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Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

The only impossible journey
is the one
you never begin

25 years of HU Events


Destination ANYWHERE...
Adventure EVERYWHERE!



Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



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  #1  
Old 2 Aug 2017
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Here the road goes to dirt and rises to the pass at 4655 m.

Tajik Pamir-223 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

On the down side of the summit the road gets pretty bad. The washboard is horrible and bone shattering. It was so bad Trevor’s mirror actually broke off while he was riding.

Tajik Pamir-224 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-225 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

In fact cars have left the road and created a side road which though muddy in spots is much smoother. There is some deeper gravel to contend with too.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride

Last edited by saralou; 4 Aug 2017 at 13:37.
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  #2  
Old 4 Aug 2017
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A little slide show of the Pamir and Wakhan Valley.


Video link as I can not get the HU embed button to work.
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Last edited by saralou; 4 Aug 2017 at 12:34.
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  #3  
Old 4 Aug 2017
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We are headed to the border and no civilization in sight. There is then a section of paved road for about 20 km and a few far scattered homes and yurts. This fence is marking the deputed zone with China and it goes on forever.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-226 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-228 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-229 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-230 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-232 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #4  
Old 4 Aug 2017
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The pavement ends again before the road rises up to the second pass and the washboard combined with the gale force winds made for a challenge for about 10 km.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-233 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Finally the road heads up again and the mud surface is smoother and firm.

Tajik Pamir by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #5  
Old 4 Aug 2017
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The approach to the Tajikistan border is huge mud ruts from trucks. It would be a nightmare here in the rain. You stop at the first gate and hand your customs declaration to the agent and then “you can go”. We figured we needed an exit passport stamp so we kept going past the construction site to a small office to get it. Then they raise the gate to “no man’s land”.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #6  
Old 4 Aug 2017
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The road here is hard packed mud and rises to the next summit at 4285 M. It is very windy here as well.

Tajik Kyrgy Border by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #7  
Old 4 Aug 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saralou View Post

On the down side of the summit the road gets pretty bad. The washboard is horrible and bone shattering. It was so bad Trevor’s mirror actually broke off while he was riding.
Does that count as a breakdown for the Honda?
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  #8  
Old 4 Aug 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rondelli View Post
Does that count as a breakdown for the Honda?

Damn Honda Quality it will probably be the only one. They were cheap Chinese after market mirrors!!
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  #9  
Old 4 Aug 2017
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The clay/mud road is firm if a bit rough. There are a number of switchback as well. You go about 20 km to the next border for Krygyzstan. We saw about 15 bikes on a Polish tour headed up the hill at 330 pm. Not sure where they expect to get to this late in the day.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #10  
Old 4 Aug 2017
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Here you stop at passport control and the agent asks for your passport and registration. Very friendly and professional. After this you go 200 m to customs. Here they want the same info and 10$ for customs clearance. Krygyzstan , Kazakstan, and Russia are a customs zone and we are now cleared for all 3 and we have 2 months.

The road from the border is paved is a bit pot holed and we have just 25 km to Sary-Tash. Some kids had blocked the road with donkeys and clearly wanted a toll to pass, but there were one donkey short of a barricade.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_ by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #11  
Old 4 Aug 2017
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We rolled into the “town” at about 5 and there arrived to the one hotel in the GPS.

Kyrgy_-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Kyrgy_-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Hotel is a loose term it is one room with a dais and you supply your own bedding. There is an outhouse and no shower. While Trevor was inside checking it out a couple walked up and asked if he was travelling with Dan and Sara! This is Graham and Katrina Perkins who we have been following as they came west across Asia on their Africa twin. There had seen the bikes come into town from their hostel nearby.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We were not keen on either of these 2 options. A guy rolled up in a car and said he was a tour operator and had a house for rent. We followed him out of town, across a cow field to a house with no running water, an outhouse and a single room again. Ah NO.

We then wound our way father thru the fields and the village back roads to the main highway where we had seen a restaurant and hotel. Very nice family. There had room with no beds, but they sleep on several layers of mats and gave us pillows and duvets. There is of course only outhouses, but they have running water. The owner is the chef and his wife the manager and she speaks English. She arranged for me to have a shower at a friends house about 150 m away. This was a hot steamy tiled room with a cement floor and a drain. There is a huge boiler at one side and a barrel of cold water to mix in for the best pour over shower ever! The price was right too. 15$ each for room, dinner, and breakfast. They also had wifi at least to check in after 4 days off line.

Kyrgy_-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
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  #12  
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The total SPOT of the Pamir and Wakhan Valley route! The dots are 15 minute intervals!

Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 16.51.12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride

Last edited by saralou; 5 Aug 2017 at 11:07.
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