Now that I've had a taste of civilisation and am able to gather my thoughts I'll give a bit of an overview on the road from my perspective. Being on a bicycle there are different sets of challenges than a motorcle though much of it is probably useful information for motorcycles and 4wd. One important thing about the bicycle is you don't travel quickly between the challenges of the road making them less frequent and you are more ready for them.

Congratulations JediMaster and the rest of the crew. I can't count the number of times I thought to myself this is easy on a bicycle, but I wonder how the motorbikes are going to get through. How did you manage with the washed out sections of road soon after Yuktali? There was one spot that I had to climb down into the gully and out the other side with the bike. Did you find a way around it?

The western BAM wasn't too tough a ride via bicycle, but I couldn't expect to make distance quickly. As jedi master points out the weather was very good leading to fairly tame puddles and river crossings. The things that were the worst for me were specific surfaces. Sandy roads are the worst as they drain what little power I have available. On a motored vehicle you add a bit more throttle and it's no problem. I found some sections that would be very easy on a motorcycle quite frustrating because of soft road surfaces. Because of the relatively slow speeds potholes, puddles and rocks jutting out of the road are easy to dodge. There weren't any seriously difficult river crossings to cross on the western BAM and a bicycle is easy to carry. I rarely removed my panniers to cross rivers. The river just after Khani might be the biggest issue for some vehicles due to the large rocks but it isn't hard if you choose the right setup. The most challenging part was probably between Khani and Lopcha. My biggest challenge since the 110 was between stari Chara and nearly chara sands.

For anyone interested in the 110 it is quite a bit more difficult than the western BAM in the conditions I experienced. The lower Barguzin would be a challenging crossing at the best of times. I was fortunate to meet the park rangers as they were paddling an inflatable row boat across with some supplies. I had arrived at very high water which was close to 1m above where plants grew and was very fast flowing. Nothing but a Ural with an experienced driver could cross that (or a boat of course). Past that there were quite a few more river crossings many about mid thigh deep. These would be fairly challenging on a motorcycle. I think the hardest part on a motorcycle was towards the northern end. There are a few sections where the road and a rocky river merge for a few hundred metres. You need to navigate your bike over large rocks and boulders while in a river and some of the rocks are big. I would recommend a very light bike and a few people so the bikes can be lifted over rocks. There is also some deep mud in places and very deep puddles. Be prepared to scout out every puddle or go around through the equally messy bog as they may be deeper than your air intake.

There are many bears on the 110. I was close behind the 4wd at one point when I realised there were bear tracks on the road that had been made more recently than the 4wd tracks. Do some reading on precautions when camping in bear territory.

Having said that a 4wd made it through. There were 5 strong young men and from what I understood they did a shitload of pushing and playing tricks with the jack. They had abandoned their trailer which was stuck in a puddle and they left their 4wd in Novy Uoyan to continue their trip to Chara in the back of a Ural. If they can do it it can be done on a motorcycle with enough determination.

I did the 110 after a couple days of on and off rain which probably means heavy rain in the mountains. It could be easier but it could also be a lot harder. It is only 250km between towns but there is a fair bit of tough roads and 110km of very tough track. I wouldn't expect a motorcycle to be any quicker than a bicycle even if there are hills.

Edit: as for bicycle troubles? Nada. 2 flat tyres in the nearly 40 days (about 35 riding). A bit of preventative maintenance such as liberal application of marine grease to any seals around bearings and swapping a chain after the 110 (I'll put it back on soon).

Off to the eastern bam tomorrow. I expect decent roads for a while slowly declining until zeya where I expect the road conditions to drop off a cliff hitting rock bottom pretty quickly. I just hope my feet hit a rock bottom before I drown in mud. We'll see what happens.

Looking forward to your eastern bam report, we are planning it next year from east to west.
Good luck on your travels.

Mark

They are in Yakutsk now mate.

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Thanks Mark (Harry?)

