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It was a relatively hot night but not as bad as the last time we camped next to the Marañón but once again our plan was to hit the road before the sun came into full force. We were expecting the road to climb up to Bambamarca so we only had to endure the heat for a little bit. There was very little traffic, only one truck passed at dusk last night, and then we saw three in the morning while packing up.
Dry river bed turned into a road
The views from the saddle weren't too shabby
Fobulous ride
The road, I say road but it was barely a two tire track made by pick-up trucks, was still tricky as it was passing through a river bed. The view of the Marañón was spectacular. It really is a powerful river, and I enjoy taking the the time to appreciate it. About 500m down the road was a zip line transport across the river to Calemar. We saw this last night but still assumed there was a bridge further down the road since Garmin had the road crossing the river a little further down then heading for the hills. When we got to the zip line there was a bunch of pick-up trucks loading cargo and people from the zip line. What we discovered was the end of the road. All evidence suggested that we were screwed. Alberto did some asking around and yes this was the end of the road, yes that town we could see was Calemar and yes there was a path to Bambamarca and Condormarca etc. The problem was that according to the guy people walked to Bambamarca, they didn’t go by vehicle. We could see a canoe tied up on the shore in Calemar that we would be able to get the bikes in and to the other side but it didn't really sound like there was a road, and certainly no traffic was coming and going. Our map indicated a road but local knowledge suggested otherwise. We had already been turned away from reaching Bambamarca once before, finding out that the road in Bolivar was a dead end and you could only continue by horseback. We decided to cut our loses and head back the way we came, despite the tricky ride we knew we had ahead of us today.
It was getting hot, we were disappointed as this was our second attempt to reach Pataz by mountain and now we had to ride the difficult road back to civilization. Not wasting any time we set to work retracing our steps from the previous day knowing that we would take a break once we reached the waterfall that we had starting referring to as the Oasis. From what we remembered, even though yesterday was a bit of a blur, the trickiest sections were at the end, so we were going to be getting through them first.
Slow and steady was the plan, we didn't want any more accidents. The most difficult section from yesterday was a steep rocky section that was up right away. And sure enough it was just as steep and tricky today as it was yesterday. 100% focus, nice and steady, we made it up. There was a few hairy moments but everyone survived. I was sweating bullets now though due to the sun but also the intensity of the ride.
The geology in this area was very unique. Some type of porous rock
I guess it was nice to enjoy the view from a different angle, not so much so that I would have done the road again just for entertainment but it was the silver lining. We were both very thirsty since the little stream we camped next to was barely a trickle and my Geigerrig filter was not performing well. It was a lot of work to get a drink out of my pack. We were both dreaming about the Oasis and we rode further and further along the road.
Our map showed a road to Calemar, then going up to Bambamarca and south to Pataz... NOT accurate!
There were more clouds today, and therefore more shade. This was definitely welcomed. When we reached the Oasis it was in shade. We parked the bikes off the road as best we could and stripped down. We didn't even talk to each other for like 10min as we were each focused on our own things: me on getting a drink of water, and Alberto cooling himself down. We took a nice long break enjoying the waterfall and the parrots. The parrots were small but pretty, with green and red colouring. Feeling refreshed we were ready to tackle the next 3 hrs or so of road.
Agua por favor!
There was still lots of rocks, though not as steep. Slowly but surely we were making progress. Again we each had a crash, this time during the water crossings. Both were silly. Mine was while negotiating some large rocks in one of the drier crossings. I hit a rock, lost my balance, couldn't reach the ground and before I knew it I was lying on the ground. Alberto quickly rescued me and no legs got trapped. Alberto was negotiating one of the medium size water crossings when he hit a rock, got off balance and dumped his bike in the river. He was able to keep it running and I quickly was on the scene to help him pick up the bike. We got it out of the water and it was running fine; that was lucky. There was so many water crossings on this road it was like a water crossing training circuit. Pretty much every type you could imagine, big, small, shallow, deep, fast, slow; very diverse.
