Some Good Road, Some Bad Roads, and a Camel?

And it was a good day. A really good day. Maybe it was the full night’s sleep with AC, or maybe it was just one of those days where everything seemed to work out. Either way, I was up early, packed up, fueled up, and on the road before the heat got too ridiculous.

Smooth Sailing… at First
Leaving Marquelia, Highway 200 was fantastic, some straights, gentle curves, smooth pavement. One of those stretches where you can just ride and let the bike do its thing. No dodging trucks (Sunday AM), still lots of topes, no random road hazards, just a proper, enjoyable ride.

Stopped in Cuajinicuilapa for a quick morning coffee. Small town, busy streets, Sunday morning church crowd mixing in with the locals out selling their goods. Sat on the curb in the shade by the bike, and this was one of those moments where I really wished I could speak Spanish, not a few words and charades. Everyone had something to say, and while we mostly just smiled and scraped by with broken conversation, the vibe was fantastic.

The area the town is in is supposed to be a more poorer part of Mexico, but the people seemed happy, chatty, and genuinely friendly. Funny how that works.

Welcome to Oaxaca
Not long after, I hit the Welcome to Oaxaca sign, and that’s when things changed. Drastically. The nice road? Gone. Instead, I was introduced to pothole roulette. It started with rough pavement, then chunks of missing road, then sections of dirt for a few hundred feet, then full-blown craters swallowing half the lane. And no warning signs, no cones, just a test of how well you pay attention.

Some sections had sheer drop-offs where part of the road had just disappeared, with a hope you see it in time. At one point, I hit a curve where the shade from the trees played tricks on the road surface, shadow, light, shadow, light. Couldn’t see a damn thing in the pavement, just had to try really hard to ensure there wasn't a rim bending pothole laying in wait for me. The road did get better, and I think fairly quickly.

Oh, on one hydration break, I saw a camel in a field with a horse. Is there a lot of camels in Mexico?

Puerto Escondido – A Rockin Beach Town
Rolled into Puerto Escondido, and as usual, the hotel I had pre-picked wasn’t great. Was up on a hill, far from everything, overpriced, and the beach access turned out to be a rocky climb. Not what I had in mind.

So I scrapped that plan and rode back toward the entrance to Bahía Principal (Main Beach). And that’s when I saw it, a hotel entrance right on the beach. Pulled up, assumed it would either be booked solid or way too expensive, but went in anyway. And boom, room available, AC, and beachfront. Hotel Las Palmas @ $1100 pesos. Perfect. Except for one catch: at 5 PM sharp, the whole street turns into a pedestrian market. No vehicles in, no vehicles out. I can walk out, but the bike stays put until morning. I'm good, will be on foot anyways. Though it may be a bit loud tonight.

Playa Principal – The Local Hangout
Before the market madness, I took a long walk along the beach. This is not some empty postcard beach, this is where real life happens. The shoreline is packed with fishing boats, many still sitting in the sand.

And people, families filled the water, kids playing, groups gathered under umbrellas. Sunday meant everyone was out. Mostly Mexican families, no all-inclusive resort scene, just locals enjoying the water, hanging out in the sun, and filling up the beachside restaurants. In all fairness, there was a good sprinkling of gringos also. I kept walking and eventually got past the busiest stretch, finding a quieter section. Just the ocean, the sand, and space to take it all in.

A Proper Meal at Restaurant Armando’s
After a splash, I hit the street. Sure enough, right on time, the vendors started rolling in, setting up stalls, and turning the street into a full-blown night market. People everywhere, stalls selling everything you can imagine, music, street food, and this buzzing, chaotic energy. Unreal scene. Wandered a bit, then decided it was time for real food.

And I found Restaurant Armando’s, and wow, solid choice. Looked over the menu, ordered a fish steak, and the waiter was one of those guys who just made the experience better, explaining everything, well best he could, having fun with it.

Before my meal even came, he dropped off what he called a tuna salad, but really it was this plate of sliced fresh tuna covered in spices. Absolutely unreal. Then the main course, a massive fish steak, rice, and veggies. No idea what kind of fish it was (tried to find out, didn’t quite get a clear answer), but it was fantastic. Maybe a fish expert in the crowd knows. And I saw someone else order shrimp tacos, and they looked just as insane. Definitely a place worth coming back to.

Checked Out the Area
After dinner, I checked out more of the market, then climbed the endless stairs leading up from the beach to the main road. Found a church at the top, nothing like the big cathedrals from further north, just a simple, modern-style worship space with normal bricks and mortar. I'm not sure, but seems like that’s been the trend as I move further south, less of the ornate stone cathedrals, more practical, stucco-painted churches. Even the insides are toned down and hardly as elaborate. Still cool to see the differences from area to area. And it's not like I scour every street or investigate it, maybe there is an ornate church here and I'm just not stumbling on them.

Good Day Indeed
Yeah, today was a solid day. Great ride, the roads are just all part of the adventure, great beach, great food. Puerto Escondido is busy, but it’s got a good vibe. Tomorrow? No clue yet. Maybe stay another day, maybe push on.

Either way, this was a good stop and it is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

A Day Off the Bike, but Not Off the Adventure

Covered a lot of ground but didn’t ride anywhere. Spent the day in Puerto Escondido. And a fantastic day it was.
Got up not overly early, but got mobile reasonably quick. I think I had already decided last night that I was staying another day—just felt right. Woke up, had a coffee, got some personal life maintenance done, checked over the bike (everything intact), lubed the chain—motorcycle stuff.
Then it was time to explore.

