Mexico is dangerous! Don't go there, you will be kidnapped, held for ransom, and beheaded. The TV says so. At least that is what most of my friends and family said. My beliefs leaned toward those going to Mexico with bad intentions ended up in the news, I didn't have anything to worry about. I lied a bit to make people feel better. How I was to get from the US to Guatemala overland was never mentioned.
David, a fellow rider from Seattle, and I exchanged messages on the HUBB a few months back and decided to ride together a bit and see how it worked out. At the very least we wanted to ride through Mexico together. What better way to try it on than to ride through the Baja?
David and I leaving San Diego
Northern Baja is basically South California until some miles south of the border. Even then, it's still part of the Gringo Trail. The first day we wanted make it as far south of Tijuana as possible.
Tijuana Border Crossing
To Mexico
We crossed at about 8am on a Monday. Tijuana is a major border crossing, and even with GPS coordinates and directions written down it was chaotic. Once we found the Aduana Office, it was painless as possible. The Aduana has a huge secured parking lot and everything you need to process within the secure area. We didn't pay for helpers, in fact I didn't even notice any helpers at this border. I understand it isn't necessary to get a Vehicle Import Permit here (you an get it in La Paz), but why wait? Also, we went through Baja Bound for our Mexican Vehicle Insurance.
Ask any rider where they had the best food and the answer will always be Mexico. Unless they are lying or trying to be difficult. Now I'm no glutton, but I like food. The food in Mexico has been the highlight so far. Fresh ingredients, cooked made to order, and typically aesthetically pleasing with many different colors present.
First Tacos in Mexico
Stuffing my Face
Dinner
There were things to do on both sides of the Baja, so we planned to cross the peninsula several times. The general route for Baja Norte was Ensenada, San Felipe, Puertecitos, Bay of Gonzaga, and Coco's Corner. No one really knew what was up with Coco, but I heard so much about the place I wanted to give it a shot.
The tourist areas of Mexico were really hurting. Often times David and I would be the only visitors in town. No complaints, b/c we were able to work some pretty decent deals on accommodations. One area they kept trying to gouge us was on food. We would find a place that looked busy and then take a look at the food. If it was appealing we would ask one of the people eating how much they paid. I can't tell you how many times the person we asked would make eye contact with the proprietor, who would then give us the Gringo Price. We skipped those stands...
It was exciting to be back in a dry hot climate after following Highway 1 along the US West Coast. Some of the sandy trails leading off into the mountains just begged to be explored.
The first crossing of the Baja from the Pacific side to Sea of Cortez side was awesome. The terrain was so alien. We started down the road to the Park of 1812 and thought to camp there that night, but road soon became deep sand so we headed directly to San Felipe.
San Felipe was the first town on the Sea of Cortez side we visited. Not much was going on, again no other tourists.
The San Felipe bay was nice. I got to practice my limited Spanish on some children. They corrected me on my pronunciation and grammar.
What a fishing town be without some drunk locals? We got into a discussion as to whether Suzuki or Yamaha engines were better. I have no idea (and don't really care) but it was fun to argue.
Some beached boats.
We went south from San Felipe to the Bahia San Luis Gonzaga. The road was paved to Puertecitos and a little further past the pueblo.
To Puertecitos
Once we hit dirt/sand, the DR could really shine. At the gas station just outside the Bahia San Luis Gonzaga we met a guy from the US that was part of the Gringo community in the area. He invited us to have a few
s and crash at his place if we wanted. We gladly accepted and told him we would be there after grabbing a bit to eat at Alfonso's.
Unfortunately, the Mexican fishing authority was in town and had busted the local fisherman. The atmosphere was not festive. I'm not sure how much the fines where, but the local fisherman are not wealthy and any fine is probably a huge cut into any profit they might have.
Bahia San Luis Gonzaga from the rear of Alfonso's Restaurant.
Sunset from the front of Alfonso's Restaurant.
After dinner we drove down the beach to the people's house who invited us to crash. We shot the breeze with our hosts and drank a few
s. They are not happy about the paved road - "Good roads bring bad people". Before turning in for the night, we went for a swim in the bay. This was the first time I saw luminescent plankton! Whenever they are disturbed, say by me swimming or moving my hand through the water, they glow green. I hear that in some places they have these plankton and the waves will glow green because the crashing water disturbs them. So cool.
The last stop in Baja Norte was Coco's Corner. My hosts in Gonzaga didn't know if Coco was still alive and running Coco's Corner or not. Apparently he has been sick and spending a lot of time away.
We lucked out because Coco was still there. He is a hell of a character. The drive there was lots of loose rock and sand. People dump lots of random shit out in the desert.
Coco's Corner
Coco
Coco gave us some advice. Mostly all I remember was the advice that everyone in Santa Roselia is gay. haha. We also signed his guest book. If you get a chance, pay Coco a visit. I don't think he will be there much longer.
The Vstrom trying to keep up with the DR.
Next up, Baja South.
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