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Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



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  #1  
Old 4 Jan 2015
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G'day Andi and Ellen

Great to catch up on your travels ,love the storm and light house shots .fantastic .Seams you have met some wonderful folk in Brazil .Anyhow great you are still having (mostly )a good time .pity about the bloody shock .until next time YDF Noel
P.s also now on ADVrider under the name breezealong

Oh forgot wishing you a fantastic new year ,lets hope we meet up some place this year
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  #2  
Old 9 Jan 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noel900r View Post
Great to catch up on your travels ,love the storm and light house shots .fantastic .Seams you have met some wonderful folk in Brazil .Anyhow great you are still having (mostly )a good time .pity about the bloody shock .until next time YDF Noel
P.s also now on ADVrider under the name breezealong

Oh forgot wishing you a fantastic new year ,lets hope we meet up some place this year
Heya Noel

Yes the weather played into our hand for pics but not ideal for camping

Sad leaving Brasil, good times man that place is amazing to say the least.

Spotted ya on ADV .. .welcome to the loopy side.

Cheers Andi
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  #3  
Old 9 Jan 2015
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Punta De Este To Frey Bentos

Finishing at the beach we headed to Punta Del Este to Casa Pueblo the famous artists house, our winning streak of good weather over with strong winds and heavy rain … and this time cold with it.

This is what it was like when we past through a week earlier

IMG_4224 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Getting to Casa Pueblo we were wet and cold so a welcomed break inside was great, we contemplated a coffee but the prices meant we had to sell Maya and we needed her afterwards so that didn’t happen. :rofl

P1220074 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

IMG_4291 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

IMG_4295 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Better post an artyfarty picture or I will get told off :rofl

IMG_4284 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

As we left is was caving in again ... not a pleasant moto day.

P1220078 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Turning inland we had the wind following us which was a nice reprieve, the grim weather still following us like a bad fart though :evil, finally arriving in Durazno we thought about a hotel, again cold and a little damp we looked at a couple of places finding them fairly spendie, we pissed around and went to an ATM machine and supermarket then decided what we were going to do.

Mum nature deciding we needed a break popped through with sunshine and slowly but surely it came clearer so camping was on again….just in the nic of time.clap

Thank you to Life Remotely we had PDFed the information and the GPS coords taking us right to the door to a monster camp ground which was all but empty, it gets better cos it was gratis.

IMG_4306 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

IMG_4299 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

It had been very wet so the ground was sodden but drying, hot shower and toilet complete and a small fire place… what else could we want.

IMG_4303 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Again we lit a fire, cooked our food and smoked out the mosquitos, apart from the odd hoon ripping around in the mud the place was quiet.

Setting off the following morning we managed to dry almost everything, the border was our mission and as far as we could get before stopping when tired or a nice spot was found.

Our road which was totally asphalt …but apparently not causing some extra time due to a puffy wet road slowing us down and when we got to the asphalt section there were bomb sized potholes to go around.…one of which owned us.

A dry section :clap

P1220094 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

We had scooted around about 10 potholes before reaching the daddy of potholes with no way around, Ellen saw it coming so she stood up on the pegs, quick shit myself, a very quick squeeze of brakes and a quick yank of the throttle to lighten the front wheel at least, we still hit with a thump, the tire, forks and flex bars all working hard to absorb the impact, if I had laid on the brakes and stayed on them we would have creased a rim without a doubt and likely have been thrown off Maya….the pothole nearly big enough to make a POI ….Canyon De Uruguay 8-)

This was a typical section of good road, this pothole a mere dimple by comparison to the daddy, we should have parked in it to show the size :eek1

P1220095 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Counting our lucky stars assessing that everything was still round we continued to the border for a painless exit and entry in Argentina

At Frey Bentos there is a huge mofo bridge that take you high (for a flat place) to give you a great view (of the flat place) :lol3

P1220099 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Welcome back to Argentina!!! clap
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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere
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  #4  
Old 9 Jan 2015
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Frey Bentos To Buenos Aires (Good Air)

Buenos Aires (Good Air)

Having escaped Uruguay in one piece we set camp at Rio Paranacito, again we had the place to ourselves.

