Go Back   Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB > Ride Tales, Trip Reports and Stories > Ride Tales
Ride Tales Post your ride reports for a weekend ride or around the world. Please make the first words of the title WHERE the ride is. Please do NOT just post a link to your site. For a link, see Get a Link.
Photo by Helmut Koch - Vivid autumn colors in Canada

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Helmut Koch
Vivid autumn colors in Canada



Like Tree446Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1561  
Old 7 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847

There's some cool scenery just a couple of kms outside of John O'Groats


A short hiking trail leads to Duncansby Head


Birds make their home on the cliff walls at Duncansby Head
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1562  
Old 7 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847

The Stacks of Duncanby - unusual because they're so pyramidal in shape


More traditional-looking stacks at Duncanby


Enjoying an unusually clear day at the very northern tip of Scotland!
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1563  
Old 7 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847

Brave Neda dangling her feet hundreds of feet above the waters of the North Sea

We round the top of Scotland and head west along the northern coastline. We're now about 150 miles into The 500.


Back to camping just outside the town of Thurso

What will the next 350 miles bring?
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1564  
Old 7 Apr 2017
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Germany
Posts: 22
Great pictures! I was there in 2015 with my wife and by car. I am remembering of a very friendly tire shop in Thurso, where they fixed our flat tire...
What a pity that Scotland is behind you. I would have recommended Chippy`s in Ullapool for very very yummy fish & chips.

Joerg
Reply With Quote
  #1565  
Old 13 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/353.html



If you build it they won't necessarily come.

But if you name it... And make stickers and print T-shirts... they'll show up in droves!

In 2015, the Tourism Board in Scotland came up with an idea to bring visitors to the very northern reaches of the country. Create a scenic route that shows off the best of the untamed Scottish Highlands! But to properly market it, you have to come up with a cool name, like the Tail of the Dragon, or Route 66 in the US. Perhaps the branding people got a bit too literal: "Um, we said 'like' Route 66 not 'exactly'..."



Presenting: The North Coast 500!

It's cool in the late morning when we leave our campsite in Thurso. High cloud cover obscures some of the blue skies that we have enjoyed during the last couple of days. No matter. As long as it doesn't rain, we're okay with that.


The rocky terrain is markedly different from the east coast of the NC500

It's almost as if John O'Groats is some kind of marker that separates the smooth shorelines from this more rugged landscape.
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1566  
Old 13 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847

The brush is thick and overgrown. Things seem a lot more wild here on this side of Scotland


And the road keeps twisting and turning around this marvelous playground!


Sheep are unfazed by the odd passing motorist.

Despite the marketing push, the north coast is so far from civilization, most traffic here is recreational and the UK holiday season is winding down. The route is basically brand new, so probably word hasn't gotten out yet. We don't mind. We hate crowds.
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1567  
Old 13 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847

Every now and then, we spot little crescents of sand between the rocky bays, not large enough to make a beach


The ruins of a Scottish castle high up on the hills lend to the charm of this Highland experience


But the main attraction here is the brand new ribbon of asphalt winding its way through the scenery

The passing clouds overhead colour the land with moving shapes of dark and light as we motor through Northern Scotland. We pick up a really nice rhythm accelerating and then slowing between curves like the pendulum push and pull of a snowboarder carving through turns in fresh powder.
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1568  
Old 13 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847

Carve, Neda! Carve!


Stunning views of blue lake beside the twist of tarmac that we gleefully negotiate

In the rockiest section, the road narrows down to a single track. This is not a problem as there are so few vehicles up here. Every now and then the road bulges out, like a snake that's swallowed something large, to accommodate safe passing spots for oncoming traffic.


Even the passing bulge is not nearly wide enough when a tour bus goes by in the opposite direction!
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1569  
Old 13 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847

As we get closer to Durness, we spot a larger outcropping of sand


It's a full-on beach and there are people out enjoying the blue skies when the clouds take their mid-afternoon break. Yay! Sun!


From up above the hills overlooking the beach, are those rocks up there?
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1570  
Old 13 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847

No, more livestock decorating the lambscape. She's so fluffy!!!


Life's a beach


Scottish highlands would not be complete without highland cattle!

When we were at Gino's place for dinner, he recited a Scottish poem which I can't recall. Actually, I didn't understand most of the Gaelic words, but two stood out: Heilan Coo. That's Highland Cow for those of us who don't speak Scottish.
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1571  
Old 13 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847

"If you can smell this, you're following too close"

The Heilan Coo is a special breed with a long coat to better withstand the cold of the Highland winters. Also, to be designated an official Heilan Coo, the hair has to be styled to cover the eyes in an Emo mop. I believe there is a special cattle-stylist that the farmers go to to get this look.


We found a cafe and ducked inside for lunch

I took the picture above in the cafe parking lot while sprinting to find cover inside. The smidges were out in full force. I don't understand how they find us so quickly. When we stop, there are no smidges around at all, but within 30 seconds, clouds of them descend on us.

Then I read online that smidges are attracted to two things: carbon dioxide and heat. The warmth of our motorcycle engines are basically a beacon to all the smidges in the area. Our own bikes betray us every time we stop!

