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Light Overland Vehicle Tech Tech issues, tips and hints, prepping for travel
Under 3500kg vehicles, e.g. Land Cruiser, Land Rover, Subaru etc.
Photo by Igor Djokovic, camping above San Juan river, Arizona USA

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Igor Djokovic,
camping above San Juan river,
Arizona USA



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  #16  
Old 1 Jun 2016
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I would suggest you use up the oldest tyres first. Then fit pairs of new ones keeping a pair as spare and use them to replace worn out tyres and load two new spares then. I think it would be foolish to keep old tyres for any longer than necessary, certainly not as spares unless nothing else was available. If practical, buy another wheel so both spares are mounted and ready to go.
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  #17  
Old 2 Jun 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bertrand View Post
Rotation' may have been the wrong word to use Mogs as I meant moving the better tyres to the front in a straight line. My bad! This method was advised for my 4x4 by the manufacturer which I have to go with. It makes sense as my front brakes do most of the braking and because of steering. In a situation where 4x4 drive is needed it would make little difference.
I use theBFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO2 which are 'S' rated. Works for me.
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Ah I'm with you, I think, so you swap the fronts to the back? that makes more sense. ON most rwd cars the rears wear first because of wheelspin and a naturaL tendency to slight oversteer, but on most 4x4s thats not really an issue!! So I guess the fronts might wear a little quicker for the reasons you give.
the main thing is not to swap from one side to the other as they used to advise with the old cross plies, because, especially with off road tyres, your leading edge now becomes your trailing edge and vice versa and wear rate increases
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  #18  
Old 4 Jun 2016
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Have used the BFG MT for decades, The old pattern lasted longer , but the new pattern in slightly quieter at speed on bitumen. Tyre pressure monitoring is very important for longevity . Under inflation is worse than over inflation . You can check if you are at right pressure for a given load by checking the pressure change , you are looking for a 4psi rise from cold (before use) to stabilised in use. less of a rise is too hard to start , more of a rise is too low before use. Ideally tubeless , and take t/less repair kit , and also tyre levers , and compressor. Weight is your enemy so 1 mounted spare , plus 1 unmounted tyre casing , also a tube for when its not possible to tubeless repair . I went all the way UK to Oz without any tyre problem
In Oz lost one tyre to a star picket (steel fence post) that had been graded into the road surface , that one wasnt tubeless repairable
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  #19  
Old 9 Jun 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacr2man View Post
Have used the BFG MT for decades, The old pattern lasted longer , but the new pattern in slightly quieter at speed on bitumen. Tyre pressure monitoring is very important for longevity . Under inflation is worse than over inflation . You can check if you are at right pressure for a given load by checking the pressure change , you are looking for a 4psi rise from cold (before use) to stabilised in use. less of a rise is too hard to start , more of a rise is too low before use. Ideally tubeless , and take t/less repair kit , and also tyre levers , and compressor. Weight is your enemy so 1 mounted spare , plus 1 unmounted tyre casing , also a tube for when its not possible to tubeless repair . I went all the way UK to Oz without any tyre problem
In Oz lost one tyre to a star picket (steel fence post) that had been graded into the road surface , that one wasnt tubeless repairable
Bit of a late reply - sorry!

Thanks for the info, tacr2man.

You'll be please to hear we have a new set of BFG MTs being delivered in the next few days

Out of interest - what PSI did you run your MTs at when on the road?

Thanks!
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