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Packed up, fueled up, and headed out of El Rosario toward San Blas. Got a reasonably early start and took the toll-free highways 15, 72, and 54. It was one of those days where you just enjoy the ride, the countryside, and the smells of the trees and plants as everything starts to shift. As I moved south, the landscape got greener, maybe even a little tropical. Not sure if it’s technically tropical yet, but it felt like it. Seeing palm trees again was a good sign.
It was hot today, but really only when stopped or riding slow in direct sun. Once moving, there was a perfect breeze that made for fantastic riding conditions. Loved that.
The Unexpected and Fun Pit Stop in Reynosa
While riding the other day, I had the idea to mount my phone somewhere so I could snap road photos while riding. Nothing fancy, just something to make it easier to grab quick shots. Problem was, I needed a drill, or at least someone with one.
Enter Reynosa, and two guys named Pedro and Enrique.
I stopped at a small shop. Not modern, kind of a mix between a tire repair place, a junk pile, and a siesta hangout. Between my terrible Spanish, their terrible English, Google Translate, and a whole lot of gestures, I managed to explain what I needed. They got it right away.
Enrique jumped on a bicycle and rode off looking for a drill. Pedro started digging around for bits, and we began prepping. Enrique came back a few minutes later with a drill, but the chuck wouldn’t grip the small bit we needed. After more chatter, he took off again. Meanwhile, Pedro and I kept tinkering with what we had until he suddenly remembered another drill he had stashed somewhere.
He brought it out, and we were in business. A few minutes later, the hole was drilled, the mount was in place, and the job was done. They refused to take any money. Just a handshake and “buen viaje.” Eventually I managed to press a little cash on them, took a couple of pictures, and rolled on. Moments like that are why I love riding in Mexico. The people are something else.
Rolling Into San Blas
The rest of the ride was smooth. I stopped a couple of times to take in the scenery and eventually rolled into San Blas in the afternoon. A couple of hotels were full, which had me mildly concerned, but one of them pointed me toward Hotel Familia.
It turned out to be a great spot. Family-run, with a nice restaurant out front and secure parking out back. They gave me a garage remote for the private lot behind the building, probably enough room for eight or ten cars. I asked if taking up a car spot with the bike was okay, and they immediately offered a better idea — park on the cement pad in the garden where they grow plants. They even suggested putting a cover on it so it wouldn’t get covered in “plant juice” overnight.
Very safe, very welcoming. Room was 850 pesos.
I took a photo with the owner standing next to the bike, threw on the cover, changed into town-exploring clothes, and went for a walk.
Lots of Motorbikes and a Saturday Night Crowd
San Blas was alive. Crowds everywhere, Saturday night energy. I didn’t make it down to the beach, but I explored the waterfront, the marina, and wandered through town. Not a ton to see, but it’s a well-known birdwatching destination.
What stood out the most? Motorbikes. It felt like I had suddenly been dropped into Southeast Asia. Bikes everywhere — on every corner, cutting through traffic, weaving between cars and pedestrians. You had to stay alert just to cross the street. Seemed like an odd thing to see in a town this size, but clearly it’s how the locals get around.
In the main plaza, they were setting up a huge stage. By 8 PM, it was in full swing. I grabbed a spot at one of the plaza restaurants and had some fantastic enchiladas while watching the crowd build. Turned out to be a whole lot of loud music, speeches, and more speeches. After an hour of waiting for something to actually happen, I gave up and wandered back to the hotel.
From my room, I could still hear the party rolling well past midnight. Big crowd, big volume, big night in San Blas.
Oh Yeah, The Phone Mount — Right Idea, Bad Workability
That phone mount we installed? Good idea in theory. In practice, not great. The vibration was bad enough to make most of the pictures unusable. I might salvage something from it, but it’s not the solution I hoped for.
I’ve got a GoPro too, but it brings its own issues. Still figuring all of that out. Not critical, just something I’ll keep messing with when time allows.
