Don't worry about not having a GPS, generations of Englishmen have marched all over France using nothing but a map! Using a map gives you a better idea of the bigger picture and you will actually know where you are. I use a GPS and for navigating through cities it's wonderful, but I always have the map in front of me too. I use Michelin regional series mostly but a good ring bound atlas of Europe is ok.
As for the ferry trip to Le Havre, good choice. I like that overnight boat. I understand that there is an overnight boat now on the return voyage, which is great as it used to deposit you back in Blighty at 21.30. Then I'd have a 4 hour ride in the dark before my bed. I always pay the extra £12 and go in the club class lounge (no kids running around) find a nice bit of floor and sleep all night. Arriving in France at 0800 ready for a good days riding.
As Caminando the Gaul says, anywhere in France is good really. Get on the D roads and explore.
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