Drying corn
bikes were happy
Near the very end of the road there was a lady herding her donkeys but they were not very good with traffic. It was also a tricky rocky section. The donkeys kept walking and standing in front of Alberto and once you were committed you kind of had to keep your line in this terrain. The lady was throwing rocks at them trying to get them to move out of his way but instead the donkeys thought it was food and just chomped the rocks. Eventually the donkeys moved enough that we could get by. So bizarre. The road was easier than yesterday as we were able to do the harder sections first while we were fresh instead of at the end of the day when were we dehydrated and overheated. It was still a very difficult road though, and I don't think we will be back for a third go any time soon.
When we finally arrived back at the start of the road the construction people were just putting the chain up on the bridge to close the road. If we wanted to go back that way we probably would have made it, just in the nick of time. Instead we got some gas (very expensive at over 7$/G) because Alberto had hit reserve about an hour ago and had some lunch. On the menu for lunch was a bunch of water, fruit and avocado with bread. I also bought some pre-packaged dessert which turned out to be a bust. I took one bite of my mouldy brownie before I noticed it was covered in mold. I hope there are no repercussions from that mistake.
Eyeing what lies ahead
We were told it was a few hours to Aricapampa, and that the road was pretty rough. Considering that the easy sections of the road to Calemar were what I would typically call difficult on a regular day back in Canada we thought it couldn't get worse than the previous 125 kms of riding and decided to take our chances since the road back to the lake was now closed until 6pm anyway.
The road was bumpy, but it was wide and it was in fair condition. It got a bit rougher as we climbed, looking like when it rains the water just flows down the road. The corners were in the worst condition with some deep ruts in sections, again most likely from when it rains. The bumping as well was a bit excessive but I was just happy to be rekindling my relationship with 3rd gear as I had spent most of the last day and a half in first gear. I pogo sticked along at a good pace (no rear shock). There was a lot more traffic on the road resulting in some interesting moments with large trucks. For the first time ever a courteous Peruvian pickup driver yielded to us. Holy smokes.
The cute town of Chugay
The road led to the town of Chugay, which was strange as based on our map that was a town we were using to navigate our way to Calemar, we were not expecting to go through that town on this road. It was a cute little town with a particularly nice plaza. After Chugay the road was a lot smoother, though still with some speedway style corners due to washouts. The banking on some of the huge corners was so severe we figured that a moto taxi wouldn't make it around, and for the trucks they would need some serious ground clearance.
Chugay
'Dolce & Gabbana'
They like their Toros to work the land in Chugay
Higher, colder, windier
Vastly different from this morning
We had managed to climb in elevation so much that we noticed pampas grass at the side of the road. Peru is amazing like that, you can go from 35 degree dryness to altiplano in a matter of hours. For us the higher elevations and cooler temperatures are what we like. We've also found that the cooler the climate the friendlier the people. At the top of the pass the views were stunning, one of my top views of the entire trip so far. The starkness of the terrain and farm houses dotting the hills was a pleasure to witness. The population density had definitely decreased and it was getting later in the day so we started our search for a camping spot. To our surprise as we rounded a corner there was town, the town of San Juan. Just seconds before the hills seemed so remote and here we were rolling into a town (a small one).
Simple life. I like it
Small casitas in the middle of nowhere. Awesome
Preparing supper outside
Near San Juan the land got flatter and flatter
I think we were a surprising site to the residents of San Juan. Two cute little kids were staring at us pretty good. We picked up some more expensive gas, better than being stranded at the side of the road, and considered our options for camping. Based on the terrain we could see our best chance of camping was within the next 15min of road, once we started climbing again it was going to be very difficult. There was lots of road accesses, somewhat of a free-for-all, leading off to the different houses so we followed one of the roads assuming that we'd find somewhere to camp.
Fantastic camping spot!
Our hosting family's casa
Locals walk everywhere
The terrain was good for camping, we just needed to talk to one of the houses to get approval. We approached a set of three houses that had a family outside. Alberto walked over to talk to the owners. Our method to secure camping is to explain who were are and what we are doing (a couple from Canada traveling around Peru) and that we only want a place to put the tent for one night. The owner said that would be no problem and they even offered us one of the empty houses to stay in. He almost insisted that we stay in a house but Alberto assured him we had a good tent and that we would be fine if it rained (there was a thunder shower on the horizon). He set us up with a good spot and offered to share some potatoes with us for dinner. He went back to his business and we set about putting up the tent. Once the tent was up he returned and explained how surprised he was that we put the tent up so fast. He admired the tent and motos telling us he thought they were both pretty sweet. He showed us his 250cc moto, which looked pretty sweet as well. He was very nice and spoke with a very particular accent.