Tomorrow – Southbound With as Much Coastal as Possible
Tomorrow I head south again. Maybe Bucerías. Maybe Puerto Vallarta. Maybe somewhere else entirely. I’ll figure it out in the morning.
San Blas just felt like the kind of stop I needed
because too much fun is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure
Pretty laid-back day. I didn’t cover many miles, but it still took some time. Just a 90-mile cruise down to Punta de Mita. Not much in the way of distance, but it was a scenic one.
The Ride – Coastal Views and Tree Tunnels
The road south had some beautiful stretches. It weaved in and out of coastal sections where I could catch glimpses of the Pacific, then ducked into dense, shaded corridors where the trees formed a tunnel overhead. The ocean was never far, and everything felt greener, thicker, and more tropical the farther I went.
The flip side? The road was rough in a few sections. Lots of topes, lots of tiny towns, and plenty of resort areas where the traffic slows to a crawl. It was Sunday, and nearly every town had something going on. In two of them, the main road was completely shut down. One seemed to be hosting a horse event, the other a full festival.
Even with the slow pace, it was one of those days that felt easy. No rush, no real agenda, just rolling along and seeing what the day offered. I didn’t know where I’d end up, but when I got to Punta de Mita, it felt like the right place to stop.
Punta de Mita – Luxury Meets Surf Culture
This place is interesting. It’s a beach town split right down the middle. On one side, you’ve got high-end real estate offices, boutique stores, and condo listings that start around two hundred seventy-five thousand and climb into the millions. On the other side, you’ve got surfers walking barefoot, carrying boards and six-packs of , looking like they’re here for sun and swells.
It’s a strange mix. Some people are dressed to impress, straight out of a resort catalog, while others look like they live out of their van.
I walked around for a bit, checked out the beach and the surf crowd, and wandered out onto the lighthouse rock jetty. Nice place, but I didn’t feel the need to dig in too deep. It’s polished, a little upscale for this kind of trip, but made for a good place to call it early.
Grabbed a fantastic chicken quesadillas at El Coral. Simple but excellent. Hit the spot after a day of slow riding.
Tomorrow – Heading Inland?
Not sure what the plan is yet. I think it’s time to leave the coast and head inland toward Guadalajara, but I’ll spend some time with the maps tonight and figure it out from there.
Best Laid Plans of Mice and...
The plan was to see some folks in the Puerto Vallarta area, but the morning just got away from me. Spent too much time on the phone, and then tinkering with the bike (loose bolt issue, must be the smooth streets), and before I knew it, half the day was gone.
I really appreciate the generosity of the people that asked I visit, but when I thought about spending the whole day in PV versus getting back on the road, I realized this trip is more about exploring real, authentic Mexico than hanging around hustling, bustling resort towns where everything is new, shiny, and full of tourists. Someplace I’d fly into to enjoy, maybe.
So, around noon, I made the call, I’ll catch up with everyone another time. Time to hit the road.
And yes, I made one last Walmart stop in Bucerías before leaving town.
The Ride, Twisties, Potholes, and Pure Fun
Once I got going, and found the road to Mascota it was fantastic. Twists, curves, and beautiful mountain countryside.
The first stretch was a bit slow, with lots of small towns and stop-and-go traffic, but once I got out into the country, it turned into one of the most fun roads yet.
The pavement wasn’t perfect, plenty of potholes meant you couldn’t get too carried away with the speed. You’re dodging potholes mid-curve, which definitely keeps things interesting. But the scenery, the flow of the road, and the ride itself? Beyond belief. Don’t even think I saw a rock on the road.
Rolling Into Mascota, Authentic, Historic, and Just Cool
First stop in Mascota was AutoZone, needed a couple of nuts and washers to secure something on the bike that had loosened up. Quick fix, no problem.
Then I found the coolest little hotel, the Hotel La Casona De La Esmerelda, very old-school, full of character, with a beautiful courtyard, open grassy area, and secure parking inside the yard.
