Palm Trees, Pit Stops, and a Saturday Night Crowd

Packed up, fueled up, and headed out of El Rosario toward San Blas. Got a reasonably early start and took the toll-free highways 15, 72, and 54. It was one of those days where you just enjoy the ride, the countryside, and the smells of the trees and plants as everything starts to shift. As I moved south, the landscape got greener, maybe even a little tropical. Not sure if it’s technically tropical yet, but it felt like it. Seeing palm trees again was a good sign.

It was hot today, but really only when stopped or riding slow in direct sun. Once moving, there was a perfect breeze that made for fantastic riding conditions. Loved that.

The Unexpected and Fun Pit Stop in Reynosa
While riding the other day, I had the idea to mount my phone somewhere so I could snap road photos while riding. Nothing fancy, just something to make it easier to grab quick shots. Problem was, I needed a drill, or at least someone with one.

Enter Reynosa, and two guys named Pedro and Enrique.

I stopped at a small shop. Not modern, kind of a mix between a tire repair place, a junk pile, and a siesta hangout. Between my terrible Spanish, their terrible English, Google Translate, and a whole lot of gestures, I managed to explain what I needed. They got it right away.

Enrique jumped on a bicycle and rode off looking for a drill. Pedro started digging around for bits, and we began prepping. Enrique came back a few minutes later with a drill, but the chuck wouldn’t grip the small bit we needed. After more chatter, he took off again. Meanwhile, Pedro and I kept tinkering with what we had until he suddenly remembered another drill he had stashed somewhere.

He brought it out, and we were in business. A few minutes later, the hole was drilled, the mount was in place, and the job was done. They refused to take any money. Just a handshake and “buen viaje.” Eventually I managed to press a little cash on them, took a couple of pictures, and rolled on. Moments like that are why I love riding in Mexico. The people are something else.

Rolling Into San Blas
The rest of the ride was smooth. I stopped a couple of times to take in the scenery and eventually rolled into San Blas in the afternoon. A couple of hotels were full, which had me mildly concerned, but one of them pointed me toward Hotel Familia.

It turned out to be a great spot. Family-run, with a nice restaurant out front and secure parking out back. They gave me a garage remote for the private lot behind the building, probably enough room for eight or ten cars. I asked if taking up a car spot with the bike was okay, and they immediately offered a better idea — park on the cement pad in the garden where they grow plants. They even suggested putting a cover on it so it wouldn’t get covered in “plant juice” overnight.

Very safe, very welcoming. Room was 850 pesos.

I took a photo with the owner standing next to the bike, threw on the cover, changed into town-exploring clothes, and went for a walk.

Lots of Motorbikes and a Saturday Night Crowd
San Blas was alive. Crowds everywhere, Saturday night energy. I didn’t make it down to the beach, but I explored the waterfront, the marina, and wandered through town. Not a ton to see, but it’s a well-known birdwatching destination.

What stood out the most? Motorbikes. It felt like I had suddenly been dropped into Southeast Asia. Bikes everywhere — on every corner, cutting through traffic, weaving between cars and pedestrians. You had to stay alert just to cross the street. Seemed like an odd thing to see in a town this size, but clearly it’s how the locals get around.

In the main plaza, they were setting up a huge stage. By 8 PM, it was in full swing. I grabbed a spot at one of the plaza restaurants and had some fantastic enchiladas while watching the crowd build. Turned out to be a whole lot of loud music, speeches, and more speeches. After an hour of waiting for something to actually happen, I gave up and wandered back to the hotel.

From my room, I could still hear the party rolling well past midnight. Big crowd, big volume, big night in San Blas.

Oh Yeah, The Phone Mount — Right Idea, Bad Workability
That phone mount we installed? Good idea in theory. In practice, not great. The vibration was bad enough to make most of the pictures unusable. I might salvage something from it, but it’s not the solution I hoped for.

I’ve got a GoPro too, but it brings its own issues. Still figuring all of that out. Not critical, just something I’ll keep messing with when time allows.

Tomorrow – Southbound With as Much Coastal as Possible
Tomorrow I head south again. Maybe Bucerías. Maybe Puerto Vallarta. Maybe somewhere else entirely. I’ll figure it out in the morning.

