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Photo by Ulrike Hahnel, Rock Formations on the Lagune Route, Bolivia

I haven't been everywhere...
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Photo by Ulrike Hahnel,
Rock Formations on the
Lagune Route, Bolivia



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  #1  
Old 14 Nov 2014
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Info on KTM 620 Adventure

I picked this up the other day

Anyone have any info on them, made before the 640 but with the grey engine but the early 640 had the black engine and then the later ones had the grey one fitted?!?!

It is not like the 640 but more like its own bike as quit a few differences

Called a KTM UK dealer and they said they don't know much about them and they were not sold in the UK, HPI check shows it is a import

anyone know about this bike?

Apparently it is very rare in the UK they said, i have never seen another one for sale here.........

Last edited by WesleyDRZ400; 17 Jul 2015 at 14:11.
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  #2  
Old 14 Nov 2014
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hi have you seen this KTM 620 LC4 Adventure hope this helps steve
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  #3  
Old 14 Nov 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssbon View Post
hi have you seen this KTM 620 LC4 Adventure hope this helps steve
Thanks for into, yes saw this but trying to see if anyone else had owned one on here, i know no one eles in the UK on other forums........

Also nice Orange side case's on that link..........

Last edited by WesleyDRZ400; 17 Jul 2015 at 14:11.
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  #4  
Old 15 Nov 2014
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These bikes were sold in Switzerland. The silencer was lower and kept below the line of the panniers. The bike came with the first generation Touratech Zega Boxes. From what i remember, the engine was quite rough. Also some engines had problems with faulty aluminium parts which led to loss of oil through hair cracks in those parts. But nothing which couldn't be fixed. Overall, the 640 engine was better and smoother.

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  #5  
Old 15 Nov 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Globetrotter View Post
These bikes were sold in Switzerland. The silencer was lower and kept below the line of the panniers. The bike came with the first generation Touratech Zega Boxes. From what i remember, the engine was quite rough. Also some engines had problems with faulty aluminium parts which led to loss of oil through hair cracks in those parts. But nothing which couldn't be fixed. Overall, the 640 engine was better and smoother.

Claudio


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Cheers for the info when i give it a strip and clean i will have a good look over it. Also will change the clutch shaft bearing as heard these are common parts to fail

Last edited by WesleyDRZ400; 15 Nov 2014 at 14:19.
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  #6  
Old 20 Nov 2014
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Hi Weslly,

This bike is pretty much the same as the 640, only the crankshaft had a 2mm shorter stroke and the cylinder head a 1mm shallower combustion well.. Most parts will interchange between the older and newer models... I built a 640 from parts that I scavenged up and some parts I put in the engine were from the 620s as outlined in this thread:
New 640 Build from the Ground up - ADVrider

After 02 the 640 had its biggest update, going to the hi flo head and juice clutch



620 info look into this thread:
KTM 620 Adventure E/GS Adventure History - ADVrider

And look in here for lots of info on the LC 4 series:KTM LC4 (640) Thread Index - ADVrider
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Old 20 Nov 2014
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Thanks for the info, i was looking at your build thread yesterday after a Google search, very impressive.

I built a KDX200E frame up this year which was fun sourcing parts of ebay and fixing it, had to grind and weld the frame to fix some parts which was good learning also and understanding the basics with a 2 smoke

Planing a engine strip on 4T bike which needs some TLC and to learn how it all works.

Yes it is running fine, did around 100 miles on green lanes with no issues so far so good. Needs a few little fixes but nothing major

Good to know all parts are same as the 640.

Yes i noticed the later models had the high flow head, much difference in ride?
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Old 21 Nov 2014
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The high flo engines as delivered are not much different in power than the older ones... The difference is that with the larger valves you can safely modify the engine to produce more power than available on the older engines..
With my bikes I am mainly focused on longevity and not on chasing HP, as the bike puts out more than enough power for my needs.. The best thing to do if you have a restrictive stainless steel supertrapp muffler or similar on the bike is to toss it in favor of something that flows a little better.. With the stock restrictive pipe in place the heat is not allowed to exit the combustion chamber as fast resulting a hotter running top end which contributes to shorter valve life among other things.. I am running the SXC can on both of my bikes and it never gets finger burning hot like the old can did..

You likely have a low slung pipe on your bike that probably has a better flow rate than the newer EPA rated OEM stuff so you may be ok..

