I wonder if anyone has updates or advice for me, as I'm trying to plan a May 2018 trip to Algeria, focused on the Sahara. I know it's getting hot in May, but I actually want that, as it feels right for the Sahara, and it won't quite be up to maximum temps yet.

Currently, based on reading helpful posts on here as well as an extensive trip report of a biking trip near Djanet about a month ago (anyone from that trip on this forum??) my thinking and my questions are as follows:


1. Driving to the South. I am still open to the idea of flying in to the South, but I'd kind of prefer to drive all the way down. Feels like the right way to see the Sahara, driving 2000km into the desert and feeling the scale of the place... However, I know escorts are necessary in places, and I don't know much about the status of the routes from Algiers, apart from the TSH, which sounds OK.

Additionally, I assume this isn't possible, but if anyone could confirm whether or not it's possible to hire a car in the North and drop it off in the South and fly back, that would be great.

2. Hiring a guide. If I want to drive down, and it is possible, at which point do I need to have a guide with me? I know I probably need one (or more) for the desert itself, but can I just arrange for the guide(s) to join me in Djanet? Also, is there a way to go about selecting a guide who will allow for a degree of freewheeling exploration...?

3. Not going to Tamanrasset. I know Tam is probably a bad idea, as it seems it is very tightly controlled by police, no freedom, escorts everywhere you go, and only a very small area open. I would love to go to Assekrem, but based on this article,

Tamanrasset:Les agences de tourisme sont poussées à la fermeture - Tamoudre: Touaregs, vie et survie

and other reports, I guess it is probably not worth it. Can anyone confirm this, and also that it is not possible to drive from Djanet to Tam or vice versa.

4. Climbing Saharan mountains. Has anyone climbed or at least visited any of the mountains in the Djanet area, and do you know if they're in currently accessible areas. I'd love to have a go at Mount Tazat or Mount Tiska, as I've read favourable reports. Not too concerned if it's not possible to summit, but I'd love just to have a go and also to spend time in those areas, which sound spectacular.

5. Timing. I have two weeks, which I can possibly stretch by a couple of days, so any thoughts on timing, what's realistic to fit in, whether I might have time for Constantine or other northern areas would be welcome. I kind of hoped to see Timimoun and Ghardaia as well, but I guess that's probably asking too much and there simply won't be time.

6. Visa. Finally, any info on visas would be helpful. I imagine my entry and exit dates will need to be stated precisely on my application, but are other dates (driving from x to y, and y back to x, etc.) also rigid? And can I get a letter of invitation from a hotel or agency in the North and then still go to the South?


Thanks very much in advance and sorry for the long post. Extensive, up to date info is hard to come by for Algeria, yet it seems important. Any help at all would be appreciated!

No advice for you as i haven't been yet but will be really keen to hear how things progress. I was considering a similar trip in the autumn but for work reasons ended up not having the time, so plan on backburner for now.

It may be me if you are referring to my trip report on advrider

I'll say this first to save you reading: a lot of newbs rightly get excited about visiting the amazing Sahara of Algeria until they realise the complications, expense and current restrictions in doing so, especially if not in a group. Sadly Algeria is not just another easily won tick on the backpacking trail. People who were there in the good days (as with most of us on the Feb moto tour) don't mind the effort and expense as we know it's almost worth it

Unless you are used to heat I would not recommend May or beyond.
We were just in Mauritania where it was over 40 most days (unusual for March, I admit). Eventually it just plain wears you out (and if you're not careful, makes you ill), leaving little energy to explore, etc.

1. There are really only 2 highways open to the south: the TSH to Tam you mention; and the N3 to Djanet. In my opinion the N3 is a more interesting drive and accessible via Tunisia (fewer northern checkpoints and exposure), but as a first timer N1 has some good spots except you cannot go off road apart from Assekren and back (overnighter). The N6 to the Mali border will be closed (to you) at Adrar or Reggane where the tar largely ends anyway, and you can't take the N50 to Tindouf.

One-way car hire, or even just regular car hire for foreigners; never heard of that there.
Alg is not like other countries; more like Iran.
Much cheaper would be to fly in and then get driven where you want to go at €100/day.
Plenty of agencies can do that for you in Djanet area and maybe around Timmimoun too.

2. Escort ('guide') needed border to border if in a foreign car. May require gendarmerie escort too. The same guide will know the desert as the agencies are from there, but - apart from Assekrem out of Tam - you can only leave the highway on the southern N3 (which just happens to be a spectacular area).

