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Light Overland Vehicle Tech Tech issues, tips and hints, prepping for travel
Under 3500kg vehicles, e.g. Land Cruiser, Land Rover, Subaru etc.
Photo by Igor Djokovic, camping above San Juan river, Arizona USA

I haven't been everywhere...
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Photo by Igor Djokovic,
camping above San Juan river,
Arizona USA



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  #1  
Old 1 Sep 2015
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Automatic 4x4s in snow / ice?

I've clocked up more than 200,000 kilometres in my 1993 Hilux, it's a great car for (solo) travel; light, rugged and very capable. But in my next trips I want to head to the Russian Far East in the middle of winter, and I need a car with a petrol engine. I've had my Hilux diesel in Russia down to -25ºC in Russia without any problems, but I think getting to -40ºC would be no-go, and there is nothing worse when travelling than a vehicle you can't trust.

Anyway, I've seen a good candidate car, but it is automatic. My gut feeling has always been to avoid them as they use more fuel (not much of an issue now), are far harder to repair, and are in my opinion totally unnecessary outside of the city.

So my question is, how good is an automatic off-road? Specifically in snow?

Anyone here who has experience of using an auto 4x4 in very low temperature conditions?

Thanks!

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Old 1 Sep 2015
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Something like 80% of all Land Rover Discovery 4x4s are automatic and I've never had any trouble with mine in off-tarmac conditions.

Don't think it knows the difference between snow and mud.
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Old 1 Sep 2015
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The coldest temperature I've run our Discovery 2 auto here in Canada is -46 C with wind-chill on top it was -55 C, no issues whatsoever, but we have block heaters on most of our vehicles here - you remove a blanking plate, insert what looks like basically a small kettle element that bolts in and you plug into a power outlet, which heats the coolant and it moves around the engine block with convection. This also saves a huge amount of wear and tear on the engine during cold starts and warm up.

There's a whole bunch of other things you can do for when it gets really cold including heated battery blankets, transmission oil heaters etc etc, you can also use a 0 or a 5 weight oil that will actually flow when cold (I use 5 weight in the Disco in Winter) which helps a lot when trying to start the vehicle - much less internal resistance. Also a radiator muff will help keep some heat in the coolant as you drive ( and some heat in the cab!). With diesel engines over here they normally have a heating system on the tanks and the fuel lines.

Ive seen people rig their vehicles with all of the electrical heaters that plug in to mains power and then when they are out in the bush, carry a small petrol generator that they leave running when the engine is off, just to keep it warm, this might be an option too.

I would weigh up the costs of prepping your proven Hilux against buying and preparing another gas/petrol powered vehicle - as long as you can pick up diesel with the correct anti waxing additives then its really not a big issue.

As for snow performance of an auto transmission, they give gentle torque delivery, reducing wheel spin and snatching loads on the drive train, the only place where they really are not as good as a manual box is for direct engine braking on steep descents due to the slip in the torque converter (on a conventional auto box) but with a good HDC system this is not a problem.

The auto box is not the issue in snow and ice - traction is, what tyres do you intend to use ?


If you are using a vehicle with oil filled live beam axles use synthetic multigrade gear oil, again so it flows easily when cold.
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  #4  
Old 1 Sep 2015
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Not much difference between automatic and manual shift in any condition in my opinion. Manual is good if you get stuck in the mud other than that no difference.
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Old 1 Sep 2015
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The only problems with auto are
1. you cant tow start,
2. depending on the build they cannot be recovery flat towed any great distance ( neutral in transfer case if available solves this problem)
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Old 2 Sep 2015
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Biggest problem with an auto is the if you develop a problem with the box your dead in the water so to speak.

Barring a catastrophic gearbox failure in a manual you will manage to get it moving in some gear at least.

Cluthes usually give some warning of failure (unless you do something rally stupid) torque converters don't.

As regards driving in snow, or ice, it doesnt make much difference really though.
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Old 5 Sep 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacr2man View Post
The only problems with auto are
1. you cant tow start,
2. depending on the build they cannot be recovery flat towed any great distance ( neutral in transfer case if available solves this problem)
You can tow start them, you just need some speed, maybe 20mph.
This may not work with newer electronically controlled boxes though.

Although I have a manual my preference would always be an auto. Once you've adjusted your driving style and educated your left foot to not stamp on the brake pedal they are far smoother, less stress on the drive train and even without a hill decent system they are fine on steep descents.

The torque converter acts as a torque multiplication and specifically in snow they are more controllable. I'm talking about vehicles without electronic traction / stability control here. The electronics level things such that I doubt you'd notice any difference.
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