A Bustling Mexican Town
Puerto Escondido is busy. Little town? Okay, maybe not little, but definitely a happening place. Traffic everywhere, people all over, shops upon shops—it’s got an energy to it.
Made my way to the Mercado Municipal, the public market. And this place is huge. Absolutely massive. We’ve talked about cramped markets before, but this one has big, spacious aisles, clearly defined sections—meat in one area (if you need a whole cow’s head, they’ve got you covered), seafood in another, chicken in its own section. The same goes for baked goods, clothing, electronics—everything has its place. Very defined among the hustle and seeming chaos.
A lot of the market is dedicated to food—there’s an actual food court, plus endless little eateries. And across the street? Even more street vendors selling seafood and chicken, just like in the market. The streets surrounding it are lined with shops, especially along Oaxaca Street. It’s just commerce, everywhere.
As Kiko mentioned, today was Benito Juárez Day, an official holiday, but most shops were still open. At the bigger intersections, Marines and police were directing traffic—whistles, hand signals, the whole bit. Otherwise, it would be chaos trying to cross the road. Definitely a lively place.

The Devil’s Church – ???
While wandering around town, I ended up at one of the weirdest churches I’ve ever seen—the Catedral de Puerto Escondido, also known as the “Devil’s Church.”
I googled it and it’s part of the Roman Catholic Diocese and built in 2003, but this place doesn’t look like any other cathedral I’ve come across. The design is wild—a mix of Gothic, modern, and something that almost feels unfinished or abandoned in parts. Some say it’s eerie, some say it’s fascinating.
The nickname “Devil’s Church” comes from local rumors and legends, though nothing official. Just one of those places that makes you go hmmm…
I took plenty of pics. Just really different from the typical churches and cathedrals in Mexico I have seen so far.

Lots of Tourists (I Believe) - Smattering of Gringos
I expected more tourists (other than Mexican), but while I saw a fair number, Puerto Escondido doesn’t feel overrun. Wandering all day, I maybe saw a few dozen gringos, tops. Nothing like Zihuatanejo or Puerto Vallarta. But the word is out—people are hyping this place up as a year-round worldwide destination. Whether it’s actually the next “it” spot or just marketing hype, I’m not sure. But it’s definitely getting its share of the marketing budget.

Beach Walks & A Surprise Ocean Trail
Took another walk along Playa Principal, and today was much quieter than yesterday. Still busy, but nothing like the wall-to-wall crowd on Sunday. Just a steady flow of families, friends, and beachgoers enjoying the sun.
Then I found something unexpected.
At the far end of the beach, there’s this rocky jetty with a big marlin statue, and I spotted a set of stairs leading up into the rocks. Followed them and discovered what was once a grand coastal walkway, winding along the ocean—man-made, cemented with concrete and stone, and carved into the cliffs.
At one time, this was a real scenic path, complete with lights and well-maintained walkways. Now? Pretty rough shape—parts crumbling, handrails missing, and a few sketchy drop-offs straight into the water. But still, absolutely unreal. Winding stairs, little bridges, and breathtaking views the whole way.
Of course, I was in flip-flops, which made it even more of an adventure. Distance-wise, it’s probably only a quarter to half a mile, but with all the twists and turns, it felt longer. Definitely deserves its own mini post with pictures—it was that cool.

Men at Work - Fishermen to be Exact
After the cliff walk, I did another beach stroll and got caught up watching the fishing crews in action.
These guys are working—boats getting prepped, engine work and oil changes happening right there on the sand. No marinas, no hoists—just men flipping boats on their sides, scraping barnacles off, and slapping on fresh paint.
And the fueling process? They swim the fuel out. Big 10- to 20-gallon square tubs of fuel, carried out to the boats by hand. Some guys take them in small dinghies, but I saw one guy straight-up swimming with a half-full container. That’s next-level dedication.
And then there’s the launching—old-school rollers like something straight out of an Egyptian pyramid-building documentary. Logs laid down, boats rolled over them, pure grunt work. No boat ramps here—just teamwork and muscle.

Dinner – Back for Those Shrimp Tacos
After all that? Back to Restaurant Armando’s.
Yeah, I know. Two nights in a row. But those spicy tuna bruschetta things? Unreal. And I had my eye on those shrimp tacos from last night.
And let me tell you—if you don’t fall in love with these tacos just from the pictures, there’s something seriously wrong. Messy as hell, stuff dripping everywhere, but one of the best meals of the trip.
After dinner, took a final wander through the night market, then called it a day.

Hotel Observations – There Are Options
For anyone coming here, there are a ton of hotels—beachfront like mine, but also plenty off the beach, likely cheaper.
If you don’t need to be close to the water or ocean views, check out places further up the hill—saw some decent ones along Oaxaca Street, like Hotel Garasol and Hotel San Sebastián, both had parking spots. Probably in the 400-600 peso range. I believe worth looking into.

Tomorrow – The Road Calls
Tomorrow, I’m back on the move. No clue exactly where, Oaxaca City or maybe continuing down the coast. Might add a couple of days, but who’s counting? Not me.!!
I know my planning needs some work.!!

and I wasn't sure if I would go to Oaxaca, what was I thinking.!!!

Rode up to Oaxaca from Puerto Escondido on the big road today—kinda superhighway. Not sure if it was the best call, but it’s what I took, and it got me here fast. There were some construction delays, about 30 minutes or so lost to waiting, then getting rerouted onto these sketchy handmade detours that ran through the mountains where they were building.

It’s almost like they’re doing a mix of building new lanes and repairing old stuff. Either way, it was fine. Paid the toll, cruised into Oaxaca, and still made it in well before noon.

First impressions? Oaxaca is different. Not in a bad way, just… something about it just different. In Guadalajara, traffic had a certain chaotic rhythm, but here? It felt more aggressive, packed, see a spot go for it, bully your way in, and then you find that you need to be a bit like that yourself. Oh, and honest-to-god horn-happy. Not at me, I swear, (ok maybe once..haha) but no one here is afraid to lay on the horn. Just a different energy.