3. Can't drive from Djanet to Tam or vice versa these days, unfortunately. Assekrem is well worth visit but much cheaper to fly to Tam, bang it out in a weekend with an agency and fly home. Despite what I suspect that article says, there will always be agencies in Tam who couid do that for you.

4. Mount Tazat accessible; Tiska probably not. Telertheba and Garet el Djenoun are other great climbs further west but also not currently accessible.

6. Visa is all tied in with your agency invite/permit/escort. Much depends on your nationality.

A. there are few genuine agencies in the north [who know the south] and b: no. The Grand Sud beyond a certain line (In Salah on N1) is closed for foreigners without escorts. Even on a bus.

To see the Algerian Sahara better to just fly in to Illizi wilaya (province) and explore the region we did in Feb as a passenger in a 4x4.
Or DIY in Mauritania with far fewer self-driving restrictions and complications (no escorts, for example).

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Wolfman, you will not get better advice than from Chris Scott.
Ignore or go counter to that advice and you're on your own.
All I can do is to confirm that advice and suggest you fly to Djanet, visit the Tassili N'Ajjer - give yourself a good week up on the plateau - be sure to include Sefar & Djabbaren, all using a local guide & agency, and thus obtaining your visa. Assekrem is over-rated, and currently over-officiated.
You could do worse than go next year instead which would give you far more time to research. Chris is right; Algeria is more like Iran or any other closed/difficult country to visit. So, yes, I am being brutally honest; perhaps you need more time to consider this. For those of us who have visited Algeria many times, love the country, love the people, it is a very frustrating administration....to say the least! And why folk who just want to relax and travel in the desert now choose Mauritania. You would not be going to Libya right now, would you? These things are all relative, and Algeria is relatively hard work, imho.

I have climbed Tahat. The highest mountain in the biggest country in Africa! Sounds good, eh? It's not a climb. It's a walk with about 200m scrambling grade 1 or 2 if you go out of your way to find challenging moves. It is arduous, can be hot & dusty, I set off before dawn to be down by lunch, having camped as close as we could get the 4x4. I hired a driver/cook & guide, and 4x4, in Tam. It was a very expensive indulgence.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Escalade-Sa...a+thomas+dulac

If you do get up on the plateau of Tassili N'Ajjer please do not miss the trees older than the Bible: Cupressus Dupreziana, iirc, in Tamrit gorge - you can actually see them on Google Earth!

Enough for now, I should be working on my Troopy

Actually plateau top is currently closed I hear.
A Jabbaren rock art day trip may be possible (well worth it).

Otherwise:
Tadrart open
Foot of Tassili north of road open to Essendilene
West of Tazat and Afara (pic below) open as far as Tamajert and beyond - great area.
South of Admer open (sand sheet)
See advrider report for all this area.

Graveyard piste possibly open west of Illizi as far as Tifernine Erg and Ta Haft canyon. (Got a message yesterday from a guide who says he was in Tifernine region).

I agree Assekrem is comparatively over-rated - a single spot compared to list above.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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Firstly, thanks all for your very helpful responses. I've been so busy and wanted to write a proper reply, hence the delay. I wouldn't dream of ignoring anything said here, least of all @Chris Scott's posts. Incidentally, your report on your bike trip earlier this year was superb. Couldn't stop reading (and drinking in the photography).

I appreciate @budric's suggestion that I should take more time to plan and go next year instead. I would say, however, that I've been looking at this for at least the past month, I've read everything I can find, and by the sounds of things, there may be a bit less to plan than previously thought. So my thoughts and queries after reading all responses:

Car hire - While I've read a couple of reports of ppl hiring and driving around the Northern half, down to Ghardaia, I have no solid, recent evidence of such a trip all the way to the South, so I'm willing to discard that.

Timing and booking - So if self-driving is out, then arranging flights to the South and a tour from there ought to be easier to arrange, and manageable within 5-6 weeks I think? Additionally, it does occur to me that the situation may not necessarily get better and may even get worse in the next year. If this stunning area of the South is open and considered 'safe' to travel by the Algerian authorities currently, then perhaps this is actually a good opportunity to go while it's possible.