My main bike now has 190,000+ km on it and is running strong... For where I live and ride this is the perfect bike even though it is now coming on 8 yrs of being out of production...

Last edited by Island Hopper; 26 Nov 2014 at 11:33.
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Old 2 Apr 2015
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Re 620 Adventure

Hi, i have worked on a few of these back in the day. As has been previously mentioned, they are virtually identical to the 640 model with the obvious exception of the exhaust system. Your bike (assuming its the one pictured) has been fitted with an after market 2 into 1 silencer, replacing the original 2 into 1 into 2 setup. It appears to be made by FP. You should check that the jetting on the Dellorto phm40( not the mikuni bst) has been altered to suit this. I would also repack the silencer with high quality packing unless you know for sure that this has already been done recently. All engine issues for lc4s may apply and are well documented with the possible exception of the fact that a number of engines from this period were fitted with RHP main bearings which could spin on the crank, causing its demise, in which case you could rebuild the engine with a 78mm stroke crank(640) providing you fit 2 0.7mm base gaskets instead of the original 0.5mm. Interestingly ( if your a spotter like me) this is the original grey engine but if you compare you'll find its a slightly darker grey than the later versions and better quality finish. Great bike, i would own one if i could.
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Old 3 Apr 2015
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Well i was just about to use it on a small 2 week trip, oil was still clean but decided the hour before i was to leave to do a oil & filter change.

Bottom sump magnetic filter had a 20mm long metal strip along with loads of small metal parts, paper filter was also full of metal dust in each fold

Took it to a local mechanic and he confirmed it is parts of a bearing housing.

Full engine strip begins


Such is life...............
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  #11  
Old 5 Apr 2015
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I would recommend that you take your engine to someone with experience with lc4s or ktm 4st singles. Crankshaft main bearing journals must be shimmed to ensure correct end float and alignment, this can only be done correctly by someone with the special tools for removal and replacemant of the crank side journals. You should also replace the scavenge pump as unfortunately these pick up unfiltered oil! so are likely to be damaged in the event of a bearing failure. Whilst i appreciate this is an unwanted event, try to look at it as an opportunity to upgrade your engine as well as overhauling it. If your unfamiliar with lc4s make sure to follow the correct procedure for oil filling as this is a common reason for bearing failures! Good luck.
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  #12  
Old 6 Apr 2015
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I have got a great mechanic who knows these bikes well, whilst there will change any old looking parts or cheap parts like cam chain ect ect..... full engine overall.

Think your right and whilst there put a FCR41MX on it as i have one laying in the shed.

Not sure what KTM was thinking when they designed the way the oil has to be changed?!?!?

I have the original workshop book which came with the bike, there are differences between this and the 640 adv
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  #13  
Old 8 Apr 2015
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If your going to fit to fit the fcr you may want to think about converting the choke to cable operation as reaching the pull type plunger knob is a bit of a pain.This can be done using parts from a mikuni bst carb.You will also need to replace the throttle and switch gear.
Also as this is a cable operated clutch, i suggest you replace the actuator shaft and needle bearings 57532015000 and 50332095000 x2. Don't bother with the oem clutch cable but use one from venhill. The ktm part was superseded around 99/2000 to a part which was slightly shorter which was bad news for the adv model and results in early failure, the venhill part is the same length as the original and has an additional in line adjuster. Remember to fit two of these and cable tie together so that you can replace without the need to remove the tank etc. The actuator shaft bearings dry out quite quickly and cause the shaft to wear, creating a heavy pull and more stress on the cable. The new parts and a well lubed cable will give you a pull which is lighter than the hydraulic version but just as smooth. If your planning on heavy sand work i suggest you fit the rallye clutch springs 58532080000 and washers 51006097000. All the best, p s stop me if i'm becoming too nerdy!

Last edited by Matty Gofun; 8 Apr 2015 at 16:09.
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  #14  
Old 11 Apr 2015
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Matty and links you know of for a workshop manuals, you seem the forum expert on this bike

All links i found have been pulled
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  #15  
Old 13 Apr 2015
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Sorry, can't help with workshop manual as mine are genuine ktm cd and hard copy, oh and mostly in my head! If anyone knows how to get the contents of a ktm cd onto the web id be happy to try though i suspect it would infringe a number of copyright laws. Purchasing a genuine ktm cd isn't that expensive, especially if you view it as an investment in your bike.
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