I've just been down there also- moving to Bordeaux for a while to escape UK. I am leaving my KTM 950 in a top secret location in that good city  with a hope of returning regularly for some fine rides in the region.
Saw a whole load of big trailies- particularly Affy Twins, Transalps and GSs. But then they are far more popular there than in UK. Found a selection of bike shops behind the Bassins a Flots/Base Sous-Marin, at the North end of the city- behind Boulevard Alfred Daney and on Rue Lucien Faure. There seems to be quite a strong biking community there. If interested there's even some ok 2nd hand trailies around there inc a Tenere I seem to recall.
Just outside the city are a couple of real specialists in the field, particularly- Baines Moto, Eysines (05-57-93-03-04)- a KTM dealer and apparently knowledgable about bike adventure stuff.
If you see a tatty Silver KTM 950 in the region (or beyond) give a wave. Jem.
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