San Blas just felt like the kind of stop I needed
because too much fun is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

Here is a slideshow of the day..

Slow Miles, Surf Vibes, and Tree Tunnels

Pretty laid-back day. I didn’t cover many miles, but it still took some time. Just a 90-mile cruise down to Punta de Mita. Not much in the way of distance, but it was a scenic one.

The Ride – Coastal Views and Tree Tunnels
The road south had some beautiful stretches. It weaved in and out of coastal sections where I could catch glimpses of the Pacific, then ducked into dense, shaded corridors where the trees formed a tunnel overhead. The ocean was never far, and everything felt greener, thicker, and more tropical the farther I went.

The flip side? The road was rough in a few sections. Lots of topes, lots of tiny towns, and plenty of resort areas where the traffic slows to a crawl. It was Sunday, and nearly every town had something going on. In two of them, the main road was completely shut down. One seemed to be hosting a horse event, the other a full festival.

Even with the slow pace, it was one of those days that felt easy. No rush, no real agenda, just rolling along and seeing what the day offered. I didn’t know where I’d end up, but when I got to Punta de Mita, it felt like the right place to stop.

Punta de Mita – Luxury Meets Surf Culture
This place is interesting. It’s a beach town split right down the middle. On one side, you’ve got high-end real estate offices, boutique stores, and condo listings that start around two hundred seventy-five thousand and climb into the millions. On the other side, you’ve got surfers walking barefoot, carrying boards and six-packs of , looking like they’re here for sun and swells.

It’s a strange mix. Some people are dressed to impress, straight out of a resort catalog, while others look like they live out of their van.

I walked around for a bit, checked out the beach and the surf crowd, and wandered out onto the lighthouse rock jetty. Nice place, but I didn’t feel the need to dig in too deep. It’s polished, a little upscale for this kind of trip, but made for a good place to call it early.

Grabbed a fantastic chicken quesadillas at El Coral. Simple but excellent. Hit the spot after a day of slow riding.

Tomorrow – Heading Inland?
Not sure what the plan is yet. I think it’s time to leave the coast and head inland toward Guadalajara, but I’ll spend some time with the maps tonight and figure it out from there.

Best Laid Plans of Mice and...
The plan was to see some folks in the Puerto Vallarta area, but the morning just got away from me. Spent too much time on the phone, and then tinkering with the bike (loose bolt issue, must be the smooth streets), and before I knew it, half the day was gone.
I really appreciate the generosity of the people that asked I visit, but when I thought about spending the whole day in PV versus getting back on the road, I realized this trip is more about exploring real, authentic Mexico than hanging around hustling, bustling resort towns where everything is new, shiny, and full of tourists. Someplace I’d fly into to enjoy, maybe.

So, around noon, I made the call, I’ll catch up with everyone another time. Time to hit the road.
And yes, I made one last Walmart stop in Bucerías before leaving town.

The Ride, Twisties, Potholes, and Pure Fun
Once I got going, and found the road to Mascota it was fantastic. Twists, curves, and beautiful mountain countryside.
The first stretch was a bit slow, with lots of small towns and stop-and-go traffic, but once I got out into the country, it turned into one of the most fun roads yet.
The pavement wasn’t perfect, plenty of potholes meant you couldn’t get too carried away with the speed. You’re dodging potholes mid-curve, which definitely keeps things interesting. But the scenery, the flow of the road, and the ride itself? Beyond belief. Don’t even think I saw a rock on the road.

Rolling Into Mascota, Authentic, Historic, and Just Cool
First stop in Mascota was AutoZone, needed a couple of nuts and washers to secure something on the bike that had loosened up. Quick fix, no problem.
Then I found the coolest little hotel, the Hotel La Casona De La Esmerelda, very old-school, full of character, with a beautiful courtyard, open grassy area, and secure parking inside the yard.

And then she hands me the key.
When she handed it to me, I couldn’t believe it, one of those massive old keys, and the most archaic locking mechanism I’ve seen in ages. Might have to do a separate post just about this hotel because it’s got so much personality. There are better options in town I’m sure, but this was just so cool.

