Hi Dan the 130 chassis is a big thing to mess with, and soooooo heavy to move around, you will need a good trolley jack or a supply of good mates
Whatever the company tells you about holes being re-tapped before you pick it up forget it, you need to do it yourself (before trying to put the bolts in )
I had a problem with a cross member that runs just behind the seatbox, it fouled the corner of the battery box as it was slightly different to the original shape of x member, I cut the corner of the box and welded it up.
Also when you have to fit the gearbox x member I was concerned about the amount I had to jack the chassis rails apart (nearly25mm), but they didn,t seem bothered when I phoned then.

Apart from those chassis probs most of the rebuild went ok, I was fortunate enough to have a brand new front and rear bulkhead (its a single cab) and its just a matter of keeping the enthusiasm going. If you can buy all new stuff its a lot easier than rebuilding and repairing thins as you go along, but my budget didn,t allow that, so it was a case of strip the old part off the donor vehicle, check it out and fit it as truthfully as you can.
I had my chassis in the garage facing outwards and my donor on the driveway facing it, that seemed to work ok.
When you fit the rear suspension A-frame you need to be real careful lining it up correctly as if you get the one side a couple of mm out of line the leverage and lengths etc will move your axle over by 30-40mm.

I didnt rebuild my axles as I thought they were just too far gone, I sourced a couple of much newer ones off a late model 110and just swapped them over, but I,m sure you can find a nut by nut guide to rebuilding the axles, bearings etc in the Land Rover workshop manual.

Looking like a milk delivery truck=


working on the driveway


Gaz