And then she hands me the key.
When she handed it to me, I couldn’t believe it, one of those massive old keys, and the most archaic locking mechanism I’ve seen in ages. Might have to do a separate post just about this hotel because it’s got so much personality. There are better options in town I’m sure, but this was just so cool.
Exploring Mascota, A Hidden Gem
Mascota is one of those places that feels untouched in all the right ways. Historic, funky, and full of interesting little spots.
All over the centro of town, they have signs pointing to all the local sites, the plaza, the museum, the church, the parks. Makes it easy to just wander and take it all in.
Best sidewalks I’ve seen in Mexico so far, seriously. Most of the town’s sidewalks are in fantastic shape. And downtown, they’ve made the corners handicap-accessible in many areas, which you don’t see everywhere. The streets, on the other hand, are stone-paved, rough, and winding all over the place. Some of them are just wide enough for one car, while others cut at weird angles, it’s a total maze.
I spent some time just walking around, taking it all in. There’s a much stronger sense of history here than I have seen so far, and the town has done a great job preserving its charm.
Simple Food
Didn’t go for anything fancy, just grabbed some street tacos, picked up a few snacks from a small grocery store, and called it a night.
Tomorrow, Guadalajara Bound
Hoping to get an early start in the morning and head toward Guadalajara. So pumped for the ride ahead, this trip is turning out even better than expected.
Far better than expected. Thanks for the push guys.
APOTA Day-15 : Mascota to Talpa de Allende to Cocula
Twisty and Hot, the Adventure Continues
Today was another fantastic day. I know you are getting tired of hearing that, but I am just so amazed at Mexico.
Finally got an early start and hit the road while it was still a bit cool out. You guys had mentioned Talpa de Allende, so I did a bit of interweb investigation, and when I checked the map, it wasn’t far off my route. The town looked interesting, and the road looked fun, so I decided to detour and check it out.
And wow, this town was a beehive of activity. You actually knew that as soon as you turned off Highway 70 onto the road to Talpa de Allende, because of all the tour buses going in and out.
Talpa de Allende — Apparently a Pilgrimage Destination
Talpa de Allende was buzzing. Shops, markets with more shops, and a plaza that was absolutely rocking. People, adults, little ponies, kids, nuns, cops directing traffic.
Kiko mentioned something about Peregrinos (pilgrims) traveling to Talpa, which apparently happens a few times a year. Maybe that explained the crowds and the endless rows of market stalls. Vendors were selling everything imaginable for the religious festivals that bring people here. I’m guessing, folks.
The people were so friendly, and the energy of the town was something to see. Definitely worth the detour, and honestly, it would have been a great place to overnight. But since it was still early in the day, I decided to carry on. Cal, you may be here for many days.
The Ride — Fun, Smooth Road, Big Heat
From Talpa, I continued on Highway 70, which turned out to be a great road. Lots of twisties, not a lot of potholes, and just a plain old good road through the mountains.
Hot day, though. Somewhere north of 90°F (33–35°C), and every time I stopped, it was in the shade.
I had planned to stop in Ameca, but it was still reasonably early, so I figured I’d push a little farther. Cocula looked like a good place to stop for the night, just another few minutes down the road.
Well… that is, if you don’t miss the turn.
I somehow managed to overshoot the turn leaving Ameca, which meant taking a bit of a longer way around, but I got there in the end.
Cocula — Another Happening Spot
Found a really nice, modern hotel, the Real Cocula Hotel, for 1100 pesos, but worth it. Got settled in, threw on shorts, a t-shirt, and flip-flops, and went out to explore.
So the Mystery Explosions and a Procession
Just as I left the hotel, I heard loud bangs. Like, really loud. Louder than gunshots. It was one of those moments where you stop and think, “Okay, what exactly is that?”
The bangs were spaced apart. One loud blast, then silence, then another blast. Didn’t sound like fireworks.