Exploring Mascota, A Hidden Gem
Mascota is one of those places that feels untouched in all the right ways. Historic, funky, and full of interesting little spots.
All over the centro of town, they have signs pointing to all the local sites, the plaza, the museum, the church, the parks. Makes it easy to just wander and take it all in.
Best sidewalks I’ve seen in Mexico so far, seriously. Most of the town’s sidewalks are in fantastic shape. And downtown, they’ve made the corners handicap-accessible in many areas, which you don’t see everywhere. The streets, on the other hand, are stone-paved, rough, and winding all over the place. Some of them are just wide enough for one car, while others cut at weird angles, it’s a total maze.
I spent some time just walking around, taking it all in. There’s a much stronger sense of history here than I have seen so far, and the town has done a great job preserving its charm.

Simple Food
Didn’t go for anything fancy, just grabbed some street tacos, picked up a few snacks from a small grocery store, and called it a night.

Tomorrow, Guadalajara Bound
Hoping to get an early start in the morning and head toward Guadalajara. So pumped for the ride ahead, this trip is turning out even better than expected.
Far better than expected. Thanks for the push guys.

Twisty and Hot, the Adventure Continues

Today was another fantastic day. I know you are getting tired of hearing that, but I am just so amazed at Mexico.

Finally got an early start and hit the road while it was still a bit cool out. You guys had mentioned Talpa de Allende, so I did a bit of interweb investigation, and when I checked the map, it wasn’t far off my route. The town looked interesting, and the road looked fun, so I decided to detour and check it out.

And wow, this town was a beehive of activity. You actually knew that as soon as you turned off Highway 70 onto the road to Talpa de Allende, because of all the tour buses going in and out.

Talpa de Allende — Apparently a Pilgrimage Destination
Talpa de Allende was buzzing. Shops, markets with more shops, and a plaza that was absolutely rocking. People, adults, little ponies, kids, nuns, cops directing traffic.

Kiko mentioned something about Peregrinos (pilgrims) traveling to Talpa, which apparently happens a few times a year. Maybe that explained the crowds and the endless rows of market stalls. Vendors were selling everything imaginable for the religious festivals that bring people here. I’m guessing, folks.

The people were so friendly, and the energy of the town was something to see. Definitely worth the detour, and honestly, it would have been a great place to overnight. But since it was still early in the day, I decided to carry on. Cal, you may be here for many days.

The Ride — Fun, Smooth Road, Big Heat
From Talpa, I continued on Highway 70, which turned out to be a great road. Lots of twisties, not a lot of potholes, and just a plain old good road through the mountains.

Hot day, though. Somewhere north of 90°F (33–35°C), and every time I stopped, it was in the shade.
I had planned to stop in Ameca, but it was still reasonably early, so I figured I’d push a little farther. Cocula looked like a good place to stop for the night, just another few minutes down the road.

Well… that is, if you don’t miss the turn.
I somehow managed to overshoot the turn leaving Ameca, which meant taking a bit of a longer way around, but I got there in the end.

Cocula — Another Happening Spot
Found a really nice, modern hotel, the Real Cocula Hotel, for 1100 pesos, but worth it. Got settled in, threw on shorts, a t-shirt, and flip-flops, and went out to explore.

So the Mystery Explosions and a Procession
Just as I left the hotel, I heard loud bangs. Like, really loud. Louder than gunshots. It was one of those moments where you stop and think, “Okay, what exactly is that?”

The bangs were spaced apart. One loud blast, then silence, then another blast. Didn’t sound like fireworks.

As I walked, I started to hear bands playing, and about three blocks later, I found a big procession. A band was leading the way, followed by kids in traditional indigenous costumes dancing, people carrying a statue of Christ on a Cross, pallbearer style, and another band bringing up the rear.
It had the feel of a funeral procession, but I don’t actually know the meaning behind it. Whatever it was, it was incredible to see. Got a video, but I’ll just include pictures here.

Oh, and a guy walking behind randomly putting a cannon down and shooting off a single large bang.

Big Church by the Plaza
From the outside, it’s not the most ornate, but step inside, and it’s a whole different story. Gold everywhere. Around the altar, covering the walls, statues shining. Over the top, extravagant, and amazing to see.

