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2 Aug 2010
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there's a few reports on wheel rot on earlier bikes
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2 Aug 2010
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No personal experience but I've also heard reports of the valve seals being a weakness..
All bikes will suffer from this with high mileage so maybe it's just that these were high mileage bikes !
Check for white smoke when starting the bike up after left sitting for a while and like any bike, REGULARLY check the oil level/comsumption.
Ted
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2 Aug 2010
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Thanks! I'll have to look up wheel rot! :-)
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3 Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinwalrus
there's a few reports on wheel rot on earlier bikes
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My MOT examiner pointed out a little corrosion around the junction of the spokes and rim on my rear wheel last time and advised me to keep an eye on it. I'm fitting a new tyre today so if any interesting rotting activity's revealed, I'll post a picture or two.
Regards, Mick
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3 Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick O'Malley
My MOT examiner pointed out a little corrosion around the junction of the spokes and rim on my rear wheel last time and advised me to keep an eye on it. I'm fitting a new tyre today so if any interesting rotting activity's revealed, I'll post a picture or two.
Regards, Mick
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Same as the Africa twins Mick 
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13 Aug 2010
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mine is ticking, whats is that?
Hello everybody, 
my Zombie Dommie is waking up from its grave but its got some problem....(obviously  )
1)Ticking noise?? Is it harmful? Is it coming from the arm rocker? I've changed it a couple of years ago, but not all 4 coz I couldnt get all the 4 pieces, also noticed a bit of worn-out mark on the 'house', thiss really means trouble right?
what happen if I just ignore it for the time being? Will it it make things worst??:confused1:
2)Difficult to start. Especially when cold. Once started its easily starts the next day, but If left it for few days, Its difficult to start again.... does anyone has any clue??? My ignition coil is also not the original (im using a 150cc coil),  does this affect the starting process?? Ive notice when the rpm reaches 5000 It also looses it power and tend to jerk!
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13 Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osama Radzi
Difficult to start. Especially when cold. Once started its easily starts the next day, but If left it for few days, Its difficult to start again.... does anyone has any clue??? My ignition coil is also not the original (im using a 150cc coil), does this affect the starting process?? |
Could well be lack of compression - due to engine wear - rings/valves?
Borrow a compression tester - do it with a hot motor & WOT 
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14 Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osama Radzi
2)Difficult to start. Especially when cold. Once started its easily starts the next day, but If left it for few days, Its difficult to start again.... does anyone has any clue???
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I've had a XR600 for many years and suffered the same problem. Starts fine today or tomorrow but leave it for a week and it won't go. Some years ago on a winter trip to France it took me a complete morning to get it started, much to the annoyance of my companions who were ready to go.
The problem is fuel evaporation / degradation in the float chamber of the carb. After a few days the more volatile components evaporate and what's left won't vaporise enough to start the engine. (at least that's my theory).
The fix is more of a workaround - undo the float chamber drain screw and drain off about a float chamber's worth of fuel - about 40-50ml. If you do it with the fuel tap in the on position it'll flush out the old stuff and refill the chamber as soon as the drain screw is tightened up. It's worked for me every time. I've left the bike for months, flushed the fuel through and had first kick starting (no electric start on the XR)
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17 Aug 2010
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yeah dats my theory too...
I agree with you on that, a mechanic claimed dat RON95 petrol is not good enuff, other bikers who had that problem uses RON97 and solved thier problem.... but Ron97 is 30 or 35 cents more expensive!
But I also had that problem with new petrol but cold engine.????
what I would do is sprinkle some petrol in the air box and it tend to start easier, but its really a hassle.
dats not really a major problem right now coz I ride the bike everyday now, my latestt problem is jerking.
Idle is okay,
traffic jams riding also okay
but once I start to accelerate it tend to loose power, as if theres not enuff air in the air box, I noticed it will happened more frequent on rainy days, I reckon theres an electrical leakage sumwhere, maybe the plug coil wire or sumwhere, on other days it runs just fine (except for the ticking noise)
:confused1: Im really frusrated
what to do to check wire leakage? Another mechanic suggest that I should check my earthing,
how do I check my earthing or earthlings.... :-)
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17 Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backofbeyond
I've had a XR600 for many years and suffered the same problem. Starts fine today or tomorrow but leave it for a week and it won't go. Some years ago on a winter trip to France it took me a complete morning to get it started, much to the annoyance of my companions who were ready to go.
The problem is fuel evaporation / degradation in the float chamber of the carb. After a few days the more volatile components evaporate and what's left won't vaporise enough to start the engine. (at least that's my theory).
The fix is more of a workaround - undo the float chamber drain screw and drain off about a float chamber's worth of fuel - about 40-50ml. If you do it with the fuel tap in the on position it'll flush out the old stuff and refill the chamber as soon as the drain screw is tightened up. It's worked for me every time. I've left the bike for months, flushed the fuel through and had first kick starting (no electric start on the XR)
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I had that exact problem on my DRZ after I fitted my Clark Tank/fuel filter.
Evaporation is normal but the fuel pressure should be enough to replenish. Fuel does not go bad in a few days and the volitiles don't evaporate off in that time either. (Well, iv never heard of that)
It turned out to be my fuel filter and pipework were not allowing sufficient flow to replace the evaporated fuel without engine "running" vacuum..
You would of found that a quirt of powerstart in the airbox will also get things moving as well as the carb drain trick.
Anyway, a permanent fix is to get a LARGER fuel filter (if you use one) and make sure you fuel line has no kinks or vertical lines of travel, even if you have to loop some fuel around in a figure 8 !!
Sorted it out for me !!!!!!!!!!! I was ready to install a fuel pump !
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Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.
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19 Oct 2010
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travelled the americas on a dommie. dropped valve seats in canada and again in quito. lots of delays and costs as a result (but with great stories of fantastic people helping) why did it happen? after much thinking i reckon it could have been the big tank restricting air flow to the head. poss solution is to fit an oil cooler or someone who can post you a new head!!!
good luck with the trip, i liked my dommie and it rode well.
oz
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