Errrr NO. You will need parts for these repairs .. so you'll be somewhere where there is a post office and most probably a workshop of some description where the required tools are (or can be frabricated or sent for).

What you need are things for regular servicing and brake down repairs beside the road. Anything that requires more can be done where there is a workshop with tools, parts, water, food and mail.

You do not want to be burdend with tools and parts that you hopefully won't need.

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alex - on your lid stopper thingy ..

I did the same kind of thing for a DR650 - but the metal goes all the way over the cap and is held both sides by the hose clamp; loosen the calmp to remove the lid stopper .. then unscrew the lid. This way there are no holes in the lid nor tube.

Plastic and stailess steel threads should be lubricates to prevent sezing .. plastic ones = petrlum jelly .. but in a pinch anything will do. Stainless steel .. nver seve .. but if nothing else .. then anything ..

Stainless Steel is not good for fatigue .. plastic is better that way .. but mild steel will do .. so thoes nice rust free stainless steel hose clamps might not be the best long term .. the old plated steel ones that rust might be better ... replace when rusty?

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More on the mounting system .. you 'only' have two clamps .. if one brakes the other won't be far behind .. there go your expensive tools .. better to use 4 clamps and preferably to different things .. the different things bit can be hard.

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Regards Frank Warner
motorcycles BMW R80 G/S 1981, BMW K11LT 1993, BMW K75 G/S

Thanks Frank,
will definitely add two more hose clamps, when one gives up I will hopefully have time to find a replacement along the way.

I didnt make the lid stopper go all the way across to meet the clamp on the other side as I wanted something I can open quickly without having to unscrew the clamp, maybe if I fit a section of inner tube around the lid it will prevent the screw to come off and probably will hold the lid even without screw?

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... and Nelly The Elephant packed the trunk and said goodbye to the circus...

Some more thoughs ...

Rather than 2 more hose clamps .. 2 U clamps .. like they use on car/truck exhausts .. but better if made from flat metal so as to spread the load on the plastic tube. Bolts that to the skid plate. Best if the inner nuts are locked to one anbother so you can tighten it from the outside, this way if it gets loose you can easily tighten it without taking the bash plate off.

On my cap stopper .. you only have to lossen the hose calmp so the metal stopper slides off.. the ends of the stopper are raised so the hose calmp really has to be loose ..not just vibration loose.

Other ideas .. less secure to theft ...
Rather than screw you cap to the metal tang .. make the metal tang spring into a notch you cut in the cap. That way the cap will lock by the tang.
You could do the same with the rubber tube - make notches in the cap for the rubber to sit in.

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Regards Frank Warner
motorcycles BMW R80 G/S 1981, BMW K11LT 1993, BMW K75 G/S