Sorry, don't mean to hi jack this post and Stans info, but from my experience of Morocco over the course of 5 visits just a few pointers that may be usefull.

Go in via Cueta rather than Tangier, less hassle. Ignore all of the hustlers offering to help out side the border gates, but when thru into the border zone its worth paying one of the "official" minders if you want to speed the paperwork process up, especially if you don't speak good French or the local lingo.

The Rif Mountains are beautifull, but you will get hassled non stop by hash sellers, especially in Ketema. If that puts you off don't go via the Ketema route.

Moroccan tum or Moroccan bum is best avoided by only eating stuff you can peel, boil or burn! Bottled water is best and avoid ice cubes in drinks or salads as both are invariably made of or washed with local water. Sorry if i'm stating the obvious.

As Stan says the advance of tarmac is relentless out past Erg Chebbi and also the road thru Todra Gorge towards Imilchil in the Atlas Mountains is being tarmacced now, although the winter rains had washed away some of the tarmac road in Todra itself last time i was there.

Also there is petrol on the piste from Merzouga to Zagora in a village about 25 kms on from the Auberge at Ouzina on route to Zagora (can't check the name because the map i lent out has been lost!!!!!!!!!!!! moral of the story don't lend maps out)the petrol station consists of some 50 gallon drums and they fill up your bikes with empty whisky bottles and the likes, look for the mud building with "Essence" painted on the side as you come into the village.

There is also petrol in the town of Oum-Jrane where you can either carry onto Zagora or nead towards tarmac on the N12 and the Jbel Sarhro.

Hope that helps a little.

[This message has been edited by BDG (edited 16 March 2006).]

[This message has been edited by BDG (edited 16 March 2006).]