just outside of Kiel, to Heidelberg where we will end the 3rd chapter of our European wanderings. Since this chapter won’t be over until we complete a list of maintenance and repairs, we have planned a day in Heidelberg to do that work. That way we will be ready for chapter 4 next spring when we are planning a trip to Bulgaria and Turkey.
We wanted to get an early start in the morning but we rarely set an alarm. If we are sleeping well we want to keep sleeping. Maybe that is because we are old but maybe it is just because we like to sleep. Today we must have been sleeping well so we didn’t wake until after 8. We were on the road by 10. Then it was 8 hours of autobahn driving except for a few stops for gas and eating. We arrived back at Knopf tours at 6 pm.
Bikes parked in front of their rooms at Knopf Tours
We got the BMW room this time
Even the toilet carries the BMW theme
A visit to Knopf tours always starts with meeting the other riders – those just leaving and those just coming back. This time we were just ending our trip. Mike Lewis (another Mike) was just coming back too. He embarked on his trip in 2009! He is staying another month before he ships his bike back. He just recently got a ferry out of Syria. And we think WE have an adjustment to make when we go back after only one month on the road.
Mike Lewis
Some of his equipment is attached firmly to his bike with bailing wire. He lightheartedly jokes that he should be sponsored by a bailing wire company. It would be a shame to have to make the repairs and take away the character that bailing wire gives his bike. He is riding with a purpose in mind: WriteAroundTheWorld.org. You can read more about his travels at BLOG
We also met Robert who is getting ready to go South: A ferry from Nice to Corsica and other destinations for 6 weeks.
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16 Jun 2012
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5/12/12
Mike is not the only one putting on new tires. Stephan is getting some help from Robert to change the tire on one of his bikes. Mike replaced front tires for both of us.
Stephan, Robert and Mike changing tires
A new tire
Mike changed the oil in both bikes and put on a new chain and sprocket on the blue bike. It had never been changed and was in surprisingly good shape after nearly 28000 miles. Time to change it anyway.
A new sprocket
The mileage for the trip was estimated to be just under 3000 miles. It ended up to be over 3300 miles. A few side trips and some extra side roads. And it was all good.
We spent the day getting the bikes ready to put away and talking to the new travelers, Charles from New Mexico and his cousin from Hawaii, just coming back from their trip on Corsica.
Bikes all cleaned up for our next adventure, hopefully Bulgaria and Turkey next spring.
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)

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Ripcord Evacuation Insurance is available for ALL nationalities.
What others say about HU...
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!

Every book a diary
Every chapter a day
Every day a journey
Refreshingly honest and compelling tales: the hights and lows of a life on the road. Solo, unsupported, budget journeys of discovery.
Authentic, engaging and evocative travel memoirs, overland, around the world and through life.
All 8 books available from the author or as eBooks and audio books
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
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