Casa Cantera – The Hotel Score
Thought I had picked a good hotel, and for once, I actually did. Casa Centro—right downtown, modern as hell, only two years old, feels like a sleek chain hotel in the big city. 1,500 pesos a night (a bit up there for my budget), but secure parking, good location, and just a solid choice all around.

The City Itself – Wow..!!
After checking in, I cleaned up and went out to explore. Oaxaca feels different. Maybe a little more traditional, maybe it’s the international mix of tourists, maybe it’s the architecture. Either way, it’s got a crazy vibe—every street looks like a postcard, every corner has a photo op.

Street vendors, panhandlers, polished coffee shops, high-end retail, people napping on the curb, little old ladies braiding string using there toes for an anchor—all mashed together into one buzzing, colorful, loud, and lively city. Music everywhere—whether it’s street musicians, hawkers playing something I can’t name, or just random tunes coming from somewhere.

And then, out of nowhere—BOOM. Massive stone walls, towering up along the street. And before I even knew what I was looking at, Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán was right in front of me.

Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán – This Place Is Massive
This church is ginormous. Just standing there, staring at it, you already know this isn’t a quick photo-and-go stop. Like the churches I have been getting used to.

The cathedral itself was closed at the time, but the attached museum was open. And that’s where I made my first mistake of the day. I thought this was gonna be a quick walk-through. Nope.

The museum covers everything about Oaxacan culture—artifacts from Monte Albán, Zapotec and Mixtec treasures, Spanish colonial history, church artifacts, everything.

It was just truly nonstop amazing. I could easily fill this entire ride report with just photos from this one museum. And the entry fee? 100 pesos. Absolutely insane for what’s inside.

And that was just one cathedral.

Benito Juárez Market – Bigger, Busier, and Packed Tight
From there, I hit the Mercado Benito Juárez—Oaxaca’s big public market. Same, same… but bigger.

Packed tighter than Puerto Escondido’s market, but with more of everything. And again, different vibe. Different mix of people. Lots of international tourists here, don't get me wrong it is a Mexican market. The usual organized chaos—meats in one area, seafood in another, everything grouped together, but just on a bigger scale.

It might not have been as cool as Mazatlán’s market, but it’s a close second. Definitely worth getting lost in for a while.

Zócalo de Oaxaca – More Churches, More Overload
Next stop—the Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución). And another mind-blowing cathedral. This city just doesn’t stop with the insane churches. This one had no museum, but the architecture alone was unreal.

Again—too many pictures. WAY too many pictures. Then I hit the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, and same story—just unreal.

At this point, I was starting to question my ability to take in any more of this. Museum was closed (maybe a good thing, because I was already drowning in history and pictures), but the basilica itself? Absolutely breathtaking.

A Proper Café Moment in the Zócalo
Finally, a little worn, I walked back through the Plaza de la Constitución and stumbled across a café straight out of a French movie but in Mexico.

Cloth tablecloths, full-on polished waiters, the kind of place where Bob the Biker guy doesn’t usually end up.

The guy tried selling me on Happy Hour cocktails (no thanks), then pointed me to the 180-peso special—vegetable soup, pork in chile sauce, veggies, and dessert.

Sold. Service was top-notch, food was fantastic, and they even loaned me a phone charger while I ate. I am liking this Oaxaca place.

Final Surprise – Santo Domingo at Night
As I was heading back, I passed by Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán again. And this time? The cathedral was open.

I stepped inside and—just wow. I thought I was impressed earlier, but the interior of this place is something else entirely.

The gold leaf detail, the altars, the massive ceilings—this place was built to amazing detail and it overwhelms.

Done , done..
Finally, back to the hotel, exhausted. The gates were locked up for the night, but the front desk guy let me in and explained that they’ve got tea and coffee available all night, plus a breakfast setup in the morning.

Not sure what’s on the agenda for tomorrow yet, but I know I’ve barely scratched the surface of Oaxaca. I already know I’ll need more time.

Ruins, Magic, and Too Many Pictures (Again)
Got up, did a couple of calls—keeping life in order—then geared up and took the bike out to Monte Albán to see the ancient Zapotec ruins.

Monte Albán – A Civilization in the Sky
The ride up was a blast. Twisty road, good pavement, and a fun little climb. Parking was easy, entry was 100 pesos, and they’ve got everything—restaurant, museum, bathrooms. But none of that prepares you for the sheer size of this place.
Monte Albán is massive. I’m talking huge. The main plaza stretches forever, surrounded by pyramids, terraces, and ball courts. And it sits on a mountaintop, so the views are ridiculous.
Hard to wrap your head around how much work went into building all this. The stonework, the scale—it’s insane. There are signs everywhere in multiple languages, including English, so you actually know what you’re looking at.
And yes, big international crowd here—school groups, bus tours, people from all over the world. But the site is so spread out that it never felt packed. Spent hours just wandering, taking it all in. And yes, took way too many pictures.

Atzompa – The Forgotten Ruins
After Monte Albán, I set out to find Atzompa—a smaller, less-visited site. And let’s just say navigation was not my strong suit today. Got lost twice, ended up on random dirt roads, weaved through small villages, and had a few “am you even supposed to be here looks?” moments before finally finding it.
Atzompa is much less polished and worked on than Monte Albán. It’s not as well-preserved, but the ruins are still incredible. The place was empty. Literally. One lone guard at the entrance, he had to open the gates for me. So not a single other visitor. Felt like I had my own private archaeological site.
From what I gathered, Atzompa was originally settled before Monte Albán took over as the main center. Spent maybe an hour and a half wandering around before heading back down. I haven't seen many sites like these, but these were pretty impressive..!!