As I walked, I started to hear bands playing, and about three blocks later, I found a big procession. A band was leading the way, followed by kids in traditional indigenous costumes dancing, people carrying a statue of Christ on a Cross, pallbearer style, and another band bringing up the rear.
It had the feel of a funeral procession, but I don’t actually know the meaning behind it. Whatever it was, it was incredible to see. Got a video, but I’ll just include pictures here.
Oh, and a guy walking behind randomly putting a cannon down and shooting off a single large bang.
Big Church by the Plaza
From the outside, it’s not the most ornate, but step inside, and it’s a whole different story. Gold everywhere. Around the altar, covering the walls, statues shining. Over the top, extravagant, and amazing to see.
There were even a couple of other big churches in town too, but this one stood out.
And the plaza was very busy, full of energy, lots of shops, and just alive.
Grabbed some tacos from a street vendor. Really good, but forgot to take a picture before devouring them. Heat must’ve got to me.
Tomorrow — Guadalajara?
Still not 100 percent sure if I’m heading into Guadalajara or not. Gonna sleep on it and decide in the morning.
Took a short ride today, just over an hour and a half, landing in San Juan Cosalá, south of Guadalajara. Not a long day in the saddle, but today wasn’t about covering distance.
A fellow rider from, Kiko, had reached out and invited me to stop by for a coffee if I was ever in the area. He’s been living and riding here for years and had plenty of insight on riding and living in Mexico, so it was well worth taking the time to meet up, swap stories, and soak up some local knowledge. Always great to hear from someone who has been in a place long enough to really understand it. Plus, he’s just an all-around good soul. I’m appreciative to have met him. Thanks, Kiko.
Ajijic — Expat Central
After a good afternoon of conversation, I made my way over to Ajijic, one of the small towns along Lago de Chapala (Lake Chapala), and found a hotel for the night. By the time I got out to explore, it was already dark, but I still made my way down to the plaza to check out the area. And many surprises—the ornate ironwork all around the plaza, and the “Wall of the Dead” that was different, but so Mexico.
Ajijic has a huge expat community, mostly Canadians and Americans from what I understand. The restaurants seemed to be a near 50/50 mix of locals and expats, which gives the place a different feel than many of the towns I’ve been through. I expected to see a few, but there are a lot of expats here. Definitely a well-established hub for people retiring or relocating to Mexico.
Of course, there was a big church in the plaza, and when I went up to it, the place was absolutely packed—standing room only, and even outside, people were waiting. Then I noticed something interesting: people were moving in one door and out another, emerging with an ash cross on their forehead. That’s when it clicked. Ash Wednesday.
It is incredible to see how deeply spiritual the culture here is. The church was full of locals coming to receive ashes, quietly reflecting as they moved through the ceremony. Even from the outside, you could feel the weight of tradition and belief.
Pilgrims on the Road
Speaking of religious devotion, I also caught sight of some Peregrinos (pilgrims) on the way here. While I was taking a break, five or six people emerged from the scrub brush on the side of the road with backpacks, walking along the highway toward their destination. They stopped briefly to chat with a roadside vendor, then waved and carried on—likely making their way to Talpa de Allende as part of their pilgrimage.
Over-the-Top Good Meal
While wandering around town, I spotted a restaurant flying a Canadian, American, and Mexican flag, which stood out as unique. It had a reader board out front, looked good, so I wandered in.
Inside, I saw a couple of expat ladies eating and asked them how their meal was. They raved about it—the special was pork ribs done roast-style, mashed potatoes, sautéed vegetables—but warned me they thought the kitchen was about to close. They pointed me toward the owner, who was sitting nearby.
Despite speaking very little English, he immediately welcomed me in and made sure I got a meal. And oh man, was it worth it. Huge portions, amazing food, over-the-top good.
The restaurant? El Charro.
So not many miles today, but a ride that led to some great conversations, a deeper look into local culture, and one of the best meals yet.
What did I see the other day? “It’s not about the miles, but the smiles.” Today definitely fit that to a T.
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2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
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