Got a pm from them earlier. Its probably a good thing they're there. Its been seriously pissing down here and probably on the kolyma highway turning it to serious mud. I would have some great photos of staircases in Tynda looking like waterfalls and the streets like the bam river crossings except I didn't want to take the camera out of the 8 bags I had keeping it dry. It was very good timing to be sitting in a gatsinatsa sipping an and doing some errands/Cafe runs when the rain backs off. Hope things clear up by morning otherwise getting out of Tynda will be just as challenging as the worst of the road so far.

Anyone notice that the Rolling Stones song "gimme shelter" sings what sounds like " whoah Tynda, it's just a shot away, it's just a shot away". Would you believe I noticed that while riding in the rain the day before Tynda? Made me smile despite having ridden in the rain all day.

Arrived back in Severobaykalsk with Felix. Heading east tomorrow/ Thursday. Will aim aim to reach N Uoyan, then Taksimo Friday. Just like bionic man, the TA has been strengthened, lightened and improved upon. It's also been resprayed, but it's still a Trannie as it says so on the side.

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CURRENT RR WITH REGULAR UPDATES: The Wife Takes on Chlamydia: A South American Retrospective

Good luck Chris, and we are waiting for pictures of the "new and improved" trannie

Mark

Seeking 18 inch rear tyre in Tynda or Yakutsk.

Anyone know of a bike shop in either T or Y where I might check if they have the above size ideally a motocross or similar tyre in 18 inch. Any old Chinese stuff will do.

The current Pirelli mt21 appears to be utter shite in terms of wear. It will struggle to reach Magadan. Dean in Moscow can't deliver to there in the time I have.

Trannie mk 2 seems to have gone from 17 to 18 on the back. Dunno why

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CURRENT RR WITH REGULAR UPDATES: The Wife Takes on Chlamydia: A South American Retrospective

There's a couple of pics on fb taken with my phone. Send me a friend request. Uploading pictures from camera to here is a pita when on the move.

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CURRENT RR WITH REGULAR UPDATES: The Wife Takes on Chlamydia: A South American Retrospective

You should check with Max from Tynda: +7 914 556 6990 or Bolot re Yakutsk. I'm sure I have some numbers for Bolot or some bikers in Yakutsk if Max can't help.

solved.....

thank you

Check with Bolot, he is very helpful. Am at work so don't have his info, just google. It is holiday season in Russia, many may be out of town.

Or order your tires from dean, the hubs favorite tire guy in Russia; he delivered mine to Yakutsk.

Hey Tom
Many thanks for these contacts. Just sent Max a sms.

I'll be in UB 23, 24 August. Saw you were shipping bike to UU so assuming you're heading for Mongolia.

Me and Felix arrived in Taksimo today / Fri. Will cross Vitim Bridge tomorrow and aim to be in Tynda early next week.

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Brighty's website: TheBrightStuffDotCom

CURRENT RR WITH REGULAR UPDATES: The Wife Takes on Chlamydia: A South American Retrospective

Hey Tom
Many thanks for these contacts. Just sent Max a sms.

I'll be in UB 23, 24 August. Saw you were shipping bike to UU so assuming you're heading for Mongolia.

Me and Felix arrived in Taksimo today / Fri. Will cross Vitim Bridge tomorrow and aim to be in Tynda early next week.

__________________

Brighty's website: TheBrightStuffDotCom

CURRENT RR WITH REGULAR UPDATES: The Wife Takes on Chlamydia: A South American Retrospective

Ps. Joe and Corrina are here too.

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Brighty's website: TheBrightStuffDotCom

CURRENT RR WITH REGULAR UPDATES: The Wife Takes on Chlamydia: A South American Retrospective

Yeah, flying to UU on the 8th to get my bike, then in UB 10-12 Aug. Doing kind of a loop to Tseterleg up to Khovsgol, then back to Darkhan, then back to UU around the 22nd or so. Maybe I'll see you on the road?