The views from our campsite were great
Local women and their cute children
He went back to the house and what I assume was his usual routine. We went about our usual evening business. We watched them rounding up their animals, and rotating their horses and donkeys. They had everything: chickens, sheep, pigs, cows, donkeys, horses and we even heard some cuys from the tent. In the evening the lady of the house brought us a huge serving of freshly cooked potatoes and delicious soup. The people up here are so amazing and friendly, we are truly grateful.
Supper thanks to our Campesino Family. Yummy potatoes and hot soup
Whether it was the high elevation or revenge of the brownie, or both, I did not have a good night. I had a dodgy stomach when I woke up in the morning and I didn't really get a good night's sleep. We were slow moving this morning, lounging in the cooler temperatures I suppose. Our hosts provided us with a delicious breakfast and refused to let us leave without giving us a huge sack of potatoes. The lady of the house wanted to buy our camping stove but we told her we still needed it for a few more weeks.
We were already on the shortcut, as pointed out to us yesterday while buying gas, so we decided to stay the course. Unfortunately the overnight rain moistened up the mud and it was a bit slick. We barely made it a few thousand meters down the road before my back wheel caught the edge of some mud and I went down. Thankfully due to the angle of my bike I was able to pick it up myself and we continued, a bit more cautiously.
This shortcut wasn't exactly a clear path, there was roads haphazardly leading off in different directions. The lady told us this road was in the same condition as the main road but we were starting to doubt that very much. There were some tricky sections but we were making forward progress and we thought we could see the main road. Then there was the steep section. Alberto had just finished saying to me that the line he had picked wasn't slippery when he slid and fell. Seeing that I tried to stop but found myself sliding backwards while frantically applying the brakes full force. Somehow I was able to keep my balance and thankfully I was able to angle the bike such that it stopped sliding. Once Alberto sorted himself out he came to my rescue. It was hard for him to even walk, let alone try to keep me upright. We got my bike to a stable location then decided to take a rest. Alberto then drove both bikes up the steep section to where the road was more rocks and less mud. The road was still tricky but not steep. When we eventually reached the main road the jury was out on whether or not we did save the 30min on the shortcut. Just getting up that hill took 20min.
The mudpit at the bottom and the hill we came up on. Doesn't look like much but boy... it was slick!
Almost at the top
Back on the main road
The road was busy with large cargo trucks, buses and pickup trucks. We even managed to pass and get passed by a truck carrying a brand new excavator about half a dozen times (he was VERY slow but every time we stopped for photos he’d go past us). When we reached the top, about 3900m it was foggy. The road itself was in pretty dire condition, it looked as if it had a rough rainy season. There was large puddles, massive ruts, and it was extremely bumpy. Not only was my stomach not enjoying the motocross style bumps but it also proved fatal for my rear cargo rack. I thought it had just got loose again so I asked Alberto to stop so we could take a look. What we discovered was that 2/3 of the mounting points were toast. It was barely hanging on. We used a combination of heavy duty zap straps and my Giant Loop Pronghorn tie downs to secure the rack to the subframe. This would at least keep it from slapping around and doing further damage. We intended to get it welded in Aricapampa, about an hour away.
Chain adjustment ongoing
Just a bit muddy
So we continued on the horrendous road, albeit gingerly as I didn't want to break our temporary solution for my rack. We weren't more than 15min down the road when my chain came off again (this had been an ongoing problem during the morning in the bumping conditions). I happened to be in a big rut at the time and thankfully there was no traffic at that time because the road had been very busy. I paddled my way off the road and Alberto came back to sort me out. We are crossing our fingers we can keep this chain alive for a few more weeks.
Road down to Aricapampa
Further down, the fog was gone
Back to motocross training we bounced down the road. I was taking it extremely easy not wanting to upset my rack or chain or rear shock at this point. My stomach was very unsettled with all the jostling. I cringed every time I went through a hole. For once we were one of the slowest moving vehicles on the road, slowly plodding along in first gear switching from the right side of the road to the left side of the road to find the flattest parts. While riding down the road Alberto saw a group of three kids, two out of the three stopped dead in their tracks while the other one ran like the wind to hide but Alberto told me he could see him peeking from behind the house. The animal sighting of the day was tiger piggies at the side of the road.