There were even a couple of other big churches in town too, but this one stood out.
And the plaza was very busy, full of energy, lots of shops, and just alive.
Grabbed some tacos from a street vendor. Really good, but forgot to take a picture before devouring them. Heat must’ve got to me.

Tomorrow — Guadalajara?
Still not 100 percent sure if I’m heading into Guadalajara or not. Gonna sleep on it and decide in the morning.

One thing’s for sure — I’m loving this ride.

Parade in Cocula



Here is the Pic Dump

Short Ride, but Some Great Intel

Took a short ride today, just over an hour and a half, landing in San Juan Cosalá, south of Guadalajara. Not a long day in the saddle, but today wasn’t about covering distance.

A fellow rider from, Kiko, had reached out and invited me to stop by for a coffee if I was ever in the area. He’s been living and riding here for years and had plenty of insight on riding and living in Mexico, so it was well worth taking the time to meet up, swap stories, and soak up some local knowledge. Always great to hear from someone who has been in a place long enough to really understand it. Plus, he’s just an all-around good soul. I’m appreciative to have met him. Thanks, Kiko.

Ajijic — Expat Central
After a good afternoon of conversation, I made my way over to Ajijic, one of the small towns along Lago de Chapala (Lake Chapala), and found a hotel for the night. By the time I got out to explore, it was already dark, but I still made my way down to the plaza to check out the area. And many surprises—the ornate ironwork all around the plaza, and the “Wall of the Dead” that was different, but so Mexico.

Ajijic has a huge expat community, mostly Canadians and Americans from what I understand. The restaurants seemed to be a near 50/50 mix of locals and expats, which gives the place a different feel than many of the towns I’ve been through. I expected to see a few, but there are a lot of expats here. Definitely a well-established hub for people retiring or relocating to Mexico.

Of course, there was a big church in the plaza, and when I went up to it, the place was absolutely packed—standing room only, and even outside, people were waiting. Then I noticed something interesting: people were moving in one door and out another, emerging with an ash cross on their forehead. That’s when it clicked. Ash Wednesday.

It is incredible to see how deeply spiritual the culture here is. The church was full of locals coming to receive ashes, quietly reflecting as they moved through the ceremony. Even from the outside, you could feel the weight of tradition and belief.

Pilgrims on the Road
Speaking of religious devotion, I also caught sight of some Peregrinos (pilgrims) on the way here. While I was taking a break, five or six people emerged from the scrub brush on the side of the road with backpacks, walking along the highway toward their destination. They stopped briefly to chat with a roadside vendor, then waved and carried on—likely making their way to Talpa de Allende as part of their pilgrimage.

Over-the-Top Good Meal
While wandering around town, I spotted a restaurant flying a Canadian, American, and Mexican flag, which stood out as unique. It had a reader board out front, looked good, so I wandered in.

Inside, I saw a couple of expat ladies eating and asked them how their meal was. They raved about it—the special was pork ribs done roast-style, mashed potatoes, sautéed vegetables—but warned me they thought the kitchen was about to close. They pointed me toward the owner, who was sitting nearby.

Despite speaking very little English, he immediately welcomed me in and made sure I got a meal. And oh man, was it worth it. Huge portions, amazing food, over-the-top good.

The restaurant? El Charro.

So not many miles today, but a ride that led to some great conversations, a deeper look into local culture, and one of the best meals yet.

What did I see the other day? “It’s not about the miles, but the smiles.” Today definitely fit that to a T.

Tomorrow? Haven’t decided yet.

Short mileage day, but packed with experiences. Started off with a ride into Guadalajara, and let me tell you, I could’ve just kept riding all day. The roads into the city were great, the temperature was perfect, but I had business to take care of. First stop, KTM Guadalajara. Another great Kiko suggestion.

A Really Fun Dealership Experience, Really, I’m Not Kidding
Originally, I just planned to grab an oil filter and maybe check for brake pads. Mexico is brutal on brakes, with all the stop signs, topes, and sudden slowdowns. But once I started chatting with Arturo, the service manager, things escalated quickly.

Between his minimal English and my butchered Spanish, we somehow made it work. He was incredibly helpful, and when I asked if they could do a service, he immediately said yes. That led to checking a couple of parameters on the bike, diagnosing a rear brake switch warning, and even pulling up the full service history and recall records.