The Chaos of Oaxaca Traffic
Riding back into town was another round of Oaxaca Road Race 2000. If there’s a gap, someone’s taking it—buses included. And if you want a spot, you better be aggressive. The city moves fast, and the horn game is strong, yep they were blowing at me. But somehow, it all works.

Oaxaca’s Magic Factor
Back at the hotel, I found myself sharing a thought with the woman at the front desk—an effortlessly charming presence who spoke exceptional English. I told her that this city felt different, though I couldn’t quite put my finger on why. She listened with a knowing smile, one that made her even more captivating, and then, in the most genuine and heartfelt way, she simply said, “Oaxaca is magical.”
She wasn’t referring to the official Pueblo Mágico designation, but something deeper—an energy, a character, a soul. And standing there, caught in the warmth of her smile and the truth in her words, I couldn’t have agreed more. You don’t just see Oaxaca’s magic—you feel it.

Food – Mole Done Right
Had lunch at the restaurant at Monte Albán—Chicken Mole Negro with rice. No complaints. That meant dinner was just street tacos—quick, simple, no pictures this time.

Evening Walk – Dance, Street Art, and More Churches
Wandered the streets in the evening, snapping pictures of street art, checking out random shops, and taking in the energy of the place. I did look over and saw some shops with really cool arches , the next block over so I went to check it out, when I really got a look at it I realized it was an aquaduct.!! This place never stops with the surprises . Then came across what looked like a dance class practicing traditional Mexican moves, and later, a full-on dance event in the main square. A dozen or more couples, DJ music, an announcer keeping it all flowing.
And the streets? Packed. One of the churches I passed yesterday had its doors open, so I snapped some pics of the inside. Every single corner of this city feels like a photo waiting to happen.

Wrapping Up – Road Time Tomorrow
Tomorrow, I believe back on the move. Oaxaca has been incredible, but the adventure calls.

And since I took way too many pictures again, I put together another YouTube video for those who want to see them all. One with the day(short) and one for Monte Albán(long).

Epic Road, Wild Winds, and a Whole Lotta Darkness
Yes one month on the road and as I’m writing this, I’m sitting in the absolute dark. My room, the complex, the courtyard—everything’s out. From what I can tell, much of this part of town is dark. Massive power outage. Plunking away here in the dark, but I’ll circle back to the hotel situation later.

Leaving Oaxaca – One Last Cool Morning
Got up early, packed the bike while it was still cool, then headed out of Oaxaca. Quick stop for fuel and a bit of chain-lube and bike check, then I was on the road to Salina Cruz. I briefly thought about taking the 190D toll road—faster, smoother, fewer topes—but something told me to stick with the old road. What’s an extra hour or two when you’re out here to ride and see the country?

Highway 190 – One of the Best Roads Yet
I’ve been on some epic roads—Cassiar Highway in Canada, Route 666 in Arizona, Tail of the Dragon, etc. They all have their own cool factor, but this stretch of Highway 190 from Oaxaca to Tehuantepec? It’s right up there. And let’s be honest, the others don’t have mezcal production around every corner.
This road had everything: desert landscapes, mountain climbs, cliffside views, agave fields, cactus jungles, pine forests—and more agave fields. Tight twisties, big looping curves, endless hairpins—some so long you start wondering if you’ve just done a full circle.
Towns were few and far between, which only added to the fun. There was some big truck traffic, but it wasn’t hard to work around. Traffic overall was light—surprisingly so for a road this epic. It’s about 240 km (150 miles) of pure moto-joy.
Yes, there were some potholes—but just enough to keep you honest. The whole thing felt like a perfectly tuned workout on two wheels. Demanding enough to keep you locked in, but not punishing. If you wanted to take in the scenery, you had to roll off the throttle and just coast for a bit. Not many pull-offs or formal viewpoints, but the road was quiet enough that if you wanted to stop, you could easily find a clear stretch and edge over. I didn’t. I was just enjoying the ride too much.

And for the record in case anyone’s wondering—I’m not a knee-dragging, peg-scraping twisty thrasher. I’m more of a “brisk cruise with a grin under the helmet” kind of rider. The important part? I’m not trying to be anything I’m not. I’m having fun. And that’s more than enough.

The Winds of Tehuantepec – No Joke
As I dropped into the Tehuantepec region, the temperature started climbing—hit 37 or 38°C at one point. Still bearable, but hot. I thought about stopping in Tehuantepec but figured I’d push on to Salina Cruz—just 10 miles further, with more hotel options.
Now, about those famous Tehuantepec winds.
I’d read about them before—in the book 438 Days by Jonathan Franklin. It’s the story of Salvador Alvarenga, a fisherman who drifted across the Pacific for yes, 438 days after being caught in these exact winds. It is a good read and insight into his mindset. Oh. and the winds, yeah, they’re real. As I got close to Salina Cruz, the wind was hitting hard—like 40 to 50 mph gusts. Coming around a curve, the wind would stand you straight up. At stoplights, it felt like the bike could blow over.

Landing in Salina Cruz – Big Town Vibes
Salina Cruz is bigger than I expected. Full-size city. Walmart, Office Depot, major shopping centers, fast food chains, you name it. Drove through the entire town before finding my hotel—Mission San José, much closer to the water.
Nice spot. Big courtyard, decent pool, parking across the street (not 100% convinced about security, but looks okay). Room is over the top—very modern. Price was 1,200 pesos, which is higher than the strike zone, but I was beat. The room’s worth it.

