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  #1  
Old 17 Apr 2019
Endurodude's Avatar
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CRF1000L front forks
Does anyone know if the 2018 / 19 fork tubes will work on a 2017 bike? I’m on a manual bike, if that makes a difference? I’m concerned about the internal wear and am looking to replace them with the cheapest () option. I presume I could keep everything else?

Just in case anyone knows, how expensive would the new tubes be? I’m going to have a chat with my dealer but would like to go with some prior knowledge.

Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Endurodude; 17 Apr 2019 at 18:36.
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  #2  
Old 18 Apr 2019
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as far as I heard there are no confirmation newer models are much better, they got better coating but they say only ATAS got significant upgrade. Personally I would rather change to aftermarket suspension, whole package. Why take chances again?
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Old 12 May 2019
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the only difference between 2018/19 forks and 2016/17 forks are the coating on the lower tubes. Not worth the expense, as its now known the Kashiba coating lasts longer, but don't go the distance and you're only postponing the problem.

Cheapest solution is a KYB conversion if you're handy and have some skills. 2nd best option is replacing the troublesome components with those off the ATAS, which has a completely upgraded and better front-end. No special skills necessary as its mostly plug-and-play.

From ADV: https://advrider.com/f/threads/anoth...forks.1346588/ &
https://advrider.com/f/threads/anoth...1346588/page-2

Motocicio said:


I had mine Kashima coated, thus far has held out well. But by the chance it fails, short of bolting on gold "O" forks. There is a cheaper option.

(Edit, Kashima coating on my forks eventually wore through. Disappointed, but suggests to much flex in 16 to 18 outers.
I feel that even the Kashima coated 18 outers will wear the same way. Hopefully not, would like to be proven wrong on this one. Time will tell. As of Dec. 2018, I have ordered outers and lowers adv sport fork bits. Hopefully they hold up ok. Will review them in time.)

2018 at twin outer tubes. These have been updated with a Kashima coat, but the slider bush to outer tube clearance is still a bit loose.
Part number for this part, 51410-MKK-D01
This is a good enough option, but there is better. They are still the same tube, only coated. Still will flex a bit.

Adv sport forks.
This I feel is the better option.
These forks as a complete set will bolt straight on. Same everything externally except the additional 20 plus mm travel. Will make front end sit up if you bolt straight on. Would need to sort rear also. Good option if you want the extra travel.
The outer tube is Kashima coated and has a larger OD just above area where seal and guide Bush live.
Reg af twin in this area is approx 51mm, adv sport is 55mm.

Outer tube is same length as reg af twin outer.
Lower leg is same length as reg twin outer.

Even though they have longer travel, all internals are interchangeable. But some need other bits to fit in same cases. Some parts I don't recommend exchanging. Read on.

The extra travel. This cames from a longer damper tube assembly.
The lower leg and upper tube don't contribute to extra travel dimensionally. But, the lower leg has had the glide bush moved 20mm higher to accommodate the extra travel. This gives good overlap of fork tubes to reduce flex.
You could run the adv sport damper tube in reg af twin forks, but there isn't enough strength in the outer tube, combined with low placement of slider bush. Not enough overlap of fork tubes. A rider sag of say 70mm, would pretty much have the bush sit below triple clamp area. Which is lower than current set up. Current set up sits pretty much in lower clamp area. Not advisable at all.
Reg af twin slider bush location is approx 35mm from top.
Adv sport slider bush location is approx 15mm from top.


Aside from this, parts are identical. Even running the adv sport lower in reg forks, gives an extra 20mm overlap where bush sits.(Edit, 29mm measured). This helps reduce flex.
This is another option.
Here is a pic to illustrate.
I run about 65mm sag, so this pic relevant to my set up.
Red dot, slider bush location if you used adv sport damper tube in reg af twin forks. Not recommended.
Blue dot, current slider bush location, with my set up. Reg af twin forks.
Green dot, this is the slider bush location using adv sport lowers with reg af twin damper rod with either stock upper tube or using adv sport lower/ upper tube combo.
20181023_153058.jpg