And then came the coolest part.
When it was time to bring the bike in, Arturo pointed to the front doors of the dealership and said, “Up the ramp.”
Wait, what?
Yep, ride the bike up the showroom ramp, through the front doors, across the dealership floor, and right up to his desk. No back-alley service bay here. Straight through the fancy entrance.

From there, the mechanic came up to check the bike, and the first thing he asked?
Would I like them to wash it?
Lo siento, amigo. Yes, please.

And just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, they lowered the bike into the shop via a glass elevator. That’s right. This dealership has a literal bike elevator taking motorcycles into the service area below.

Service took a little longer than expected. Arturo said two hours, it ended up being three-plus, but they were thorough, professional, and friendly as hell. They were also super excited that I was from Canada.

While waiting, I grabbed a coffee next door, caught up on messages with their great WiFi, and just bummed around the store.

Oh, and they have the tires I need, but I only found that out as I was paying the bill, which was more than acceptable. I told Arturo I’d think on it. Might make sense to bite the bullet and put them on here.

Navigating Guadalajara, Mayhem on Two Wheels
Leaving KTM, I had one mission, get to my hotel.
Sounds easy, right?
It was ten miles away but took an hour. Time of day didn’t help. Five o’clock.

Guadalajara traffic is big city, absolute madness. Bumper to bumper, aggressive, unpredictable. If there’s an open spot, someone’s taking it. Fast.

And just to make it even more interesting, my GPS shut down.
So I winged it, dodging through thick traffic, following whatever vague sense of direction I had left. Somehow, by luck and pure determination, I managed to roll up to my stop for the night.

Real Maestranza Hotel, Solid Call
Big thanks to Pete_Tallahassee on the forum for this suggestion. Fantastic hotel. Great fun staff, modern, secure underground parking, and right in the heart of Centro.

Once I got checked in, I wandered the streets a bit, but the real priority? Food.

Found a barbecue pollo joint and grabbed a half grilled chicken, potato salad, regular salad, and more. Exactly what I needed after the chaos of city traffic. Wandered around a bit more, took in the energy of downtown Guadalajara, then called it a night.

Tomorrow, getting out and seeing what Mexico’s second largest city has to offer.

Notes on a Solo Ride
I have sailed a bit single-handed in the Caribbean, navigating open water alone, making every decision solo. But this, this is a whole different experience.

Riding solo across Mexico forces you to be patient and think things through, which is much like sailing. No backup, no one to double-check a decision or call you out before you do something dumb.

If you screw up alone in the middle of nowhere and have an incident or worse, you get hurt. Sure, you’ll probably get taken to help, or jail. But then what? This isn’t Kansas or Canada, Dorothy. Who’s looking after the bike? Where does it end up? And is it even intact when you get back to it?

Not saying you should obsess over this stuff, but it’s definitely been a great teacher in staying calm, thinking everything through.

And then, of course, still managing to do some really stupid shit anyways.

Video and Pics Guadalajara

A Brief Skim of the History and Culture

Didn’t even fire up the bike today. Just a full day of exploring Guadalajara on foot. The most I did with the bike was head down to the parkade, check it over, grab my walking shoes, and hit the streets. And let me tell you, one day here is nowhere near enough.

I walked over six miles, saw more cathedrals, museums, murals, street art, plazas, and cultural sites than I could possibly post pictures of. Everywhere you turn, there’s something to see.

The Cathedrals, Each One Unique
First stop was Catedral Basilica de la Asuncion de Maria Santisima, where I joined a walking tour of the area. The sheer scale of these places is mind-blowing. The architecture, the details, the centuries of history built into every wall and column.

Part of that tour included the Governor’s Mansion and State of Jalisco Government Building, which turned out to be one of the highlights of the day. The tour was in English, and it was beyond fantastic. Inside, the ceilings are covered in murals so massive and detailed they don’t even seem real.

The artist, José Clemente Orozco, often called the Michelangelo of Mexico, created these enormous sweeping frescos full of optical illusions and intricate details. The sheer scale of them is incredible. Just standing there, looking up, you feel like you’re inside a masterpiece. I learned more about Mexican history in that tour to intrigue me to no end.

