Day 4: Jerico to Salamina via Tamesis, La Pintada and Aguadas

After a bit of a restless night on a rock hard mattress I saddled up and went along my merry way. From Jerico straight south to Tamesis (narrow and twisty dirt road but easy to handle), then east to La Pintada (mostly good pavement with lots of good gnarliness) to join back with Ruta 25. Then almost immediately east towards Aguadas on what starts out as a bumpy dirt road for the first 15 - 20 Kms then turns into a motorcycle dream road with sudden sections of 100 to 200 metres of narrow dirt thrown in to keep you on your toes. From Aguadas south to Salamina and a long stretch of windy, narrow but good dirt road.


Today's Route ...Yes the time and distance on Google Maps is fairly accurate.



I asked the hotel manager about the road south to Tamesis and she assured me it was in great condition even though it was "destapada" (unsealed). So off I went onto a narrow little bumpy road, slipping my clutch while following a painfully slow delivery truck. A short and narrow opportunity presented itself and I opened the throttle while beeping my horn. The truck driver kindly obliged and made room for me to pass.

I was now on a lovely road reminiscent of some of our lesser used forest service roads back home. Since I was at an elevation of over 2000 metres there were pine trees and I felt like I had returned back home to British Columbia. Within a short span two mid sized cube vans flew at me in the opposite direction but we all came out unscathed.


Someone's Little Finca along the way.




I came to a junction and pulled over for a rest and a few good shots. This is when my run in with the police happened.

As I stood there beside my bike I saw a green police motorcycle with two men approaching from the south. They pulled up in front of me and they started asking me about two white trucks and where they were headed. I explained that I saw them further north and they conceded that it was out of their jurisdiction and that yes, they were looking for them.





They kept me there for at least 15 minutes while the one who seemed in charge insisted on telling me how fortunate they are not to have to carry large rifles anymore. How they are the tourist police and here for my safety. That they are developing tourism in the area and telling me about protected areas nearby with at least 250 species of birds and how Caldas Department was such a great place. I had to seize on an opportunity quickly to tell them how much of a pleasure it was to have met them so I could extricate myself from this highly volatile and dangerous situation, but not before they agreed to have their picture taken.

After Tamesis the road turned to very nice and curvy pavement and I let her rip, reaching a dizzying 60Km/h at times. Now I'm losing altitude rapidly and heading back down the the Rio Cauca where it's hot and dry. It's time for some lunch. I spotted a "truck stop" as evidenced by some trucks pulled up alongside and I ordered something which I didn't quite understand. In the end it cost me about COP 8000 for the meal including a bottle of water.


Truck Stop Lunch



I had the option of staying on the paved and hot Ruta 25 south and then climb up the dirt road via La Merced to Salamina OR head straight east to Aguadas and on to Salamina on what I anticipated would be all dirt. I went for option #2.

Off I clattered on a bumpy dirt road in the heat as I followed a tributary river to the Rio Cauca. Soon I started climbing and I had now resigned myself to a slow and dusty ride all the way. After about 15Km the dirt road turned into a narrow, beautifully paved (relatively new looking) and twisty road that usually only appears in a biker's wildest dreams. I cracked open the throttle and felt the wind on my body at an exhilarating 50Km/h.

Suddenly, around a corner, the asphalt ended and turned into a narrow and bumpy affair ....for about 100 metres... before the dream road resumed. This went on, with sections of 100 to 200 metres of "missing" asphalt until I got to Aguadas.

From there the road is definitely a long stretch of narrow and winding dirt where car drivers kindly move over to let you pass.

Salamina



Casa Las Marias had been recommended the night before in Jerico by a Dutch couple so that's where I stayed for COP 50,000. The bike went to a secured parking lot nearby for another COP 4,000. Had a "gourmet" meal, including a Colombian craft for COP 16,000 and went to bed.

View from the hotel