Quote:
Originally Posted by liammons
It is easier to keep a vehicle with minimum electronics running for longer. All the electronic gizmos fail over time due to corrosion, gradual breakdown and increasing fragility of PVC or other plastic parts including the coating on all the (MILES) of wires themselves.
After all that, there remain all the mechanical failures that a vehicle with no electronics can also have. People seem to forget that, even with 5000 sensors, your chassis can still crack or a radiator hose can still burst etc etc.
|
Yes, there's certainly a lot of logic in that argument, and it's been repeated often enough by people that have 'been there and done it' that I'm seriously considering that option.
On the flip side however, I'm also not averse in theory to newer 100/200 series. Yes, there is more to go wrong, but they're also newer and lower miles..... there are still plenty of people using them for overlanding without seemingly any major issues cropping up so far.
Quote:
If you buy a structurally and mechanically sound base vehicle such as an 80 series (running well and not rotten with rust, NOT necessarily mint) and throw 10k at restoring it, you will have a very tight vehicle indeed. 15k for a 100 series that cost 50k+ new means someone else already got 35K of use out of it, its far from new.
|
That's essentially the main decision really.
Which is the better option..... I see the arguments on both sides.
The main factor for me though is as close to bulletproof reliability as I can get.
Ease of fixing it in the wilderness is second to that, as although I'm pretty much mechanically illiterate (despite a fair bit of previous motorsport involvement) so would be reliant on getting it to a repair facility, I do see the argument that finding someone able to work on an 80 series might be easier than finding someone able to competently repair a newer one.
Quote:
Its beyond me how you could spend 40k prepping a vehicle. Where are these people going, the moon??
|
In a previous life I managed a big corporate's involvement in both a rally raid team and international group N campaign, and we never spent that much on preparing one. Although to be fair, we didn't expect them to last beyond a few races before rebuild either.
But you still see the ads.... Hence why I'm here and asking questions.
Quote:
With an 80 for example;
replace the rad, hoses, water pump and flush the cooling.
service the front and rear axles and the drive line.
service the engine.
put decent suspension on it.
put decent new tyres on it.
stick on some form of a bullbar (in case you hit wildlife/livestock).
throw a few jerrycans in the back for diesel and water.
Total cost of doing all this with proper Toyota parts except for the suspension, tyres and Bullbar, 5-7k. Labour, I would guess another 2/3k; but make sure whoever does it knows what they are doing.
|
All good advice.
I'd be planning to try and get someone like Julian Voelcker to overhaul the truck completely. His reputation seems to be spot on and I see he's a mod on here as well, so hopefully he'll be along shortly to offer advice.
LOL
I don't mind toys if they help with comfort at my age....
Been there and done that on the bike front, and spent more than enough time sleeping in tents in the desert on raids and getting woken by the bikes at 5:00 am....
But it's not just me now, and the wife requires a certain level of creature comforts these days. Especially if we're living in it for a couple of years.
Quote:
When you look at these 40k spent vehicles, you wonder where the money was spent.... toys usually..... and then you wonder how much of the worthwhile stuff was done properly (use Toyota parts, NEVER rubbish pattern partsfor essential stuff, they are cheap for a reason usually)
|
Absolutely.
My mantra is to keep the mechanicals as close to factory spec as possible, and rebuild anything needing it using only original Toyota parts.
Toyota spends hundreds of millions developing and testing these vehicles to try and keep their reputation for reliability and ability to go anywhere.... It's
very unlikely many aftermarket suppliers can equal that.
Quote:
Instead of paying someone to do all this, learn to do it yourself, even if you have to pay someone to teach you a bit of it. The factory service manuals are available for free in .pdf online, more basic manuals can be bought on amazon etc which will be easier for those with a non mechanical background (the FSM's assume you have a reasonable basic knowledge of mechanics). That way you'll know it was done right and if anything does break you;ll be able to diagnose the problem and most likely be confident fixing it.
All the above applies if you buy a 60 series and 80 series or even a 100 series.
|
Thanks, good advice.
Can't emphasise enough how mechanically ungifted I am though, so while I'm certainly happy to try and learn, I'll still be trying to buy reliability as a primary objective.