Then I visited at least one or two more cathedrals. While they weren’t as big, each had something unique. One near my hotel was packed with statues. Three-foot-high saints lined the altar and side walls. It was overwhelming in the best way. Every time I think I’ve seen the most impressive church, another one comes along that completely changes the game.

The Uni Art Museum, A Wild Ride Through Mexican Culture
Across from the university, I found the Museo de las Artes de la Universidad de Guadalajara, an art museum that completely surprised me. It was filled with pieces from local artists depicting every aspect of Mexican life, wrestling, burlesque, craftsmanship, taxis, street food.

It wasn’t just your standard paintings-on-the-wall type of place. This was interactive, raw, and full of life. I could have spent the whole day just taking it all in.

Around the back of the museum, I wandered into another plaza with yet another stunning cathedral, this one showcasing wild Neo-Gothic architecture. That’s how it was described. Every turn in this city seems to reveal something even more spectacular than the last.

Ralph’s Quesadillas and the Mystery Drink
After all that walking, I needed a break. Stumbled onto a little restaurant called El Rogers Quesadillas. Absolutely unreal food. Just over-the-top good.

I wanted to order a Topo Chico (mineral water), but they didn’t have it, so I tried an agua fresca, which should translate to fresh water. What I got was a sealed, cloudy bottle with tiny seeds floating in it. No idea what it was, but my logic was simple. If thousands of locals drink it and don’t die, I should be fine.

Took a sip. Lemony, maybe a bit of lime, definitely refreshing. Still not sure what it was, but it was good.

Edit: I have since been informed the drink is a Tejuino. Tejuino is a cold fermented beverage made from corn and popularly consumed in the Mexican states of Jalisco, Colima, Nayarit, and Oaxaca. Tejuino is usually made from corn dough.

Underground Tunnels of Guadalajara
Another stop of the day: Museo de Sitio de El Puente de las Damas, which takes you into a small section of the underground tunnels that run beneath Guadalajara.

The tour was in Spanish, so I missed a lot of the spoken history, but the museum had infographics and displays that helped me piece things together. These tunnels were rumored for years but only discovered when excavation work uncovered them. They were used by Christian fighters to move in secret between cathedrals, hidden beneath the city.

Absolutely fascinating, and you can’t help but wonder how many more lie undiscovered beneath the streets. You can even see the pipes that still run under the streets today.

A City With So Much to See
Even after walking all day, I barely scratched the surface. At one point, I ended up in Colonia Americana. Very modern, full of fast-food chains, restaurants, and endless shopping options. A completely different vibe from the historic centro, but still a great area to explore.

There’s no end to this place. I could easily spend weeks here and still not see it all.

By the time I got back to the hotel, I was exhausted, overwhelmed in the best way, and already thinking about what I’d missed.

Oh, did I mention street art? Lots of street art all over the place. Even some of the graffiti was tasteful and art-like. And just the buildings, and… and…

Tomorrow, More Guadalajara? Or Back on the Road?
Not sure what’s next. Maybe another day in this amazing city, or maybe it’s time to get moving again. I’ll decide in the morning.

Slideshow:

Still in Guadalajara. As much as I’d love to keep exploring, I decided to deal with something that had been nagging at me — tires. Something I should have just done before I left, but I didn’t. So, I gave Arturo at KTM Eurobike a call and set up an appointment.

As I mentioned before, I was surprised they had a solid option in stock. My current tires were Z-rated street tires, likely the originals from when the bike was new. So yeah, eight years old. Not completely shot, but not much life left either. I knew I’d have to deal with tires sooner or later, and I wanted something that would last the rest of the trip.

They had Dunlop TrailMax Missions. Checked the reviews, seemed like a good choice. A long-lasting tire that’s OK on pavement and still capable in sand or gravel if needed. The only real downside, brutally stiff sidewalls, kind of like a Heidenau K60, meaning if I ever had to change one on the side of the road, good luck.

I do carry a tire repair kit and compressor, so hopefully, that’s all I’ll ever need.

Blah blah blah about tires. Long story short — I booked it in, and have new tires.

Got down to KTM early and was waiting for them to open, and once again, they were fantastic. Super welcoming, making sure I was comfortable, just a great shop all around. The tire swap took about three hours, but they took their time and did it right.

