Thanx Guys for your effort. Great stuff!

I have an 07 640 Adventure, while I dream of riding RTW with it. It won't be anytime soon. But I've managed to rack up 25,000 miles thus far.

On the 07 the front axle nut and the rear are not the same size.

Several weeks ago, I had problems with the bike stalling when rolling on the throttle. It was the ignition system and this tool helped me to determine that it wasn't the carb. I had plenty of spark when at idle, but under any load, it was weak and sporadic. The connection between the plug wire and the spark plug cap was green with corrosion.

Amazon.com: Lisle 20610 Inline Spark Tester: Automotive

If the light looks bright and steady when the misfire occurs, then the problem is in carburetion. If it goes out when the misfire occurs, then the problem is with the ignition. There are all kinds of ways of doing this and you can use different tools, like plug caps with lights on them. The big thing is being able to see when the spark occurs... or doesn't occur.

I trimed about 1/4" off the wire and reattached the spark plug cap.



The soda bottle trick is great for a fuel cell when the tanks off.



The trick for clearing clogged jets does work as descsribe in the below link.
Randakk's Cycle Shakk - Honda GL1000 Specialist: GL1000 GL1100 Tech Tip#83

daryl

27m at the back, 32mm up front on my 07.

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Alright, alright, you got me. I'll edit the post above - 27mm front and rear for pre-07 LC4's. If your bike has two different sizes, I'd recommend getting the MotionPro T6 lever in the bigger size of the two along with the 3/8" drive insert, and then take a socket for the smaller size.

dlh62c - thanks for your input, and nice pics. One thing I noticed is that you're missing the foam strips on the side of your radiator. No biggie, but should you run into overheating problems at some point, this might be the reason. Without the foam, not all the air is forced through the ratiator and may bypass it (along the tank). Here's a pic of my bike, note the foam strip on the radiator. Also note the KTM Military has 8mm hex bolts on the valve covers, rather than ?mm alan screws, which makes working with them a lot easier, because you don't need so much space. Maybe worth changing, especially if you're springing for the ratchet wrenches ...

Sorry... I wasn't pointing out any type of error on your part.

Currently I carry the two Motion Pro T6-combo levers of 27mm and 32mm that you recommend. Using the tire spoon ends, I always....always pinch a tube. I never do using irons with the lip on the ends. I'm looking forward to Grant's tire changing DVD. I'm sure you can teach an old dog a new trick or too.

Other than a Rekulse auto clutch and a 17 tooth counter sprocket, the bikes stock regarding the carb, air box and exhaust. I plan to keep it that way.

I've had the fan kick in, while stopped, on very hot days. But the bikes never overheated. I'll keep the foam mod in mind.

You guys have done a great job!

daryl

I'll add a couple thread links from Adventure rider that are not in the thread index ... These threads should be helpful to those who wan't to go beyond basic maintenance...

I documented my last service in this thread:640s 127,000 service - ADVrider

And Tseta has a very informative thread going here:Three times the fun! (LC4 HOWDID) - ADVrider

Although not an LC4 640 owner, I serviced a friends 640 Enduro recently and showed him how to adjust the valves accurately without feeler gauges. It's a trick shown to me by a Husaberg owning friend which applies to many KTM's with screw & locknut valve adjustment, I use it on my 400EXC.

Find TDC on the compression stroke as normal.

The pitch of the adjuster screw is 0.75mm which means that for one full rotation of the screw, it will rise or fall by 0.75mm.

Slacken the locknut by a turn or two max and slowly wind the adjuster screw in until it just touches the rocker arm.

There's a slot in the top of the screw, whilst holding the screw in place, slowly rotate the locknut until a corner of the nut aligns with either end of the slot i.e. there are three "nut flats" either side of the slot.

Then holding the nut in place, slowly rotate the screw outwards (anti-clockwise" 1/6th of a turn i.e. until the slot aligns with the next set of nut corners. Hold screw tight and do the locknut up as normal.

If done correctly, you'll now have a valve clearance of 0.125mm i.e. 1/6th of 0.75mm is 0.125mm. I believe that KTM used to recommend a clearance of 0.15mm but that dealers are now recommending 0.12mm? The above method gives an extra 0.005mm (5/1000th) of clearance which is nothing.

My friend was sceptical until I asked him to check the clearance for himself. If I can produce an comprehendable diagram, I'll post it up.

Edit:

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VERY USEFUL INFO, THANKS M
MUCHAS GRACIAS OBRIGADO GRAZIE MILLE!
rg