Experiences in CAR
RORO,
The Chad-CAR border was very slow, about 6 hours. This was mainly as they didn't have a clue what they were supposed to do (CAR side) and had to contact someone else in another town. Other than the delays, it was ok.
The CAR-Sudan border was also very slow, it took us about 4 hours one day, then they dissapeared and then it took a further 4 or so hours the next morning. The CAR side was awful, we were threatened with guns on 2 occasions and were extorted left right and centre. You are made to feel as though there is little choice but to pay up. The Sudan side was much nicer, we were offered tea and happily pointed in the right direction. Forget about Carnets in CAR, they barely knew what to do with a passport, let alone anything more than that. Sudan knew what they were doing, albeit they were slow.
The Sudan-Uganda border was much quicker than the rest at 2 hours, and most of that was chatting to the guards. Carnet was stamped into Uganda, no problems.
We would not attempt this route again, and be under no illusion, it was not exactly pleasant. In Chad we only really experienced small scale corruption amongst officials. In CAR though, we were ripped off by everyone we came across, except for a few Missionaries. We were constantly cautious about who we approached etc. We were followed by bandits for (what seemed like) a good while, about 50km out of Bangui. They were shouting at us in an aggressive manner and one of them fired shots into the air. We have no idea why they decided to turn around, as they could have quite easilly overtaken our large vehicle in their pickup, despite the rutted road, although we are just thankful they went away.
There are quite alot of checkpoints along the route, and we got ripped off at all of them. The presence of guns if quite intimidating at times, especially when they get a bit agressive. Neither of us have any notable command of the French language, and in hindsight, this was very fourtunate, as on many occasions we were able to leave a situation because we didn't have a clue what was being said etc. At the border with Sudan, we refused to pay a demand for US$1000 and were threatened with guns (counting to 3 in an ultimatum style to get us to pay), this happened twice. In the end we paid $100 and they were satisfied. We have heard stories similar to this from other travellers in the region, and have now witnessed first hand how hostile it is in this area. In Sudan we were not hasseled like we were in CAR, there were no requests for bribes, and the gaurds were friendly so we offered them to take lunch with us, and we had a good time. The locals in the southern region were not too friendly, and my wife had a fistful of pebbles thrown at her by a small child, whilst it's mother looked on in approval (luckilly the child was not too forceful). Other than that, there were no major problems for us.
I would certainly not reccomend this route unless you are prepared to put up and deal with all of what I have described above. All in all, I think we were ripped off by about $1500-2000 from leaving Chad to arriving in Uganda. I will write this up into a report with pictures over Christmas and post it up somewhere, and include more detail on a day-to-day basis.
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