IMG_4312 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

IMG_4318 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

With plenty of firewood around the caveman and cavemaness made a camp fire which was big enough to warm us with the cooling night slowly draping itself over us.

As it turned out we had gone through another timeline without taking any notice so it got dark earlier. :rofl

IMG_4336 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

A good nights sleep followed by a stunning day with sun warming us as we downed some breakfast and coffee setting us up for the 140 km easy ride but daunting traffic of Buenos Aires.:eek1 ...big cities ...and Christmas time!!!

An overhead train, they seem to like putting stuff up high when it is flat :huh

P1220119 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Sure enough getting there was easy, getting through was manic, all six lanes (each way) choca block commanding extra skills again of jamming Maya and house through the skinny arterials coupled with some stunt riding thrown in, I reckon this made the Dakar look easy :rofl.

Back track to Mexico over 2 years ago, Ellen’s crash and the small window of opportunity meeting Norbert who was looking for us and found us making an absolute game changer and helping us out, well two years on we f i n a l l y get to cross paths again and meet wonder woman otherwise known as Greti his wife.

Old pic, Ellen and I with Norbert :clap



Norbert at this time was solo on his V Strom.



We were meeting at Norberts brothers place and had been invited to spend Christmas with them so for us a chance to spend some quality time with a man we seriously look up to was outstanding.clap ...and to meet the woman who puts up with him :evil

Unfortunately the GPS coords didn’t work well but the street address did, turns out we had beaten Norbert to the finish line with them making their way into Buenos Aires from the south after being in Ushuaia.

We followed Norberts SPOT seeing exactly where they were, Manfred (Norberts bro) astounded at our ability to stalk them to within 10 minutes so a wee treat for them to see how us disfunctional travelers do it.:wink:

Norbert and Greti soldiered on with a huge day in the seat (I think 900km) arriving later evening in good spirits, a great reunion was had with enthusiastic but watery eyes.

Having been out camping and no wifi etc it was time to unravel all the gear, air and dry accordingly and to catch up on ride reports overdue.

More on Buenos Aires next, too much for this post :clap
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  #5  
Old 9 Jan 2015
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Buenos Aires

On the way into Buenos Aires we stopped in to meet the famous Javier and Sandra from Dakar Motos, seriously nice people and we had a great chat and coffee, I can't believe we did not even get a photo together WTF happened there is anyones guess.:huh .. .anyway you guys have seen all of our mugs before :evil

Manfred looking on as we stalk Norbert and Greti, Manfred quite taken by the cool side of technology

IMG_4340 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Ellena (Manfred’s wife) cooked up some Argentinian Christmas cakes …..and yes they were well and truly as good as they look.

IMG_4351 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Christmas eve arrived which was the big celebration and a piglet was on the bar b q, talk about outstanding food, we were off the hook for cooking duties but on duty for the wines and soft drinks…good times.:clap

IMG_4353 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Christmas day was relaxing affair around the corner at one of the brothers houses, they have a swimming pool …..yeah heeeer :clap

IMG_4375 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Again more food, drinks and good times.

IMG_4383 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Being Norberts old stamping ground we had a local tour then with Manfred as our main man we hit it to centro, walk -> bus -> train-> subway -> Centro, we would not have made it without local knowledge.

Our plan was to meet a couch surfer Marcela who we hosted in New Zealand 3 years ago, plans were made and we all met up, talk about cool having reuniting sessions.clap

Four trouble makers

Me, Marcela, Ellen and Manfred

IMG_4406 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

A sailing boat down at the harbour, could not believe how much rope is on this thing

IMG_4413 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

The full crew

Don Norbert, Ellen, me Marcela and Manfred, downtown BA just hangin out and being hoods :rofl

IMG_4427 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

The Dakar ramp being assembled outside the parliament building for the "fake" start for the public

IMG_4448 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

After seeing a lot of sights in centro we all headed to a local restaurant for a late lunch, again great food and good times.

