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Photo by Helmut Koch, Vivid sky with Northern Lights, Yukon, Canada

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Helmut Koch,
Camping under Northern Lights,
Yukon, Canada



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  #1  
Old 23 Jan 2023
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Trans-Labrador

Good day,
My wife and I are starting Chapter 1 of our Journey. We live in St. Johns and heading to Labrador, to Fermont Quebec down to Manic Cinq and to Baie Comeau.
We ride 750 and 850GS' respectively.
I think we have a good plan, but looking for advice on MUST SEE stuff. We've doing only once and hate to miss an opportunity.

Appreciate all the help.

Also find us on Insta and YT.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 23 Jan 2023
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Watching - no help I'm afraid however we plan to travel this route later this year so looking forward to insights.
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  #3  
Old 24 Jan 2023
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I rode to and from Labrador just after the road opened, but long before it was extended as far as it is now. For me, there were no real “MUST SEE” sights; mainly a lot of muskeg, not so different from the many thousands of miles of muskeg west of there almost until you hit the Pacific Ocean. The aurora was spectacular whenever it wasn’t cloudy (which it was a lot of the time), but aside from that the highlight for me was flying north to Nain, then taking off on foot with my backpack. There are interesting intersections of cultures (Inuit, Cree, Anglo), interesting post-glacial landscapes, interesting wildlife (a HUGE herd of migratory caribou), and more like that…but it’s not like you go someplace to view this stuff. Mostly it just happens to you while your mind is on other things.

I regret not taking a tour of the hydro facility at Churchill Falls, but I was too restless. I regret not accepting the offer of a job helping the helicopter pilot who was flying around servicing the decommissioning crews on the DEW line stations, but I’d driven from New England and had to get back to my (self-employed) work. Staying more open to chance encounters and experiences would have improved my trip hugely, so that’s what I usually suggest.

Oh, and I sure wished I’d taken more precautions against black flies and mosquitos—the former in particular. Worst I’ve ever experienced anywhere, including Alaska, The Yukon, Churchill, Greenland, the European Arctic.

Hope that’s helpful.

Mark
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  #4  
Old 24 Jan 2023
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Hi Mark,
Thanks for that information. We will plan to take the tour of CF.
As for flies, we hope that end of June will be "pre-season". Fingers crossed.
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Old 24 Jan 2023
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The black flies didn’t seem responsive to repellants—only to robust physical barriers, i.e., thick, tight clothing without any points of entry. They specialized in finding the tiniest of gaps, which meant that even while I sweated profusely in too many clothes, my wrists ended up a mass of bloody welts. Pants I tucked into socks; collars done up tight, with neck gaiter and netting head-dress mandatory.

Maybe I hit the worst possible time—hard to say. I remember trying to take a quick selfie (before that word existed) but becoming so frantic I couldn’t hold the camera steady. Out in the bush I learned to stay high on the scoured bedrock, above the sparse stands of timber below, and to endeavor to always face the breeze—mosquitoes and black flies both hover and attack from downwind.

Funny to hear my own descriptions! I’ve always heard similar from people about Alaska but never found it that bad myself. Probably there’s a lot of dumb luck—or absence thereof—involved. Have fun and report back here!
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  #6  
Old 24 Jan 2023
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Markharf: Thanks for the insight on black flies/mosquitoes. We're usually not badly affected, and always use repellent/have long sleeves etc. All the same it's good to be prepared.

OurGSJourney: I suspect that late June is not early enough to avoid them. We were in NWT last year; had few insects on our way north in early June, however on our way south they showed up in force on the day we crossed the Arctic Circle, which was June 17th. I'd guess (and it is a guess) that they're going to be out in mid-June in Labrador too.
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