Exploring Salina Cruz – Wind, Sand, and Not Much Else
Went for a walk after settling in. There’s not a ton to explore. Part of town feels pretty modern, when you roll in and see the shopping areas. Down by the water, it’s a transport hub —this is a naval port, rail stop and I think big military naval presence.
I made it over to the Malecón. It’s not a blow-your-mind waterfront, but it’s nice. The beach itself is beautiful—long stretch of sand, crashing waves—but with the wind, sand was flying everywhere. Still, got some great photos and a good walk in.
The town overall feels a bit “workaday.” Didn’t see a true plaza or central square—maybe I missed it. Just felt more industrial and modern than the typical Mexican town vibe.
Why am I here, well it's the way I have chosen to start going east so coming down to here from Oaxaca was a necessity.

Food was a simple quesadilla not worth mentioning or a pic ..

Wrapping Up – Power Out, Power On
Good news—power eventually came back on. AC, lights, all working again.


Tomorrow, I’ll head east. See how far along i get might be a long ride and then wind and heat .. maybe not so long, I’ll check the map and see. Either way, Salina Cruz is in the books, and that road getting here? Definitely the highlight of the day.

wTf , Wind, and a Turnaround Day

You know how not every day goes right? Like, sure, it’s fun to believe this whole trip is one big smiling adventure—but the reality is, some days just aren’t. And today? Well… at least the start of it felt like one of those days.

Slow Start, Frustrating Morning
Woke up feeling off. Debated whether I should even ride or just take the day to catch up on stuff. But I didn’t like Salina Cruz enough to stick around. So I forced myself to get moving—later than I should’ve.
Had to grab the bike from remote parking, reload all the gear, and by the time I was finally mobile, it was already warming up fast. Then I remembered I needed a few things and swung by Walmart—figured it might be my last chance for a while. Ended up spotting a bank and figured I might as well top up on pesos. You can see where this is going… I didn’t roll out of town until after 11.

And everything just felt like it took two tries. Wind blowing my gloves away while trying to gear up, sweating in my jacket while fumbling with my helmet, second-guessing every stop. Nothing terrible. Just… clunky, really clunky.!!

The Wind Tunnel From Hell
Finally hit the road. Rode through Tehuantepec, then made the right turn toward Tuxtla Gutiérrez. This is the same region with those infamous Tehuantepec winds—remember I mentioned them, and I even checked Windy before leaving. It didn’t look too bad on the app. But wow, either I read the app wrong or not sure but...wTf.!!
I’m not exaggerating—this was some of the worst wind stretches I’ve ever ridden in. Direct crosswinds that had me leaning hard just to stay in my lane or keep the bike tracking. Gusts that would hit and try to stand the bike up or push me sideways. I was dancing with the wind the whole time. Frustration level .. high.
Didn’t see a single other bike on the road—not a little scooter, not a bike. Nothing. And no semi-trucks pulling vans either. Just tankers and flatbeds. That says it all.
It wasn’t just the strength—it was the inconsistency. Gusty, swirly, unpredictable. It would slam from the left, then whip around and shove from the right, depending on where the road came off a small hill or around it or out of a lttle valley. Just brutal. And once you’re in it, really you’ve got no choice but to ride it out.

Calling It Early – San Pedro Tapanatepec
finally got out of the wind for the most part I’d barely done 70-80 miles when I saw San Pedro Tapanatepec on the map. Just a little ways up ahead. It was only around 2 PM, but I didn’t care. I was mentally done. I needed a reset, and tomorrow’s road looks more promising anyway.
Pulled into town and found a hotel that looked ok, main dragish, the Hotel Rebina. And wow, what a surprise. Locked courtyard, modern clean rooms, AC, and all for 750 pesos. I got checked in, unpacked, and immediately felt better.

A Small Town With Some Character
Didn’t expect much from this town—it’s small, maybe 10,000–12,000 people—but it is Mexico and I was wrong. Wandered out and found a whole bunch of cool things: a vibrant little central park, a colorful staircase leading up a lookout hill, a lovely old church beside the plaza, and tucked-away buildings crumbling, but crumbling with character.
This town was founded in 1669, and it shows—in a good way. But there has to be buildings on building on who knows what. There’s even what looks like a small bullfighting ring right in town (yep, confirmed). It’s just beside some house like it’s no big deal. That’s Mexico for you.

And A Good Meal
Stopped in at a small, nameless restaurant just down from where I’d parked. We struggled through some Spanish-English but landed on a special: Mexican meatballs, salad with fiery jalapeños, beans, and tortillas. All that for 90 pesos. And it was absolutely fantastic.
Sat back at the hotel after, did a bit of maintenance and reorganizing, and started feeling human again. Tomorrow, I’ll be back on the road and heading east. Don’t know how far I’ll get—but that’s all part of the adventure.

Today started out rough. One of those “what the hell am I doing?” mornings. But it turned around. Because, after all… can you really have a bad day in Mexico?

I wasn’t sure if I was going to share this, but it’s stuck with me in a way that feels worth writing down.

This morning, I stopped in a little town called Cintalapa to grab my first coffee of the day. I was sitting outside on a curb with my helmet off, taking it all in, not really in a rush. You know how some days on the road just feel… off? Not bad, exactly, but clunky. The day before had been one of those, and I guess I was still shaking off the fog. A bit of traveler fatigue, maybe. Wondering if I was still chasing something or just going through the motions. Maybe even lamenting how I can’t speak the language of the country I’m in, How I likely packed too much and should get rid of stuff, how maybe there is better gear than the stuff I’m wearing..??? Life altering problems.

And then this little girl walked up to me.
She couldn’t have been more than six, maybe seven. Kinda devil may care attitude, wild little grin, full of energy. She said something I didn’t quite catch—maybe asking for money, maybe just talking. I smiled and pointed to my coffee and told her, “No Español.” She looked at me kind of sideways, tilted her head and put her hands to her mouth..
She had no hands.
Just two small arms ending in nubs soft, round nubs where fingers should be, there were little wart looking things. I assume she wasn’t born with hands. She didn’t seem embarrassed, just smiled And wandered off.