IMG_4460 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Two chics :wink::wink:

IMG_4461 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

The afternoon finished off with Maya having a photoshoot with Marcela, Greti, Norbert and all…and some back rubs.

Marcela riding it hard

IMG_4479 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Suits you Greti, orange is your colour

IMG_4481 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Greti in the box seat with Norbert in tow :clap
IMG_4487 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

And the back rubs, I had to quickly snap this pic then try and get in line but I missed out :eek1

IMG_4489 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

The inevitable goodbyes, the bit we can never seem to enjoy :huh

A huge thank you to Ellena and Manfred for having us stay and the warmth and welcoming with it.

Norbert and Greti, see you in New Zealand guys, it will be our pleasure to have you stay with us and really cool catching up finally after two plus years and especially meeting Greti.

Marcela, really cool catching up after three years :clap

IMG_4494 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr
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  #6  
Old 11 Jan 2015
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Brasil Sum Up And The Heart Speaks, The Best, The Dirt And The Hurt

Brasil Sum Up And The Heart Speaks

Time to reflect over the happenings in Brasil, easy peasy cos we were only there for two weeks give or take 5 months.

What started as less than ideal got better quickly, with the warm hearts of Brasilians helping us at Ponto Pora amidst 6 degrees and rain to get our stator etc out of Paraguay.

Also Wagners workshop after buying an oil cooler for Maya and meeting lots of new faces there.

The only two motor fails we have had and both were in Brasil where KTM is literally non existent, that being our stator and waterpump.

The stator made worse by the introduction of lying Bolivianos and the water pump, no worries we had a spare on board so were prepared, was a 50000 km shaft with 60000 kms on it :clap.

60000 km, never left standing on the side of the road, one water pump, one stator I consider than to be pretty good given where we have been.

It soon got even better, the weather picked up and we soon fell into the groove, every new country there is always the butterflies and not knowing WTF you are getting in for and after Bolivia we were ready for some sanity.

Where the hell to start, I am honestly struggling to write this up as my heart wants to go back and I am having to write about saying goodbye.

When things go wrong you need to make the best of it, in most countries you will get by and get things sorted by one way or another, in Brasil it will be sorted, in style, with a bar b q, with Guarana, with more help that you ever imagined, with wide open arms from everyone who gets involved.:clap

For me, Kiwis are open and friendly but Brasilians step that up a notch, after coming from Bolivia it was almost opposite overload with people going to unreal lengths to help knowing you are a foreigner and needing that little extra help, language barriers and all, it did not matter, the funny thing is that in some cases the less we spoke the more the help was stepped up.:eek1:clap

For me, Rio De Janeiro was spectacular for a city, abrupt rock formations were outstanding, meeting Paulo was a God send and having access to Moto Buis workshop unbelievable.

It just became easier and better and we soon learnt that Brasilians are extremely warm hearted people that love meat and motos ….I like the way these guys think.:rofl

Bahia in the mid of Brasil was very nice, Chapada Diamontina still the nicest place and for me the best photo I took/have/seen etc.

My favourite picture of a place I cannot describe so you will just have to go there :clap

IMG_1401 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Lencois a beautiful wee town, slightly touristy but far enough away from the big smokes to be quiet and very nice and one I say is a must do.

Making our way back down we really hit top gear meeting the Brasil Riders, each one very interested in motos and travel and we very interested in being on the ground level with locals which changed our experience, also Brasil is wealthier in the south so to be fair our comfort level was up as well.

Every time we were moving along they would ask where we were going, if they had amigos in that town a phone call was made, directions given and we were welcomed in and accommodated, as travellers on a budget Brasil is VERY expensive so to be set up with like minded people and hosted is a double plus and bonus, this allowed us to spend money on booze and other essential items.:lol3

We reciprocated with (Ellen) making sushi, dumplings, Chinese pies and me helping out, fixing, adjusting etc to be helpful and appreciative for our hosts. The Brasilians love to drink, eat and talk travel, motos etc and love foreigners so I was as happy as a sandboy.