In pic below, red line is top of Bush on reg af twin lowers.
Green line is approx were bush lives on adv sport lowers.
20181023_182212.jpg

Quick summary of parts that will fit but need to be together.
Adv sport damper tube and fork cap assembly. Longer tube, equals longer rebound needle. Adv sport rebound needle won't fit reg af twin due to length. Don't recommend this option in reg af twin forks, as stated earlier.
If you like the look of adv sport fork cap, buy it, rebound needle screws out and replace with reg af twin needle. Not really necessary.
The adv sport fork springs are longer. If you ran them, it would be advisable to trim spacer.
If bolting reg af twin damper assembly into Adv sport upper and lower, you use all you current internals. Straight swap.


As for the rest, dimensionally, all other parts fit. Different part numbers on some bits, but they fit.
Seals, bushes, spring spacer etc are all 100% interchangeable.
Adv sport outers tubes are a straight swap into stock triple clamps. Zero mods.
The lowers are also a straight swap.

This is my recommendations. From don't do to best option with oem parts.

Don't.
I wouldn't recommend using adv sport damper rod assembly in reg af twin forks. Not enough strength to accommodate additional travel. As mentioned above.

Better,
Run adv sport upper with reg af twin lower leg,
This option is more than adequate. Will certainly be a huge improvement over the regular Af Twin outers.

Best oem parts option.
Adv sport upper and lower legs, using reg af twin damper assembly.
You get less flex with stronger upper tube, plus more overlap of the 2 tubes.
Plus you get Kashima coated outers.

Part numbers,
Adv sport upper, 51410-MKK-D21
Adv sport lower, 51425-MKK-D21 right side.
, 51525-MKK-D21 left side.

With this option, if you have had your current forks re valved, just bolt together with your springs also, and away you go again. Less flex, better wearing coating. Simply, what Honda/Showa should have done in the first place.


The one thing I am not sure of is the slider bush to outer tube clearance on adv sport tubes.
Leaky seals on reg af twin forks is in part from to much slop in fork legs. The seal doesn't like it.
I run a shim, (0.05mm, gives total of 0.10mm when wrapped around), behind slider bush on mine to reduce slop. Forks feel better with it, and no leaks since.

(Edit, I have measured the ID of outer tube and the OD of the lower leg where bush seats on adv sport fork bits. The adv sport outer tube has same ID as reg twin tube, 47.06mm, but the OD on adv sport lower where bush sits, has slightly bigger OD, 43.96mm vs 43.86mm. In the order of 0.10mm. This is the same amount as what I shimmed my reg af twin bush to reduce slop. I didn't need to run shim behind bush on lower on new adv sport lower.)

I think I have covered it all pretty much. If not I will add what's necessary.
Hope this is of some value.

Edit, Just to add a little extra, @Greg the pole has put together some great articles and vids, with heaps of pics of his fork rebuild etc. The big plus is he has given a list of alternate seals that can be used. Thanks Greg.


And


Here are the measurements i have taken from new adv sport fork tubes.
Will start with upper tubes.

Regular Af twin outer tube.
Just below lower triple, 60.4mm
Half way down leg, 54mm
Just above where fork starts to flare out, 51mm
Area just above seal head, 55mm.

Adv sport outer tube.
Just below lower triple, 60.4mm
Half way down leg, 57mm
Just above where fork starts to flare out, 55.5mm
Area just above seal head, 60mm.

Substantial differences. The spot where fork tube starts to flare out and half way point are big improvements.
Half way down, tube material thickness is up by 3mm, from 2 to 5mm.
And just above flared area is up by 2.25mm from 2 to 4.25mm.
Engineer types, please correct me if I am wrong, but I believe strength increase by the square of the thickness, so in above cases, 9 times stronger and 5 times stronger respectively.
If this is the case. That's a big change. Flex will certainly be reduced in my application.
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Old 12 May 2019
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Wow, Squily! That’s beyond comprehensive, thanks! Whilst extremely useful, I think I’ve lost interest in Honda’s alternatives. I’m going to opt for, when funds allow, the Öhlins replacement forks.

The above will prove useful to many; thanks.
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