That hit me harder than I expected. I watched her walk away and catch up with her mom and older sister, and they disappeared into a store. A few minutes later they came out and hung around a little bit. And I just sat there with my coffee, watching.
What stayed with me wasn’t that she had no hands—it was how happy she was. Full of life, full of mischief. She bugged her sister, laughed at nothing, danced in place while waiting. She had that kind of energy that makes you forget everything else around you.
At one point her mom got up and walked ahead, and the two girls followed behind. The younger one was trying to put on a hoodie, struggling, obviously—no fingers. Her sister tried to help, but it wasn’t working. They both gave up and tied it around her waist, laughing like it was the best joke in the world.

That’s when it hit me. I was sitting there feeling off, lost in my own head, and this little girl—without hands—was out here laughing her face off, absolutely owning the moment.
I finished my coffee , was getting ready to go , but it was bugging me and I couldn’t leave just yet.
Instead of heading out, I turned the opposite direction down the street they’d walked. Sure enough, a couple blocks away, I spotted them again, sitting on a bench near a patch of park. The little girl was still little ms animated and giggling about something.

I parked the bike nearby and walked over. Pulled out my translator app and showed her mom a message: “Your daughter’s smile is beautiful. It made my morning.” Her mom smiled and nodded. I asked, again through the app, “Was she asking for pesos?” and the mom shyly said yes.
I gave the little girl 30 pesos—nothing big—and she took it with both of her hands, such as they were, beaming. “Gracias, gracias and of course that big smile?
I asked if I could take a photo with them to capture the smile. She was shy at first, but her mom encouraged her. So we all posed together, and her mom took the picture. She was just behind me and the ever little stinker, covered her face with her little arms and burst out laughing. Totally punked me.

Her sister was howling, even her mom was laughing. It was one of those rare moments when everyone’s just in it, sharing something honest.
So I said, “You think that’s funny, huh?” and reached into my pocket again. This time I gave her what I felt that smile, that moment, was really worth. Her eyes went wide. Big saucer eyes. She gasped, her hands barely holding the bill, and said “¡Gracias! ¡Gracias!” over and over. Her mom looked like she might cry.
I didn’t linger. Just smiled, got back on the bike, and carried on. My day was totally made.

But that little girl, Frida, I think that is what her mom said , made my ride. Maybe The whole ride, It’ll be one of the things I think of when people ask about the Mexico ride. The way she smiled like nothing in the world could stop her. The way she made everyone around her smile too. I don’t know what her life looks like, but I know she reminded me what a good day really feels like.

So I'm thinking, whatever problems you have.. well there is somebody with worse problems .. And they're smiling and living a big ol life..!!

Twisties, Topés and a Plaza That Rocks
Early Start, Easy Ride
Got out early while it was still cool and hit the road toward Palenque. The ride was solid, a backroad kind of day with lots of twisties, which almost got tiresome. I actually found myself wishing for a straight stretch. Still, it was smooth with just enough potholes to keep it interesting. After San Cristóbal, the scenery changed. The towns became smaller, felt more remote, and the topes? They multiplied and got more random in their style and fast. Oh, also Sunday traffic, some folks and trucks going over tope's like they were made of glass. Between that and the curves, it felt like the Sunday test of patience at times.

Sunday Vibes and Shifting Culture
And being Sunday, the roads were lined with people walking—many women, men and children dressed in what looked like traditional Mayan clothing, likely on their way to church. The people looked a little different, as they often do across different regions of Mexico. The churches started to shift too, simpler as I indicated, and not all Catholic. I passed a Presbyterian one and a few others that looked like newer faith groups.

The Rock Pile
Came around a bend in one small town and saw something , well kinda different. A huge pile of sandstone rocks sat outside a gate leading up a steep hill. Dozens of people—kids, parents, grandparents—were each hauling one or two rocks up the hill. Some had bags full. It looked like something out of biblical pyramid building ancient times. I assume they were building or expanding a church. Regardless, it was clearly an act of faith, commitment, and community. Truly something you are not going to see everyday.

Arriving in Ocosingo
Rolled into Ocosingo early afternoon and decided to stop for the day. It seemed like the right call, pushing on would’ve meant another long stretch without much in between. Ocosingo is a fair-sized town, with most amenities you’d expect. Big plaza, good energy. I scoped out a few hotels and chose Hotel Casa Lobe. From the outside it’s just a door, but inside—a beautiful courtyard, fantastic rooms, and great people. The parking is secure across the street. Checked in, cleaned up, and decided I had time to ride out to the nearby archaeological site, Toniná.

Trip to See Ruins .. well Ruined
Rode the rough, pothole strewn road out to the ruins, only to arrive into an empty parking lot and then be told by the lone guard they were closed. Tried explaining I’d come from Canada "that's nice" and showed him the Google listing that said open till 5 "nope", I smiled my most charming smile "he kept reading his magazine" and he wasn’t budging. Still closed. So I turned around and headed back to town. So surprised the smile didn't work, odd.!!

Ocosingo After Dark
Back in town, I parked the bike and set out to explore. The plaza is big—not flashy, but spacious and full of life. A large white church with weathered, mold-streaked walls anchors one side. I couldn’t get in at first—it was packed to standing-room-only with people spilling into the street. Sunday mass, I assume.
Wandered the funky nearby streets. Not overloaded with shops, but just enough. Not touristy. Found a place to eat—Las Delicias. Ordered something carne asada Combo'ish from the menu with help from pictures. The plate came loaded and looked as good as it tasted.

