I rode to and from Labrador just after the road opened, but long before it was extended as far as it is now. For me, there were no real “MUST SEE” sights; mainly a lot of muskeg, not so different from the many thousands of miles of muskeg west of there almost until you hit the Pacific Ocean. The aurora was spectacular whenever it wasn’t cloudy (which it was a lot of the time), but aside from that the highlight for me was flying north to Nain, then taking off on foot with my backpack. There are interesting intersections of cultures (Inuit, Cree, Anglo), interesting post-glacial landscapes, interesting wildlife (a HUGE herd of migratory caribou), and more like that…but it’s not like you go someplace to view this stuff. Mostly it just happens to you while your mind is on other things.

I regret not taking a tour of the hydro facility at Churchill Falls, but I was too restless. I regret not accepting the offer of a job helping the helicopter pilot who was flying around servicing the decommissioning crews on the DEW line stations, but I’d driven from New England and had to get back to my (self-employed) work. Staying more open to chance encounters and experiences would have improved my trip hugely, so that’s what I usually suggest.

Oh, and I sure wished I’d taken more precautions against black flies and mosquitos—the former in particular. Worst I’ve ever experienced anywhere, including Alaska, The Yukon, Churchill, Greenland, the European Arctic.

Hope that’s helpful.

Mark

Hi Mark,
Thanks for that information. We will plan to take the tour of CF.
As for flies, we hope that end of June will be "pre-season". Fingers crossed.

The black flies didn’t seem responsive to repellants—only to robust physical barriers, i.e., thick, tight clothing without any points of entry. They specialized in finding the tiniest of gaps, which meant that even while I sweated profusely in too many clothes, my wrists ended up a mass of bloody welts. Pants I tucked into socks; collars done up tight, with neck gaiter and netting head-dress mandatory.

Maybe I hit the worst possible time—hard to say. I remember trying to take a quick selfie (before that word existed) but becoming so frantic I couldn’t hold the camera steady. Out in the bush I learned to stay high on the scoured bedrock, above the sparse stands of timber below, and to endeavor to always face the breeze—mosquitoes and black flies both hover and attack from downwind.

Funny to hear my own descriptions! I’ve always heard similar from people about Alaska but never found it that bad myself. Probably there’s a lot of dumb luck—or absence thereof—involved. Have fun and report back here!

Markharf: Thanks for the insight on black flies/mosquitoes. We're usually not badly affected, and always use repellent/have long sleeves etc. All the same it's good to be prepared.

OurGSJourney: I suspect that late June is not early enough to avoid them. We were in NWT last year; had few insects on our way north in early June, however on our way south they showed up in force on the day we crossed the Arctic Circle, which was June 17th. I'd guess (and it is a guess) that they're going to be out in mid-June in Labrador too.

OurGSJourney- I concur with Alanymarce (who I might have met in the Yukon) about the black flies in late June. My brother and I were on the Dempster Hwy June 16 - 21 +/-. Blackflies were bad on our way back along the AlCan and Campbell Hwys. It was a late northern Canada spring last year. High concentration deet and a headnet are in order.

Best advice is to take it slow. It's a beautiful ride. Only downside that there less and less gravel road an more paved highway each year.

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June will definitely be black fly season but that can be managed with the head net , snug clothing and staying in the wind if available . When you stop it will take a minute or more before they zero in on you so make the photo quickly and cover up again . Carry DEET repellent .

Yes Labrador has a good amount of tundra , but that IS part of why we go to see it , isn't it ? Pay attention to it while riding sedately and you will be able to appreciate it and catch the nuances of the repeating ridges and water channels in the ' bogs . Have a close look at the plant life , the wild flowers .
Be sure to stop and walk around a bit in the Churchill River valley lower level , below Muskrat Falls where the sandy ground is covered with reindeer moss ,poplar and birch , compared to the plateau a totally contrasting biome .
Get the Nordic architectural vibe of the new towns of Churchill Falls and Lab City , and Fermont
Visit the little fishing towns at the ends of the gravel side roads , like St Lewis, Charlottetown,Pinsent Arm ,and south the old towns are on the main highway as at Mary's Harbour, . Red Bay has the Basque Whaling Museum .

In Quebec do time your ride to take in the guided tour of the Manic Cinq hydro electric dam where you get to see the inside of the actual dam structure as well as the generator halls built into the solid bedrock .
Be sure to fill your tank at Relais Gabriel and if need be , stay the night in a comfy room there .

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