While munching on a burger, I stare out the window and watch as a thick mist of smidges swarm around our motorcycles. Even from the safety of inside the cafe, my skin was beginning to crawl in dreaded anticipation. After we eat, we make sure every square inch of our skin is covered before we venture out again.

I hate smidges!


The only way to avoid smidges - keep moving. And we do. With much gusto!
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1572  
Old 13 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847

More scenic lambscape


And more Scottish ruins. I believe they build these structures brand new, then wreck them immediately to create the proper ambiance!

We are on the "back straight" of the NC500. However, the road is anything but straight! The land is starting to get fringey - rocky fingers extending out into waters of the North Sea. This strait that looks out to the Outer Hebrides is called The Minch. We were debating about whether to catch a ferry to the Outer Hebrides, but the way the ferries run, we'd either have to make a cannonball run through the islands, or wait several days between ferries if we took our time. Things are not clockwork-regular up in the North Coast.

Looking at a map, I'm reminded of the west coast of Norway, the west coast of New Zealand, and also the west coast of Ireland. I wonder why do fjords form around the west coasts all over the world?


The west coast is also called the wet coast

Just like Norway and New Zealand, the weather is typically wetter on the west coast in Scotland. Same as in Vancouver/Seattle. We pull into Ullapool as the clouds release a shower on top of our helmets. And everywhere else. Ugh!
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1573  
Old 13 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847

I don't want to camp in this. We ride around knocking on doors to find sheltered accommodations

Every place we try is either sold out or too expensive. We fall victim to NC500's marketing. It's obviously way too successful, transforming these old fishing villages into tourist hotbeds! We can't afford a place to sleep here.


So during a break in the showers, we set up camp. A rainbow overlooks Neda's progress, warning us that although it may be dry now...

Do the endpoints of rainbows signal a pot of gold in Scotland? Or just Ireland? If we go to Ireland, will it be just as wet as it is here? And will there be Irish smidges there too? Our campsite is not immune to smidge attacks and I don the requisite armor:


"F U, smidges!"
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1574  
Old 13 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847

Walking the main strip of Ullapool between rain showers


Fishing boats out by the pier in Ullapool

It starts raining again and we duck into a pub to escape the waterworks. The price of admission is a pint of Scottish ale. We buy many admission tickets waiting out the storm that's developing outside. The early evening crowd turns into the late night crowd, and the pub starts rollicking as a local musician hits the stage and starts singing traditional Scottish songs. Every now and then, the power cuts out as scheduled blackouts hit the whole of Ullapool. We all sit in darkness and listen to the act as it becomes an acoustic set. Everyone just takes it in stride.

Welcome to the Scottish Highlands!


From her setlist, I had no idea Bruce Springsteen and Tracy Chapman were Scottish!

We make fast friends with the couple that is seated at our table. Turns out they are Canadians too. The guy is here for a bagpipe convention! Lots of Scots in Canada!

The rain comes down hard outside in Ullapool. We are warm, toasty and slightly inebriated and we've got enjoyable company and good music inside this pub on the wet coast in Scotland. I don't want to go outside into our cold and soggy tent.

So I buy another admission ticket.
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
  #1575  
Old 13 Apr 2017
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No Fixed Address (formerly Toronto)
Posts: 1,847
Quote:
Originally Posted by alper View Post
What a pity that Scotland is behind you. I would have recommended Chippy`s in Ullapool for very very yummy fish & chips.
Hey Joerg! Although we didn't make it to Chippy's when we were in Ullapool, but we did find a great place for Haggis and Nachos!
__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
cuba, rtw, visit


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 64 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 64 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


 
 

Announcements

Thinking about traveling? Not sure about the whole thing? Watch the HU Achievable Dream Video Trailers and then get ALL the information you need to get inspired and learn how to travel anywhere in the world!

Have YOU ever wondered who has ridden around the world? We did too - and now here's the list of Circumnavigators!
Check it out now
, and add your information if we didn't find you.

Next HU Eventscalendar

ALL Dates subject to change.

2024:

  • California: April 18-21
  • Virginia: April 25-28
  • Germany Summer: May 9-12
  • Québec: May 17-19
  • Bulgaria Mini: July 5-7
  • CanWest: July 11-14
  • Switzerland: August 15-18
  • Ecuador: August 23-25
  • Romania: August 30-Sept 1
  • Austria: September 12-15
  • France: September 20-22
  • Germany Autumn: Oct 31-Nov 3

2025:

  • Queensland is back! May 2-4 2025!
  • CanWest: July 10-13 2025
  • France: September 19-21 2025

Add yourself to the Updates List for each event!

Questions about an event? Ask here

HUBBUK: info

See all event details

 
World's most listened to Adventure Motorbike Show!
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...

Adventurous Bikers – We've got all your Hygiene & Protection needs SORTED! Powdered Hair & Body Wash, Moisturising Cream Insect Repellent, and Moisturising Cream Sunscreen SPF50. ESSENTIAL | CONVENIENT | FUNCTIONAL.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)



Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.

Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.

Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!


 

What others say about HU...

"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia

"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK

"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia

"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada

"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa

"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia

"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany

Lots more comments here!



Five books by Graham Field!

Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook

"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.



Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 19:32.