And while I was waiting, Kiko sent me a message. He was up for a ride. Perfect. Once the bike was ready, I shot him a message.

Riding with Kiko
I left KTM and met him near Jocotepec at the junction by the lake. We wasted no time and hit the road, and it was fantastic. Fun roads, great pace, and damn, Kiko doesn’t mess around — he zips right along.

We rode down to La Manzanilla de la Paz, where Kiko had to drop off a package. Turns out he knows a lot of folks in town, so we took a little walking tour.

He showed me The Miracle of La Manzanilla, an incredible local legend. The story goes like this:
• A saintly woman taught poor children on a large flat rock because they couldn’t afford school.
• After she passed, lightning struck the rock and split it in half.
• Over time, the rock fused back together on its own, and an image of the Virgin Mary appeared on it.
• Experts investigated and officially declared it a miracle.

Much more to the story. I’m not really doing it justice. But hope you get the gist.

There’s a huge cathedral in town, but the actual rock where the event happened has its own separate building, where people come to pray, leave trinkets, clothing, pictures, and handwritten notes asking for blessings. Pretty amazing to see and hear the full story.

Ending the Day in Mazamitla
From La Manzanilla, we carried on riding to Mazamitla, a really cool little mountain town.

After parking the bikes, Kiko, ever the fantastic Mexico tour guide, helped me find a perfect hotel right in the heart of downtown. Affordable — 750 pesos — with underground parking and security cameras. Couldn’t ask for better.

Then Kiko gave me the full tour of town, showing me all the best spots and… snakes. Yes, there were people with snakes. Turns out a local breeder was showing off their snakes, just spreading the word about snakes in the area. Go figure.

The town was very busy, and like a tourist spot, it has shop after shop where you can buy everything from a coffee to a transistor radio to a poncho.

Really great to ride together and spend the day hanging out though. Kiko, you are a great soul.

Wrapping Up the Day
After Kiko took off, I wandered the town, snapped some pictures, and grabbed some unreal Chile Rellenos at the Mercado — Kiko’s recommendation, of course. By the time I got back to the hotel, I was done. Long day, a lot going on, and I just needed to chill.

Tomorrow? We’ll See Where the Road Leads
Yes, need to figure out where next. Thinking about heading back toward the Pacific, winding through the mountains. The route looks really fun.

And honestly, I’d really like to just get in a few solid hours of riding. I do love the riding part too.
I am loving all of this gig so far .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

Twisties, Sugar Cane, Bananas and the Pacific

Really happy with the day. Got some riding in, all old highways, no toll roads. Just the kind of day I wanted.

The Ride
Rode Highway 110, 54, and finally hit Highway 200 to head down the coast. And let me tell you, twisties. Lots and lots of twisties. Speed up, slow down, dodge a slow-moving truck, get on the brakes for topes. Seriously, so many topes.

The roads weren’t in terrible shape, but it was a workout type ride. Sometimes cruising under the new highway, weaving through little funky towns, getting cut off in those funky little towns, and the ever-present hawkers by the topes in the funky little towns, and running through a lot of sugar cane fields.

At one point, I rolled up on what had been a roadside fire on the mountainside. Looked like a controlled roadside burn, but apparently, someone forgot to tell the telephone pole. It had burned right through at the base and was just dangling from the wires, hovering over the road like a medieval jousting hazard. If you weren’t paying attention, that thing would’ve clocked you right in the head. Bizarre scene. I’ll dig out a picture.

Oh, and the new tires? They got a workout today. More aggressive tread, so yeah, a bit vi than the street tires, but I liked them. They felt solid, no surprises, and as Cal indicated, they should last the rest of the trip and the next one or two.

Note: Tried using the GoPro today. Not a big fan. It’s a hassle, but I might have snagged some decent footage. At the very least, I’ll grab some still shots. It is a yet-to-be-determined accessory at this point.

A Place to Stop
Was going to stop in Tecomán but rolled in early, and it felt too big, too bustling. I was craving the ocean, so I pushed on toward Highway 200 and spied San Juan de Alima on the map. A tiny town with pretty much nothing in it except for seven hotels, a couple of roadside stands, and a huge, wide-open beach.