Finding the welder in Aricapampa was pretty easy. He had a sign and he was on the main road. He sorted us out for under $4. Next stop was some gas and refreshments. The gas lady was the nicest of the Tienda style gas we have bought so far. She was excited to see us and asked questions about our gear.
Welding! just what we needed!
Apu stripped naked
Local campesina with a rebar as a cane
Father and son sorting us out with the welding. Scary how they don't use any safety gear to do the job
We had been told that the road was better after Aricapampa (it wouldn't take much) which was counterintuitive compared to our map. We were slowly descended down the mountain range and as we got lower everything was drying out. We said goodbye to roadside eucalyptus and hello to cacti and dust. In some ways the road was better, there was less mud, still the occasional motocross section but specifically on the descent to Chagual there was dust like I have never seen before. It was 2400m in elevation but hot and dusty. It was very unexpected. The other issue was that the road was busy and the cloud of dust left by the large trucks would take minutes to clear. It was a dusty mess, so much dust that we saw a dust rainbow. The views were nice before we started the dust descent and couldn’t see anything anymore. Also trucks were extremely courteous, always helping out to let us pass or yield to us when the road was only big enough for one-way traffic.
The mountain across looked like a fun ride, was it the way to Pataz?
Somewhere down there is the Marañon River, our good old friend
Amazing Andes
Once again the Marañón river came into view; we meet again powerful river. And the closer we got to the bottom the warmer it was. Nothing like a dust bath and some sweltering heat to really top off the day. At the bottom there is a bridge and after the bridge there is a nice blue sign showing the way to Pataz and Lake Pias.
WOWZERS! the dusty road
A bit duty indeed
Almost there!
Alberto is happy to be back. 30 years later
We briefly went into Chagual to see what was up. Alberto remembers flying into that town as a child. It was hot and there wasn't much going on except some green mangoes so we decided to head for Pataz. We would either find camping or make it to the town just before dark and hope for a hotel.
Here we were, only a few hours away from the mythic Pataz. Pataz may not be on every adventure rider’s list but it is a place that Alberto remembered from his childhood. His memories included giant scorpions, scary tarantulas, orange supernaturally-sized centipedes, poisonous snakes, unsupervised pigs, ‘lost’ citadels of ancient civilizations in the jungle nearby and +48C temperatures. For the past two weeks I was being told of the scary animals I had to keep watch for when camping and taking bathroom breaks in this area. Alberto’s dad worked at the local gold mine in the early 80’s and his family (mom and siblings) spent the summer months with him in Pataz. Him and his brother would look for snakes, ‘play’ with angry rams, and slide down the mountain on locally hand-made wooden ‘Tonka’ trucks, among other unsupervised activities. What great adventures they had when they were 5 years old. All these memories were still in his mind but 30 years later he started to wonder, was all of it real? He knew he had to go back and find out. The area is not a tourist destination due to its remoteness and 'dead-end' access, but we were going to check it out.
With the sun coming down, we still had a few kms to go to reach Pataz
The day is coming to an end
At the start of the road there was a sign welcoming us to the Rio Abiseo national park (home of El Gran Pajaten). The road wasted no time messing around, it gets straight to the business of gaining 1000m of elevation. Fine by us as we were hoping for a temperature change. The road was actually quite pretty. There was lots of greenery and even a delicate waterfall that could be seen from the road. There was more traffic than we are used to coming down but for the most part people were very respectful. It was night and day compared to a few days ago when we were traveling south from Cajamarca. The road did not appear to be made of the same material as the dust bowl on the other side of the river (thankfully). The rock was light in colour, mixed with sections of deep red clay. You could see that the road had endured its fair share of landslides so there was some rougher sections, but nothing too crazy. There was not much in the way of camping though, too steep on either side, but we did not give up hope.
