Thanks guys…..
I left home this morning with the carb in a Tupperware in the kitchen and the house smelling of petrol…wifes loving me !!


Backofbeyond….Air filter makes sense, thanks before I create my next problem J

I presume the float valve is under the float pin or there about….I didn’t seen any filters, Ill take a closer look. If I find one Ill give it a clean and Ill blast a shot of cleaner through the value anyway.

Found this site – looks like there may not be a filter.
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.dansmc.com/carbs/japanese_carbs/suzy_re5_carb.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.dansmc.com/carbs/japanese_carbs/carb_pics.htm&usg=__vYxHYn_Xyr7XOV7XJmyNl65HUHU=&h =555&w=750&sz=55&hl=en&start=20&tbnid=junylZL4_PQT cM:&tbnh=104&tbnw=141&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmotorcycle%2Bcarburetor%26um%3D1%26hl %3Den%26sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1&um=1&itbs=1


Im still not too sure whether the slider and pin should still be attached to the throttle cable on the bike or I should remove this along with the carb ??

We’ll, short of checking for this elusive Float valve filter, I think the carb is almost ready to be reattached – and the pilot screw (air/ fuel mix?) and throttle adjustment screw (idling?) tweeked if necessary.


A few silly questions…..
- Within the lead to the spark plug (not sure what its called), is there no + and – cable ?- is that why I got a shock when testing the plug…..the power cable being the positive and bike being the negative ? Does one just touch the plug to the bike to prevent the earthing taking place though me ?

- How tight to torque the spark plug without torque wrench ? – Is there a rule of thumb on this ? I thought I heard finger tight and then half a turn tighter, something like that. (else I can grab a socket on the way home to fit my torque wrench)

- Should one torque set the carb bolts on the float bowl ?


Ill buy an air filter this afternoon and fit it this evening, I have replaced the plug, cleaned the carb, checked the petrol tank breather pipe for blockages, the carb breather pipe, the fuel line from tank to carb using On and Reserve settings, cleaned the petcock filter......Assuming there the bike is still kaput….what next ? - burn it

Thanks

Unless you really need to remove the needle and piston for some reason, i'd leave it on the cable and just give it a bit of a clean with carb cleaner and a cloth (carefully).
I serviced a customer's XT 125 like yours a couple of months ago and as far as i remember the only fuel filter fitted is in the fuel tap, there isn't one behind the float valve. You'd need to drain the fuel tank and remove the tap body to get to the filter but as you've already found the flow to be OK then i'd say this isn't your problem...anyway it seems you have a very RICH mixture problem and blocked fuel filter would cause the opposite.
If you're happy that the carb is nice and clean, refit it and the air filter and see how things are. A good rule of thumb when fixing problems is to do ONE THING at a time so when the problem goes away you'll know exactly what the hell was laughing at you!
Check the air intake snorkel into the airbox hasn't been blocked with something, it's under the seat. Another customer's bike had similar over-rich running a couple of years ago and the cause was a rag that he kept under the seat which had been sucked into the intake!
Another cause could also be the exhaust baffles coming loose and blocking the system up.....sometimes you can check this by taking off the exhaust system and shaking it to see if it rattles.

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Just going for a short ride on my bike....

The metal of the engine is the return path for the spark. Bear in mind that in order to complete the circuit the electricity has to jump across the gap at the end of the plug. That requires loads of volts, just like . Electricity is lazy though and if an easier option presents itself that doesn't involve jumping it'll take it. That would be through you if you're holding the wire or the cap - even if the plug is earthed against the engine. You can avoid the taser experience if you close the plug gap down to nothing but that tends to knock the performance of the bike down a bit :confused1:

How tight to torque the plug? Finger tight plus half a turn? Sometimes!

Let's assume you're putting in a new plug. Screw it into the hole and tighten it gently until the threads bottom. Easiest way to do this bit is to use a socket but turn it with your fingers. At this point you need to tighten it up so put the ratchet or whatever on the socket and turn it. New plugs have a crushable washer fitted and that's where the half turn bit comes in. They will screw down about a further half turn before they go solid.

A used plug ( = any plug that's been tightened once) has already crushed the washer down and needs very little actual turning, just tightening. If you try to force a used plug the extra half turn you'll damage something - probably the threads in the cylinder head and that's an expensive fix. If you've got a torque wrench that's a good start. Look up NGK's (or whatever make of plug you've used) web site to give you a tightening figure but in rough terms it's just a bit tighter than the force needed to crush the sealing washer in a new plug.

Right then - after all that good advice - now just whack it all together & see if it runs OK

Hope this is now sorted, the easiest thing to do to check a sick engine is take the filter out and see how it runs, if it runs ok you've got a blocked filter if it runs worse its running weak-fuelling/carb. Then check plug/s; dark=rich, pale=weak, they should be a "biscuit" colour (I always go for cardboard box brown). Its good you now know the innards of your carb. cleaning it out can't hurt and sorting leaking exhaust should help smooth running.
A friend had a CG 125 and the choke was travelling beyond off to being partially on over centre(does that make sense?) causing the bike to hold back.
P.S. always get someone else to hold the HT lead

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Anything can happen in the next half hour

And another thought.....If the airfilter's in that state it could be well worth your while doing an oil and filter change, check brakes, chain and sprocket etc. etc. Its good to do a full service on a bike that's new to you, then you have peace of mind that everything is as it should be and good to go many more miles

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Anything can happen in the next half hour

Guys......I was chomping at the bit all the way to the shops to fetch my air filter only to find out that they didnt have any - practically reduced me to tears.
Hopped online and bought one last night, received the email earlier today saying its been dispatched....praying it arrives tomorrow !

This evening Im going to fit the carb, tighen up the plug.....check the air snorkel for rags etc, then wait out the delivery .

Are there any tips how best to get the air out of the fuel line when reconnecting the carb ? - or do I just fit, open the fuel tap and choke...and hope gravity does the rest ?

In addition....Oothef, haha....are you kidding ? (or not? )

Seems a good way to lose friends...

Also....even though the air filter housing has a mesh over the pipe to the carb intake port....is it safe to run the bike without the filter (even to check its working?) - Id need to ride the bike as that is where I was experiencing the problems (only once gears engaged and me pulling off)

Lastly, great idea.....once the bike is up and purring.....Ill work my way around and give it a service.....loving this, learning plenty!

Will be back with an update once the filter arrives......fingers crossed !!
Thanks for all the help..!!

Good luck

You guys are LEGENDS !!

It works !

I have worked it out - the hole(s) in the exhaust are blowing directly into the air filter snorkel.....need I say more .

I fitted the carb, I wedged some cloth between the exhaust holes and the snorkel.....the bike started 1st time, I rode 40 meters.....bike pulled fine .

Hoping the filter arrives today so I can fit it, and gonna make a plan to get a exhaust system replaced before we ride ANYWHERE.

Guys, thanks a bunch, I really enjoyed this !

PS - Was going to take the bike to the garage to get the exhaust replaced...or should/ can I do it myself ?