Maria,
We went last year and we wanted to do the northern one, which was "closed" due to high rainfall and thus the river being impassable. Yes it happens. This was the part from Tsagaannuur to North side.
So we had to take the southern one, until Khovd it was ok, and then you could either go North again to go to the northern route (we had no info if we could pass or not) or Eastward staying on the southern one which is uttermost CRAP with 400km of washboard and no view and boring. Until the point where we seriously thought what the hell we were doing there after the Russian Altay and Kazakhstan that were both +++ for us.
Anyway in Altai city go North to take the middle route which was great and have a rest in Tsetserleg in the Fairfield guesthouse that is a lot better than oasis in UB in our opinion.
Check everyday all the nuts and bolts on the bikes and you'll be fine, but be sure to be able to do 300km range with your fuel.
All the trucks????? Where did you read/see this?
Maybe we were lucky but we only saw like ten or so in the 3 weeks we were there... ?!
A few 100kliks out of UB the tarmac starts...
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