The road we came from earlier in the day (the dusty one)
Waterfall seen from the road
My chain fell off again, but we were racing against the sun so we just stuffed it back on and hoped for the best. I was riding it gingerly for the rest of the ride, or at least trying to. One more crash in mud for me to finish up the day as well. I lost the back again. In hindsight it was probably too dark to be wearing tinted goggles. The road leveled off and the town of Pataz came into view. At this point we gave up on camping and focused our efforts on crossing our fingers for a decent hotel. Even though Alberto used to visit this town as as child he was really young and does not remember much of the specifics. We did know it was a mining town and this became evident when we passed an underground adit at the side of the road. Also while we were stopped for a photo a pair of moto miners passed us by (two people in full UG mining PPE on a moto).
A beautiful sunset on the mountains
Right before nightfall.... PATAZ!
Just as Alberto remembered it: a small town nested on a steep mountain side
The town was a bit strange, having a locked gate at the entrance. We told the gate operator that we were looking for a hotel, so he lifted the gate and allowed us to enter the town but he was a bit reluctant.
There was only the one road and it only lasted for 4 or 5 blocks. At the end of the road was the plaza, where we parked. Alberto recognized the area, though it was different from what he remembered. While I watched the bikes he went for a walk to find a hotel. I was immediately swarmed by children, mostly young girls, asking me questions. Once we established that I was from Canada and somehow knew how to speak some Spanish the conversation eventually shifted to Justin Beiber. When Alberto returned he was able to translate a word I did not know, the verb to be mugged. Many of the children kept asking me if where I came from people got mugged. The reality of people living in a different culture. The conversation jumped around and they were excited that we came all the way from Canada. While waiting in the plaza I saw groups of UG Miners in full PPE coming and going. Yes we were in a mining town, and no I didn't see any women miners. I probably would have knocked these people’s socks off if I told them I was a Mining Engineer, and this was probably the only place people wouldn’t be turning us away because we are Mining Engineers.
There was one hotel a block from where we were but it had no secure parking. We had been told about another hotel "up top" but were unclear on how to get there. The whole town is built on a very steep incline so it creates an upper and lower town, and is best navigated on foot rather than by 2 or 4 wheels. We eventually established that it wasn't as far as we were originally told and that they had parking so we gave it a try. It was dark now and we were finished for the day. The hotel, la Rocas, was fine and we were able to park the bikes in the lobby overnight. Also since it was away from the Main Street (but still walking distance) it was quieter and felt more secure. We were satisfied. Thirty years later Alberto had returned to Pataz, and after two previously failed attempts to get here we had reached the town, albeit by the least creative route available.
Great installment - really miss Peru already! Ecuador is pretty and the cities and towns are gorgeous, people drive well here and the place is a lot cleaner, but the riding kinda sucks compared to Peru/Bolivia. All I've seen the past few days is mostly white clouds with small intervals of green forest here and there. Feels like a country where the biking is a means to arrive somewhere rather than the main event itself, as in Peru. But it's lovely to be here nonetheless but wow miss those long, lonely dirt tracks winding off into nowhere. Gotta go back to Peru someday soon!
Glad to hear you made it to Ecuador, better late than never right?
Yeah Peru will get you like that. Especially when one shares our style of riding, Peru caters to us!
We are both enjoying following your trip on ADV now, we also have this RR on ADV btw, hopefully we can keep those Peru memories alive with the rest of our RR.
Just a few tourist photos before leaving Pataz and we were on the road again. We asked about doing something with my chain in town but nobody could help us. My rear cargo rack was broken again so we zap-strapped it down and will keep an eye on it. The sun was shining and the views did not disappoint. We had more time to enjoy the view this time, so we were taking it easy. The temperature quickly rose to uncomfortable levels.
Alberto sitting in the same plaza he used to play with his siblings 30 years back
Any day in Pataz, stray dogs going up the stairs while donkeys go down
Heading down to Chagual
Aloe Avenue
Waterfall
View from waterfall. A long way down
From the saddle
Naomi and Apu
Near the bottom
We picked up some mangos in Chagual then peeled out of the there. So hot, so dusty. It was very strange that there was a water crossing on either end of the town yet everywhere else along the road there was bridges. Seems as though they need a new mayor.