Don’t get me wrong. I really liked Guadalajara and the surrounding towns. So much history, so much to see. But they were all crowded, touristy, and full of hustle and bustle. That can be fine sometimes, but the vibe I was looking for, maybe San Juan de Alima.

The Hotel, Beach and Good Food
And correct that was. San Juan de Alima is very small and laid back and almost kind of nonexistent if you didn’t want to stop there. In fact, it might even be a tad too chill. Still not sure why all the hotels and accommodation. Maybe this was a slow weekend.

Checked in by 4 PM, and took a long beach walk. Hardly anyone out there except for what seemed mostly some local families. Just perfect.

Wrapped up the day with a fresh fish dinner at a funky little restaurant which is part of the hotel, then called it an evening.

Great day. Got in exactly what I wanted. Just me, the bike, and the road, all enough to keep it interesting.

Plans
Tomorrow, more of Highway 200.



Slideshow:

Coastal Road, Heat, and a Lesson in Stopping Early

Three weeks on the road, folks. When I started this ride, I figured I’d be in Zihuatanejo in about ten plus days. Yeah, twice as long to get here. No regrets, and actually I could have taken longer.

The Ride — Endless Twisties on this Coastal Treat
Left San Juan de Alima and took Highway 200 all the way down to Lázaro Cárdenas. Maybe 120 to 130 miles, but solid, non-stop twisties, with the odd straight stretch thrown in. This stretch of road was pure fun. It would open up to an ocean view, then right back into the curves. Over and over, it was spectacular.

It was hot today, 32°C or 90°F. Not unbearable, but enough that you felt it when you stopped. Not a ton of traffic, but the stuff that was out there was… interesting. A few local trucks that looked like they were held together with zip ties and prayers, then random cows just chilling in the road, and some weird creatures that darted across the pavement faster than I could process. No clue what they were. Hopefully, I’ll figure that out later.

Should’ve / Could’ve Stopped but Didn’t
Came through Caleta de Campos just before noon. That would’ve been the perfect place to stop. Small town, quiet, right on the beach. It had the right vibe.

But nope, I figured I’d push on to Lázaro Cárdenas, thinking, “Ah, it’s just another hour, what’s the harm?”

Lázaro Cárdenas — Wrong Call
Kind of a little mistake. I thought Tecomán was too big and busy. Well, Lázaro Cárdenas is a large industrial port city. Big, busy, fast, dirty, and jammed with endless trucks. Should’ve stayed in the smaller town near the beach, where it was laid back. But nope, I kept going.

Once I got here and settled into a hotel room, I went looking for the malecón, figuring there’d at least be a decent waterfront to check out. Found a sign for Puerto Lázaro Cárdenas, stopped for a picture… then a security guard came over and told me I couldn’t be there.

I tried another route. No luck. Then, in my infinite wisdom, I found another way in, only to be greeted by yet another security guard. He explained that the malecón was “cerrado” (closed). I looked around. There were people jogging, walking, and cars parked everywhere. It didn’t seem closed.

I asked when it would be open. He said, “Mañana.” So, I don’t know if it was closed for real or just closed for me, but either way, that was that.

It did look so interesting and a good place to hang.

Observations on the Coast
Even though I didn’t stop much today, I noticed something about the people here. They’re still friendly, still helpful, but not in the same way as in tourist-heavy areas. Here, it’s different. People are busy, going about their lives, not waiting for tourists to roll through. Not unfriendly, just less engaged.

I stopped on the side of the road at one point, and a guy who had already passed me actually turned around and came back just to make sure I was okay. That’s Mexico. People are generally helpful. But at the same time, it’s clear this part of the coast isn’t built around foreign tourism in the same way as a lot of the spots I have been.

Tomorrow — Getting to Zihuat
Tomorrow, I’ll ride the last 60 miles to Zihuatanejo. Shouldn’t take long. Time to finally roll into the beach town that’s been stuck in my head for years. I will see if I can finally track down Andy and Red.

And you know, for a place that was just a fictional movie spot, I think it was filmed in the USVI, I actually get why someone would say, “If I ever escape, I’m going to that beach in Mexico.”

It just has the real hang-out-with-no-cares, in-a-hut-on-the-beach feeling.