Switched the outfit from the M&S's to the summer tyres yesterday. No great shakes once you've done it a couple of times. To add a few pointers to the above:

Find tyres that work well for you. My front Mitas bead can be broken by hand but I've had Pirelli's on the MZ and my dads Guzzi that only came off with the hacksaw. I've run tubeless marked tyres with tubes that were easier on and off that some tube types although generaly TT is best. Another example of an industry with standards that then does what the heck it fancies at the time.

Unless you are riding a 125 two up, add a G-clamp to your kit. You can use it as a bead breaker and to hold a tyre in the rim well. Three levers are easier than two and you don't need twelve footers.

Once you've had a tyre off, lube the new one as it goes on. No tyre shop ever does this, it's good for their business that you need a press to do a job that a 4-inch lever should achieve. Tyre lube is best followed by grated up hand soap in water. At a push WD-40, lithium grease or washing up liquid all work they just might give issues (corrosion etc.) later.

Don't forget the rim protectors, they aren't just for the shiney chrome brigade, a badly placed lever will dent a rim.

Check the rim tape and feel inside the tyre for additional nails. I've seen plenty of high speed tube changes ruined when matey had another flat three miles down the road due to the second nail he didn't look for

"High pressure" for bead seating means 50 PSI, not 150. If it hasn't seated at 50 you need grease, a reposition on the rim and maybe a different tyre. Go too high and you'll start to wreck the tube before you've turned a wheel. There are pictures on every sidecar website of Goldwings that have had car tyres fitted on the standard rim, had the bead seated at massive pressure and subsequently exploded.

Dump the foam, it doesn't work. Slime and Ultraseal work up to their limits but are messy when they finally fail.

The 21-inch tube thing is a gimmic used by racers. The same lunatics save less than the weight of my breakfast by drilling holes all over the place and carrying various adjustable spanners and 70-quid aluminium widgits for undoing/rounding off the nuts. It's fine if the worse that can happen is that you loose a position in the championship, but a third puncture in a day due to overloading the wrong tube up some trail in Kazakhstan can loose you days or weeks if you shred the tyre. Do the job right to start with and know it's good for thousands of miles IMHO.

Fit a flap to the front mudguard. A lot of rear punctures are caused by detritus lined up by the front. The "fashion" mudguards on the bikes do nothing. Extent the mudguard with a bit of cut up oil bottle, conveyor rubber or plastic fenda-thingy and you save hassle.

Get some baby wipes, tyres are always filthy and you don't want that inside your gloves.

Warn your wife/Girlfriend about why you are going out and buying baby powder, hand wipes and tubes of lubricant, it saves time

Don't let any of this stuff put you off. Practice and you'll be self sufficient Only trouble then is you'll aquire a stack of part used tyres as you start to experiment with different types. I'm growing potatos in mine

Andy