Have you any photos of that? Tnx.

Sorry just sold the bike in favour of the new BMW 800gs coming out in March. Never expected it to go so quickly. Had it advertised for one day and could already have sold it 3 times over. It is however very easy. Just remove the airfilter cover and air filter. Use a hot soldering iron to melt a couple of holes in the back of the housing opposite where the air filter sits. You will notice that the air intake is only the size of the top a match box. I made 6 holes, 5mm in diameter, to essensially double the intake capacity. basically in this shape :::

I'm curious to see if anyone has done any CDI mods on the KLE to play with the ignition timing...

If Anyone wants more grunt from the KLE, Then just drop a tooth on the front sprocket. You will loose a bit of top end but get a whole lot more pull off the mark.

But, as always theres a trade off between power and Fuel consumption. So if your trigger happy then visit more petrol stations. With only a small fuel tank that may be a poor trade.

And with regard to brakes, EBC do the pro-light disc with sintered pads which should make a difference.

Roy

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"Whats in that thing??", An R1 owner said.

My bike is back from the workshop and with 5 extra ponies and a little increase in torque.

The mechanic told me that I could gain even more is the exhaust system is replaced to get rid of the catalytic convertors in the extractors or something like that.

The KLE has 3 cats and restrict the bike a lot but I decided that I had already eliminated some restriction and don't want to increase the emisions for a little extra power, at the end of the day it is not a race bike so no need for it.

The DNA filter went in and the airbox was modified, so the little snorkel intake was taken out of the box and new holes were drilled at the back of the box too. As many may know by now, K&N doesn't make and specific kit for the KLE but DNA does and they have very good reviews.

The first run in the dyno indicated that the bike was running too rich, maybe because of the premium unleaded (98+RON).So after fine tuning the carb the 134 jets went in but it went rich again. Probably because of the restrictors and because the dynokit was designed to be used in conjuction with the K&N universal kit and regular unleaded. So he tried 130 and finally settled for 126 after asking me if I wanted to keep running the bike on premium or change to regular. I rather using premiun because I had bad luck with getting bad batches of regular that made my car run like crap in a couple of occasions. But if you are running on normal unleaded the 130 are good if you keep your stock exhaust or 134 for derestricted exhaust and mufflers and unversal K&N air filters. Remember that this Dynojet kit was designed in the 90s when the emission laws weren't as tight as they are nowdays and it hasn't been updated since then due to the fact that they don't get the newer model KLE in the USA. This is the reason why the kit is sold online as 1991-1998 and for European models only.

So here is the dynorun sheet with before and after:

Before in blue with stock airbox and filter and carb. Only staintune pipe in it.

After in red with DNA air filter, modified airbox to improve airflow, 126 Main jets and the staintune pipe


My mechanic also ran the bike without the muffler restrictor at the end of the staintune exhaust and it increased the noise a lot but the gain in power was almost non existent. It was very much the same graph but going rich again at the high end of the revs range. So if I take the restrictor out it will be to piss the neighbours off or to interrupt the mobile phone conversation of some stupid drivers

Will

Can anyone shed any light on this - the standard spec. for the KLE (Kawasaki manual) is 44bhp and 30 ft/lb of torque.

manufacturers never quote genuine rear wheel figures, usually an "optimised" crank figure. Also, i read somewhere that the newer KLE500's only produce 38bhp (kawasaki number).
so a genuine 39.5bhp at the back wheel isn't bad. good flat torque curve too.
however, looking at the graphs, the exhaust is seriously strangling the top end, so a full system replacement would liberate the 8K-10K power, making fast road work a lot more fun.
thanks for the jet info, i will file it, and when the manufacturers warranty has run out........

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Harley Davidsons,
The most effective way of turning petrol into noise without the side-effect of horsepower

Hi there guys

First time here on the forums.
I have just recently encountered a really sad happening with my KLE 500 (2005). On the way to work on the highway cruising at about 120 km/h, my bike just slowly started to lose its power. so i decided to slow down and pull over to the side of the road. There was a really loud and heavy "knocking" sound when i lightly revved to get an idea of what was happening.

Turns out my motor seized up due to lack of oil, which i am actually quite adamant on checking.

Anyways, so this is gonna cost me a huge wad of cash (R18 000) to repair, as all the bearings need replacing, as well as, Crank, Conrod, all gaskets and seals, clutch plates, and so fourth.

I just thought that maybe it would be easier to locate a complete running 2nd hand motor, but that is proving to be more difficult than i thought.

I live in South Africa, Johannesburg.

Anybody got any ideas on what i can do ? Desperate for help !!!

how do you mean "drop" a tooth? buying a new one but with one tooth less or modify the original?

Buzzbomb,

Yes, buy a front sprocket with one tooth less then standard.

1 tooth less at front is the same as adding 2 teeth to the rear.


Hope this helps?.


Roy

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"Whats in that thing??", An R1 owner said.

yes, thnx... now everything is clear


I just have to find that sprocket that will fit