The Plaza Comes Alive
By 7:30, the plaza was absolutely alive. A band was playing modern rock music. People brought out chairs, kids were running around, clowns performing and blowing up ballons, families everywhere. The streets around the plaza turned into a cruise loop—cars, bikes, honking, waving. It felt like a scene from American Graffiti. Hundreds, of people were out. It was vibrant, noisy, and full of life. A perfect Sunday night snapshot of small-town Mexico. And the church eventually thinned out enough that I got to look inside. Simple, but the altar area was all made from small stones, not flashy, just incredibly intricate. M
ust have taken forever, at least it was flat ground and the rocks were smaller.!!

Wrapped up the night , walked back to the hotel and called it a night.

Tomorrow? Back on the road. Where to? Not sure yet.
Because it’s allpartoftheadventure

A Rest Day in a Town That Surprised Me

I didn’t go anywhere today. no ride, no distance covered. Just a day off the bike to rest, catch up on some personal stuff, and let the body and mind reset. It was overdue.
I hung close to the hotel for most of the morning. Took care of a few maintenance-type things, repacked some stuff, sorted a little laundry, and cleaned up the mess of wires, chargers, and gear that always seems to explode inside the panniers.

The Market Scene
Later in the day, I headed out on foot to explore more of Ocosingo. Ended up stumbling into one of the bigger public markets I’ve seen so far. This thing is massive. Not touristy-polished. It’s raw, big, busy, crowded, and honestly, a little dark and chaotic. It took some digging to even find the entrance because most of the vendors have spilled out into the streets. That seems to be where the action is now, open air, constant movement. The whole area around it, for blocks in every direction, is packed with vendors, small shops, and people everywhere. It was alive with activity.
And I mean alive. The streets were wall-to-wall people and traffic, locals going about their day, kids in school uniforms, shopkeepers, street vendors selling fruit, sandals, roasted corn, random electronics, you name it. I didn’t spot another gringo the whole time, but nobody seemed to care. A few curious looks, but the interactions were friendly, sincere. I did my usual “No Español” shuffle in the shops, and we figured it out with smiles and gestures.

Celebration in the Plaza
Later in the evening, I walked back toward the main plaza. Turns out something was brewing there—a full-blown community celebration. A stage was set up, chairs filled with spectators, and people in traditional costumes were getting ready for something. Sure enough, it turned into a cultural event celebrating sports, arts, and traditions. Dancers, performers, even what i think were dramatizations of historical events. And the plaza was full. Hundreds of people in and around it.
The vibe? Unreal. The crowd wasn’t just watching—they were involved. After each performance, there were real, heartfelt rounds of applause. The audience was into it. The whole thing felt less like a show for people and more like a celebration by people. Families, kids, elders, everyone sharing the moment.

The Beautiful People
And that’s when something clicked for me.
I know this is one of the poorer parts of Mexico, at least socioeconomically. You can see it in the buildings, the streets, the wear and tear on everything. You can see it in the people. And I’ve spent time sailing and hanging on islands in the Caribbean too, on some of the poorer islands, places you might call borderline third-world. But I remember calling the people I met there “the beautiful people.” Not because of runway model looks, but because they carried themselves with a certain pride. They were grateful, sincere, and, even in hard circumstances, genuinely happy to greet you, to help you, to smile and make the most of the moment.

And Ocosingo? It gave me that same feeling.
Sure, people here probably wish they had more money or didn’t have to hustle as hard. But they’re present. And like other places I have seen in Mexico , hey show up for their community. They bring their kids out on a Monday night to celebrate and clap and dance. That’s not nothing. That’s everything.


Dinner and Done
Wrapped up the night with a fantastic meal, Milanesa de Pollo at a little place called Espresso. It was over-the-top good. Took some pictures, wandered the streets a bit more, then headed back to the hotel and called it a night.

Tomorrow? Probably back on the road. Palenque, maybe. Still undecided.
Because it’s .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

Twisties, Waterfalls, and Ruins

Rolling Out
Got up at a decent time, got everything all put together, and got an early start. Rolled out of Ocosingo around 9 a.m. And I know it sounds like the same old, same old, but one of the best roads I’ve been on this trip has to be the stretch from Ocosingo to Palenque. Sure, it had some potholes and busted-up bits where the lane might be missing, but the scenery, the twisties, the ride, it was just a really fun road. And maybe part of it was the mood I was in. The temperature helped too, mid-20s (70’s)most of the morning before it warmed up into the 30s (90’s) later on. But for that first part of the ride, absolutely fantastic. Big points to Highway 199.

Agua Azul
I rode for just under an hour and a half and got to Agua Azul. Cascadas de Agua Azul. It’s a very cool spot, a series of stepped waterfalls. Now, the entry rigmarole is a bit much. You pay 40 pesos at the big stone archway, then a couple hundred feet up the road, pay another 40 pesos. One is the park, one is government or something, they both give you official-looking tickets.
It’s touristy as all get-out. Tons of people trying to sell you everything, souvenirs, food, “special” parking spots in front of their restaurant. I got parked and made my way in. The water is this beautiful azure blue, cold too, or maybe just felt that way after the heat of the ride. You can swim in it, climb around, hang out on the rocks. I think some of it was impacted by an earthquake a while back and they’ve done some restoration to help it keep its flow and form. So it’s not entirely natural anymore, but it’s still very cool to see.

The Ruins of Palenque
After that, I geared back up and rode just under another hour and a half to the ruins at Palenque. And wow. I started with the jungle tour, which I’m glad I did. You can actually see how much of the site is still buried, stone walls, old tombs, whole sections still covered in growth. They figure only 5 to 10 percent has been uncovered. It gives you a real sense of the scale of it.
And then you come out to the main site, and it’s massive. A good mix of restored and untouched. They told me 40 percent is fully restored, 40 percent is cleaned up but not rebuilt, and 20 percent is left just as they found it. There are signs with English blurbs everywhere. You can climb a bunch of the temples, walk through tombs, including one called the Red Tomb where a queen was buried, and soak in the view from the top. Lush green all around, lots of shaded spots to sit and just take it in. It’s a great site, definitely worth the stop.