The road was rocky, dusty and hot. Not exactly fun to ride, we were just trying to get it over with. And to our surprise the Marañón disappeared out of site very quickly. That will be the last we see of her. The road crossed a smaller cleaner river and then not wasting any time the road shot right up the side of the mountain. It was steep, it was rocky and it was treacherous. If riding a big bike only intermediate level and above need apply. There was traffic to keep an eye out for and most of them were flying. There was some heavy equipment out improving the road, but for us it just made it worse. Now there was big rocks still combined with 5-10 cm of loose dirt. Fun times. As always the view was nice but you couldn't spend too much time distracted from the road. The road continued to be dusty and bumpy and it was getting on my last nerve. I had had about enough more than an hour before the road was complete. My bike just bounces around like a mad man so on the motocross style road the cumulative effective is pain to me and the bouncing around makes it more difficult to control.
Up up up once more
After the bridge below, a festival of switchbacks
At the top there was a narrow section and out of nowhere about 6 buses within 5 min of each other were coming down the road. There was some hairy encounters, one where I made the bus reverse to a wider section so I could get by. I was in no mood to play games. The road had a view of lake Piaz. By northern Peru standards I would say it was a large lake but it was nothing special to us coming from BC. We are blessed with a lot of freshwater lakes in Canada so seeing lakes on a ride is pretty much just par for the course for us.
Laguna de Piaz, where Alberto used to go with his family on weekends.
These buses come around the corner at full speed... no room for two in there!
We were bumping down the road choking on dust when out of the blue we spotted a gas station, like a real nice gas station. It was the first one we'd seen since Cajamarca. We stopped to get gas and refresh ourselves. Nothing like a bottle of cold water to calm the effects of heat and dust exposure. We told the lady that this was the first gas station we'd seen since Cajamarca and she just laughed. Very friendly people who asked about where we were going etc...
A 'proper' gas station in the middle of nowhere... what mining does eh?
The road was a bit better after the gas station, but my excitement was short lived. So much bumping hurting my internal organs. It rained briefly, but unfortunately that wasn't enough to keep the dust down. My chain came off again, so we are planning to stop at the next moto mechanic we see to get that sorted. As our progress continued we entered a serious mining region. People with hard hats in pickup trucks, mining trucks on the road and mines at the side of the road. The change happened so fast, one minute we were driving through the usual towns on an average road and the next minute we were driving up through a mine site. It was pretty hectic with lots of traffic and intersections for at least 2 hours. It was madness and not too much fun to be honest.
Peru: Mining Country.
Peru is before anything and anyone.
Once we reached over 3300m my bike was really struggling on the steep roads. It was chaos with all the traffic, everyone yielding to one another and at one point I had to stop and the bike stalled. I couldn't get it going up the hill. It just didn't have enough power on the steepness. Also my air filter it probably really dirty so that was probably not helping. It was a very vulnerable position to be in not being able to move. I drove down the hill a bit where it wasn't as steep and Alberto came to my rescue to give me a push. As we climbed the hill of numbered switchbacks (20 or so), following all the large trucks, for the first time in a long time the view was worth admiring. On the horizon was a very interesting mountain range. There was still mines as well but at least the backdrop was nice. My chain came off again. It was a bit harder to get back on this time. Only twice though today, that is an improvement.
Near the summit
The views never disappoint up in the Andes
We topped out at over 4200m. At the other side of the pass there was a moto guy stopped at the side of the road. He asked if we had a pump, so we helped him out. He was expecting us to pull out a hand pump so when we busted out the electric pump he at first thought we had misunderstood him :confused but then was wowed by our gadget.
13.6 HP of happiness!
The sun was quickly going down
Time to camp
It was getting late so we were actively searching for a place to camp. Just down the road we were able to find some premium camping. It was getting dark soon though so it was a race against time to get dinner made. It's probably going to be a cold one tonight.
Have YOU ever wondered who has ridden around the world? We did too - and now here's thelist of Circumnavigators!
Check it out now, and add your information if we didn't find you.
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes.
(ONLY US RESIDENTS and currently has a limit of 60 days.)
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Every book a diary
Every chapter a day
Every day a journey
Refreshingly honest and compelling tales: the hights and lows of a life on the road. Solo, unsupported, budget journeys of discovery.
Authentic, engaging and evocative travel memoirs, overland, around the world and through life.
All 8 books availablefrom the author or as eBooks and audio books
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.