Yep, we just rode the Pamir Highway in September and are now in Kashgar, China headed to the KKH in Pakistan. There is lots of snow and ice over the Torugart Pass from Kyrgyzstan at the moment too.
The Pamir Highway between Khorog and Murgab is in surprisingly good condition, mostly paved with a few gravel stretches over the passes, but the road at the Tajik/Kyrgyz border north of Murgab is pretty bad. There is also a nasty little river crossing between Dushanbe and Khorog and it doesn't look like they are repairing the washed out bridge anytime soon.
BTW, if anyone goes to Tajikistan, don't just do the Pamirs, the road from Khojand in the north to Dushanbe is even more dramatic.
The roads in most of Tajikistan are pretty awful, but are fun on a properly equipped dual-sport bike. Lots of gravel and horribly rutted/potholed asphalt roads. Some of the roughest roads in Central Asia IMO. And it doesn't look like they are doing any repair work on the roads at the present time.
Security in Tajikistan seems to be fine, no problems for us. Everybody was very friendly and welcoming.
I will do a report on the Pamir Highway and the road from Khojand in the near future when I get a bit of time and we will also have more on our blog on HU shortly.
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Dave
www.mototrekker.com
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