Anodizing is a very simple, dirt cheap and easy process - also for the DIYer (I have never tried anodizin large aluminium items). It will leave a thin layer that is much harder than the aluminium. It doesn't crack or chafe, nor does it rub off or "rust".

You will need:

• a simple and cheap battery charger that will not easily turn off the fuse.
• A large non-conductive container (plastic) to house the item to be anodised
• A anode (your item to be anodised) and one or more sacrificial cathode (i.e. lead plates sourced from an old car battery - thorughly cleaned and sanded (poisenous - cover up and wear a mask)
• Conductive liquid (electrolytes) with cleaning and etching propertie, i.e. a caustic soda and water mixture
• a non conductive prop (wooden stick) and something to suspend the item to be anodised in the liquid filled container (steel wire)
• some copper wire want to

Method:

• Suspend the item to be annodiced in the non conductive and liquid filled container
• Suspend the cathodes at approximately equal distances on all sides of the item to be anodiced - in your case one on each of the short sides, and one or two on each of the two long sides, and one or two inside the case
• Hook the positive lead to your anoode, and the negative to your cathode. You will not want to subemerge valuable leads below the liquid, but instead use a copper wire - this as you don't want your charger cables to be neither sacrificed or annodised

You could if you want, anodice the item with color - i.e. in the color of your bike.

This method can be used to remove paint or rust from metal - leaving a rust protective layer - which is the only thing I have used this method for - even on items as large as a pannier. I have never anodiced aluminium.


For your intents and purposes, you might only want to anodise the inside of the pannier. In this case you would drop the container and only fill up the pannier (which you would have to set on a non conductive material, like a rubber mat).

I don't think lining your bags with anything that is not perfectly smooth, puncture free or waterproof - is a good idea. Water, smells, oils, dirt - will be absorbed into it - and cleaning it will be a hasstle.

Another option is to look into "helicopter tape" (automotive protection film).
This stuff was invented to put on helicopter rotors leading edge to preserve them for all the dirt and grit that pass through them on landing and take offs - significantly reducing the frequency for which rotors need to be replaced. It is tough, is applied and removed easily, and stretches to contours. You can buy it in sheets or tape forms. It is clear. It's not prohibitively expensive. Personally, I think I would have tried this route first - unless you can find a very thorough instructional video on anodizing panniers - and that is easily replicable to you.

If you go down the anodizing route - be very certain that you do not hook up the wires incorrectly - or you will sacrifice your panniers and be left with a beutfylly anodised led plate.

If you go down the anodizing route - the mix of electrical output, time or ammount of electrolyte will vary. If power or electrolyte is weak, you will require more time. It can therefore be a good idea to start easy and add a stronger solution of electrolyte and/or increase electrical output if you see no results after a day or two, and even more on day three or four, and so on. Maybe you have a perfect result in a matter of hours, maybe it will take a week. In any case, go onto youtube and research.

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