A highlight for us was Cascavel meeting Sandro, Marcos and crew, also Star News BMW welcoming us in knowing full well we were not buying a bike but let me take a R Nine T for a ride, sorry for slobbering over it Berto.:rofl

IMG_2171 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Non Brasil riders (normal humans) came up to us on a daily basis curious and inquisitive ALWAYS with a huge welcoming and friendliness enough to drag any resistant hermit out of his shell, we of course didn’t need any training to open up to them straight away and they thought this was well cool.

They also love stickers as I do to so Maya has a few more now, lots of places we bought stickers now we have moto clube stickers with all the destinations on them so that is cool (traded for TMK stickers:wink, they also covered up a lot of accident damage, unfortunately the don’t make structural stickers to straighten the hit and run accident.

The Heart Speaks

While we try to keep things in a positive light sometimes shit IS worth writing about, why? ... because I am a ****en Kiwi and we tell it how it ACTUALLY is with no sugar coatings and shinning white teeth pretending everything is perfect, too much for you to read about the truth then stop here and read something else, no apologies.

While we had superb times we also hit the bottom literally, we found damage done to our bike from a previous service at a reputable KTM Stealership which really pisses me off as we paid real money for bad work, from this point on I have trusted no one to do any work to Maya and I do everything, never again will I let someone else **** it up ESPECIALLY after we have paid hard earned readies for it.

The hit and run was a bastid, luckily we both stayed out of hospital, Maya not so good and the Jesses needing BIG work, their build quality being their saving grace.:clap

Only in Colonia, Uruguay we got the last of the parts to fix damage however our racks are still tortured and twisted, the grinder and welder will do well when we are home.

I spent a lot of time fixing, adjusting, straightening the damage, at first I did not realize how hard we had gone down until the following days when my body hurt quite badly, also when riding noting things not lining up so it was a case of one thing at a time to realign and fix .... Torres was the final straw.:cry

So after the mop up of the luggage, then straightening our steering, then fixing our bent bolts on the handlebars and finally hurting my finger badly trying to fix it I have decided to put this to print.

Although the finger is not directly his fault it would not have happened if we did not need to fix the damage he did.

The wanker left us on the road, this would have been the same for any of you who were there so to me I view this dimly, for all Brasil Riders who have treated us extremely well I post this as it could have been any of you and that steps it into fighting territory…he who would hurt my friends hurts me.

The driver has left us with about $3500 worth of damage in total and thanks to the Brasilian “system” will not likely get charged for hit and run, his excuse, ......he has no money so that is that.:huh

He said he is sorry (to the Poice NOT to our face), but he is not sorry enough to make good the damage or leave the keys to his car to pay for the damage…****en shallow arsehole.

To be positive about it so you guys can be aware of him and not to drag it out, the lowest for of life has been found and he is

The arseholes name: Fabio Junior Barbosa
The arsehole address: Rua Telemcao, Borba 409, Tibagi PR
The arseholes FB Page
https://www.facebook.com/fabio.barbo...4%3A1415230892
The arseholes photo.

Screen Shot 2014-11-14 at 1.17.52 PM by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

The arseholes car and rego and photo. MVB-8041

P1200222 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

The arseholes address

Screen Shot 2014-11-14 at 1.09.41 PM by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

The arsholes house

Screen Shot 2014-11-14 at 1.00.44 PM by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

If in the neighbourhood drop in and say hi or kill him or anything really painful will do.

The other trial we had was extreme heat of 45 plus degrees for days on end, we had learnt from previous experience to keep hydrated so we don’t needlessly chew each others head off and for the most of the time it worked, this still created daily stresses and our 1 and only flat tire was on one of these days, not even a shadow was cool :eek1

For me now I am enjoying Argentina after Uruguay was a bit of not a lot and my heart is still looking north to Brasil, the hard part of travelling when you fall in love with a place.

