The number of times I had to pull over for a documents check has probably grown in my head more than in fact. The officers were always civil, with a mild undercurrent of suspicion, but isn't that universal with law enforcement? I recall checks always happened on the highways or open road between towns, and I can't remember ever getting stopped in a city. In 27 days, riding nearly the length of the island, over 1,800 miles, I was pulled over no less than 6 times and probably more like 8 or 10.

The pull overs were no big deal. No long delay and I never got hit up for a bribe. After a while I only produced the "driver’s license" document and sometimes threw in the passport. With very interaction, even stopping to ask for directions, the officer gave me a quick salute. A uniquely Cuban custom. I suspect the treatment of tourist changes every few years as the political climate shifts. I rode a F800GS and the headlight lamp is always on. Apparently riding with lights on is either reserved for emergency vehicles or is simply not done. The headlight might have contributed to getting pulled over, but it was never mentioned. People walking down the street would make a hand gesture like a duck quack, to inform me that my light was still on...regardless that I couldn't turn it off. After I figured out why people were quacking at me, I felt it was an indication that Cubans are in some way involved with the enforcement of rules. One day I counted 12 quacks.

There is a lot of good signage, but every now and then nada, when you would expect something. Like much of the emerging world, many of the streets have no name. Damn, now I have the U2 song going through my head...

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Peter B
2008/09 - NJ to Costa Rica and back to NJ
2012/13 - NJ to Northern Argentina, Jamaica, Cuba and back to NJ
2023 - Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia...back to Peru.

Blogs: Peter's Ride

Very interesting info on the Cuba ride.

The people gesturing at you because of the daytime headlight is
not something exclusive to Cuba though. It is quite common to receive
that fingers-opening - and- closing " quacking" or pinching-like gesture in Mexico and Central America.
I think the concern for daytime running lights is partly out of frugality, the idea being that running the headlight is not needed to see and it is using electricity in a wasteful manner and driving up your utility / fuel bill.
The same idea must probably be behind all those silly drivers in the USA
who refuse to turn on their headlights until after the sun has set

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http://advrider.com/index.php?thread....207964/page-5 then scroll down to post #93