I take your point about going in May, but I'm still inclined to think it's worth it, particularly if it's the first half of the month. Djanet averages seem to max out at about 36 in May, whichis obviously very hot, but not unmanageable. I have also spent considerable time in various very hot places, and I generally like/cope well with heat. Also, as I said before, provided it's not consistently ludicrous, as in 50 degrees, then I think I'd like to experience the Sahara when it's really hot. I mean, it's the Sahara... feels right for it to be at least a bit punishing... Anywhere higher than Djanet outhgt to be a couple of degrees cooler too. Unless you strongly advise against it, I wouldn't see this as a deal breaker.

Itinerary - All suggestions are noted, some were already on 'the list'. Would love to do Tahat for being the highest, and from what I read, Tazat may be more complicated to summit, but ultimately that's not the critical part of the endeavour. I would enjoy just having a crack at it and gaining some altitude. Otherwise, I think if I flew into the South for a week and had 5 or 6 days in the desert, that would work well and at 100 euros per day, it sounds reasonably affordable.

It is a shame if Tassili N'Ajjer is still closed, but it sounds like there is plenty still accessible.

This leaves the question of whether to plan provisionally to fly to Illizi or to Djanet. Could one fly into one and out of the other... and spend the tour slowly winding from one to the other...?

Alternatives - I would love to head to Mauritania at some point, and I'm absolutely sure it has much to offer, but from what I've seen, the Sahara in this part of Algeria is stunning on a different level, while the cultural offerings in the North are also that much more appealing. As for the mention of Libya, no I wouldn't go now, but I also don't think Libya is comparable to Algeria from what I can tell - far less stable.



So this all leaves the remaining key questions (and I'm sure others will occur):

1. You mentioned nationality being a key concern for visas. I'm British, in London. From what you know, am I likely to get a visa reliably within 2-4 weeks?

2. Can anyone suggest any agencies / guides in Djanet or Illizi, and pass on any useful contact details? If it's possible to PM and you'd prefer to do that, please feel free.


Once again, thanks so much to all, and particularly Chris Scott. Feel lucky to have someone so experienced and knowledgeable offering this kind of detailed advice so willingly. I really appreciate it!

Glad my post was useful and you liked the adv report; great pix aren't hard to shoot in Alg.

I think I know one of the people you're referring too; are you sure she was not driven to Ghardaia but perhaps played that fact down?.

Anything's possible of course, but I don't know what you base that info on. Seems reasonably stable to be while there is over-the-border mayhem all around.

Well Atar averages were even lower than that earlier this month, but turned out 10° higher, but a lot depends on individuals, past experience and coping strategies.

Bare in mind that banging about in a heat in a fourbie is rather grim.
It's not that great in the cool either unless you're at the wheel, so maybe consider a camel trek for all or part of it. For example Djanet to Essendilene (slide show). There and back was 6 nights? but you could be picked up at Essendilene. Very nice landscapes (we rode similar on the bikes in Feb; camels go further north).

Either will do. Djanet is a bigger town and historically more touristy than Illizi (this is all relative these days). Your itinerary will be dependent on flights which may thin out in May to 2 a week?
Also, check internal flight timings with Air Alg; to get to Illizi both ways we had to spend a costly night in Algiers both ways (1000D taxi ride to an €80 Ibis nearby).
On previous occasion you could fly from UK to Algiers, hang about, change planes and be in Djanet same day (or early next morning).

1. We Brits got our visas in a week last November. Like I say, much might depend on the agency.

2. See my list here. Others may have suggestions

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This is the car hire story I was thinking of. I think I saw at least one other elsewhere:

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntr...ip-to-ghardaia

A faff paying for extra kms, but incredibly cheap petrol makes up for it.

I didn't mean to suggest that I have reason to expect it will get worse. Just that any assumption (if anyone held one) that things can only improve from the currently awkward and restricted status isn't really sound. Ultimately it seems like a good opportunity if any of these really interesting areas are open when they're located right in the middle of such an immensely troubled and volatile region.

These are great points/suggestions. A camel trek for a few days, followed by a different route driving back, and maybe a stop to do some climbing/scrambling, could work very nicely... Don't know what's realistic though. Is a camel trek going to be possible for one person? Or just very expensive? I really need to start speaking to someone on the ground to find out what's possible.

Re flights, there seem to be enough options. Just looking for ways to fly both ways on 737-700s and newer... since I'm irrationally suspicious of Air Algerie and their old 737s and even more their ATR-72s... Staying in Algiers isn't really a problem, since I intend to do that anyway and want to see some of northern Algeria.

Thanks for the info on visas and agencies. Going to contact those in the next couple of days.