Finishing on a good note, there is SO much to see in Brasil, the distances are bigger due to the size of the place, Brasil IMO is a must do, given we were going to be there two weeks and 5 months later we left that is a fairly good indication, don’t just blow through the place, do it some justice and get into it…you will not regret it. clap

To all the normal humans who were extremely, good, nice, helpful etc thank you so much for making Brasil a great place to be, to all the Brasil Riders (abnormal aliens we can relate to), I am not sure how to put into words our gratitude for making Brasil simply OUTSTANDING, when we looked up information on the net about Brasil and moto travel it was fairly skinny, I hope now after ADVers, Hubbers, TMKers and FBers have read our ride reports that it has shed some more light into a cool country with cool people (bar 1 :evil)

For me, a picture is worth 1000 words, for me, my prize possession is my Brasil Riders good luck charm watching us as we ride from the top of our tank bag, Tailon, thanks man we ride with pride.

P1220319 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

I am not got to name everyone cos I simply can’t but a huge thanks to all, you guys rock, finally we have booked our flights home so after 3 years and two weeks travelling the Americas top to bottom we will be home on May 16th 2015, give us an hour to buy some meat, bear, wine ....our doors are open.:clap

Ouwh ... and bring some Guarana rofl
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  #7  
Old 11 Jan 2015
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Buenos Aires to La Falda ... New Years Included

Finally our time to split as we had organized to be in La Falda on the 29th, so Maya was wheeled out through the alley only as wide as the bars, cases and house fitted back on and a series of kisses, hugs, watery eyes (again ..sand in the air) and cheers goodbye.:clap

With the 790 km ride being broken into two easier days we stopped at Juarez, it was a ghost town when we arrived with the typical Argie siesta making the place silent.

Our daily ritual now being check the fuel and clean 20 or more dragonflies out of our radiator:rofl, next leg no different with thousands of dragonflies pasting themselves wall over Maya and our visors.…now I know where superglue is made.:huh

Finally through Cordoba we had hills in sight, I had to retrain myself on what to do with a corner and how to go up a hill

Arriving at La Falda was like going home, a beautiful place we had been 8 months earlier, we became friends with the people and they wanted some house sitters to look after their home and look after the four dogs while they are away for about 2 weeks. For us a welcome break, a chance to catch the Dakar and do some local rides before heading off into the deep south ibis of Ushuaia.

We had organized our stay to coincide with the 2015 Dakar so for us, Walter and Dagmar the timing could not have been better for both of us.

Maya was also due so fluid changes, so engine oil, fork oil, front and rear brakes all with new blood, easy when time and space are available.:clap

P1220318 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Bit of a mission finding DOT5.1 but I got it and Maya is all fresh again.

Walter and Dagmar who own the place run Alma Guacho tours and had two lots of German clients in nicely set up overlanders, Walter is a landcruiser nut as well and had a disk brake conversion he wanted done so I offered to do as much as I could as I luv 4x4’s as well.

New Years was in the middle of all the action, we had an excellent asasdo and good times.

IMG_4516 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

IMG_4523 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

IMG_4524 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

La Falda by night.

IMG_4535 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Helping getting Walters truck prepared, any excuse for a petrol head to pile into a pot of grease is good fun.

IMG_4576 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

The crews Ready To Race :freaky

IMG_4587 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

With 4 dogs it is like feeding time at the zoo, the zookeeper standing watch to make sure everyone gets their fair share and does not nic the other dogs tucker :lol3

IMG_4503 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Next up, Dakar, 04 th January first day at Villa Carlos Paz :clap
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Every chapter a day
Every day a journey
Refreshingly honest and compelling tales: the hights and lows of a life on the road. Solo, unsupported, budget journeys of discovery.
Authentic, engaging and evocative travel memoirs, overland, around the world and through life.
All 8 books available from the author or as eBooks and audio books



Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.




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