Settling in Palenque
After a full day, between the heat, the humidity, and all the walking, it was time to find a room. I ended up at Hotel Palenque Premier. Modern place, clean, AC, 850 pesos. Only downside is street parking. I pulled a bunch off the bike and locked it up. There’s cameras, and the police station’s right on the corner, like that will help ?? so fingers crossed.

The Town
Cleaned up and went for a walk. The plaza here is just a block away, big, lively, lots of people hanging out. A stage was set up with dancers in full traditional dress doing their thing. Seems to be a lot of that lately. Being a tourist town with the ruins and Agua Azul nearby, it’s got lots of shops, restaurants, and a pretty international crowd. I heard a bunch of French, and ??, being spoken, and of course plenty of Mexican tourists too. And yes a church off the plaza , simple ,by the Cathedral style church's I have seen, what was impressive was the crowd at the church and the choir practising
Stopped for dinner at a little restaurant, don’t remember the name, and had chicken fajitas. I’ll toss in a pic. Food was fantastic, like pretty much everything I’ve eaten here so far. I don’t think I’ve had a bad meal yet.

Calling It a Night
After that, I called it a night. A solid day. Not crazy miles, but between the heat, the walking, and everything else, it added up. Tomorrow I head east again. Not sure where to, but that’s kind of the point.

Because it’s AllPartOfTheAdventure

Long Straights, Fewer Topes, and a New'ish Mexican Town
36 days. Who’d have thunk it? 36 days and nights and a lot of miles n smiles. I haven’t counted in a while, but it’s quite a few.

Today’s ride was really different from what I have been riding the last few days . Leaving Palenque, there were no twisties—just road. Straight. Bizarre, honestly. I actually had the bike up to speed for real, ok even beyond a bit. I thought, “Oh my God, I haven’t done this for so long.” I’ve been twisting and turning for weeks. The road ranged from decent to okay to just missing altogether in some spots. Some stretches were basically pothole fields—almost gravel. I even saw locals filling potholes with this red muck in one section. This was highways 10 and 203 I took the back wasy to connect to 186. And 186 is better, still some rough sections and potholes, but long and straight and faster. Oh, and lots of truck traffic or just traffic period. Was not used to that, or at speed anyways.

The country along 10 and 203? Honestly, it felt like high country ranchland in the USA or Canada. Big green fields, cattle, ranches. Just flat and wide open. I guess the Yucatán Peninsula really is just that—flat. And with fewer towns, there were way fewer topes, which felt like a bit of a treat. It was actually kind of nice to just cruise for a while.

Rolling into Escárcega
I rolled into Escárcega around 1:30 or 2 p.m. It’s a newer town, only about 120 years old, which makes it brand new by Mexican standards. It kind of reminded me of the west in Canada or the USA also, where a 60-year-old building gets a heritage plaque.
Escárcega’s an industrial hub, built on rail and trucking. It’s a workaday town, no doubt. But it’s got everything. I found a hotel—pretty sure it was called YAAKUNA, decent room, secure parking, AC, all the essentials. Cost :500 pesos. Can’t complain. It’s only three blocks from Centro.

Exploring Town
After settling in and cleaning up, I wandered into town. Like most Mexican towns, lots of people out and about, lots of little shops. I found the public market, but honestly, it wasn’t much. Big space, but most of the stalls were closed up. I was there around 3 or 3:30, which shouldn’t have been too late in the day. Maybe it’s more of a weekend thing, or earlier in the morning. Hard to say. It felt like maybe the market’s best days were behind it.
What stood out more was this pedestrian strip—like a small paseo—no cars or motos, just foot traffic. It runs about three blocks, connecting a park to a plaza. Shops line it, though again, a lot were closed. Still, as the evening wore on, more people came out, more shops opened up, and it felt more lively.

The Mayan Train
You can’t miss the massive overhead rail line running through town. That’s the Mayan Train—Tren Maya—a government mega-project aiming to boost tourism and jobs in the Yucatán and southern Mexico. It’s been controversial, with lots of pushback from environmental groups and Indigenous communities, and from what I can tell, it’s not fully operational yet.
Some parts are running though. I guess the line from here to Palenque is active. They say it takes about two and a half hours with a couple stops. But it’s far from running at full capacity. Seems like a lot of money spent on something that’s still trying to figure itself out. But hey, every country has its big projects that take forever and cost more than planned. Canada, the U.S.—we’re no strangers to that.
I swung by the station—new, fancy, but totally empty. Just a security guard. No passengers, no movement. Felt kind of surreal. Across the street, though, was a big, rough soccer field with some crazy bleachers, that kept some welders busy for a few days.!!

Three-Wheelers and Small Town Vibes
Here, the three-wheeled moto and pedal carts are the workhorses. Some have the cargo or passenger part in front, some in back. No tuk-tuks here—these are DIY, hand-built rigs for the most part. And there are taxis too, lots of them, but it’s those carts that really move stuff around.
The plaza itself was quiet. No big fancy churches either—makes sense, since this isn’t a colonial town. The pioneers were long gone by the time this place was built. It’s not bad here, just not old Mexico. A different kind of Mexican town. Still real, just not ancient.

Calling It a Night
So that was the day. A good ride, a straight road, and a town built on work, not history. We’re working our way toward the Caribbean now.
Did I mention it was 35c / 95f and humid, ok if you are moving. Not so much if you are not..!!

Like the prairies:

Good roads ,Bad roads. :


Public Market :









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