Two years(!) ago I got stamped out of Kayes, drove through Kankossa and Kiffa where they wouldn't give me a visa (but Kiffa did customs for my vehicle). They both told me to go to Nouakchott. No problem getting a visa in Nouakchott (with no questions or hassles) or actually driving north through the entire country and into WS without a visa it seems. Though if something goes wrong it won't be fun.
Make sure you buy car/bike insurance as that is what they check on the roads in-between (available in Kiffa).
So if really stuck check out of Kayes and try it like that. But better to get before hand as always, saves the stress I had.
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