Following this advice you will end up with too much stuff!!!! Or a very large truck.

Less is more. Keep It Simple S.

Changing an EFI bike to carbs is not easy .. much easier to just buy another bike!!!!!! I'd not consider changing any oilhead to carbs .. way too much work. Consider that the EFI brain provides the spark .. so you are still going to have the EFI brain, hall effect sensors, temperature sensors, knock sensors ...

EFI systems are reliable. They are not as easy to field fix. The key is understanding what goes on with the EFI system. HPN did that carby swap for rapid field fixes .. under racing conditions. A tourer has a LOT more time.

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Modern bikes run alternators .. not generators. On the oilhead bms the reg is a bosch regulator .. I'd bet a car one can be substituted ... and they are reliable ..

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Don't ride at night ... then you will not need the driving lights ... and saves some weight, money. You got to sleep some time .. may as well be at night!

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Specific to the R12 .. well oilheads -
Put on a new alternator belt and run it for at least a month before you take off. These belts have been known to fail.
Read up on the R12 canbuss sytem. Read up on the R12 EFI system. In particular the fuel pump controller failure work around - see UKGSer :::: For BMW GS Enthusiasts for a write up. Read and understand the systems on the bike .. that will help is anything does go wrong.

Albert - ... don't know what to say .. You can carry too much - overload the bike and you have a very bad trip. Big panniers just encorage more gear = more weight .... remember less is more.

The original post was about what spare parts to carry .. not equiping the bike ... General Guide = take only those spares that you know will fail or a high probablity of failure. Any part that will ware out during the trip should be replaced at least a month before starting out. And that is it ...

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Regards Frank Warner
motorcycles BMW R80 G/S 1981, BMW K11LT 1993, BMW K75 G/S

My wife and I are currently riding around the world (two -up) on our 1150GS. We went through Africa, Middle East etc.
I carry very little spares and tools, but it depends how much time you have. We have plenty time.
If you need parts on the way, there are a nice BMW Motorcycle dealer in Nairobi. I needed some parts while in Malawi and ordered it from the BMW car dealer, although they do not sell bikes, they have the bike parts listed on their system and will order anything you need, it will just take time. I'm sure that aplies for all BMW car dealers, and they are in every capital city in Africa.

I carry the following tools and spares with me:
Puncture repair kit with extra plugs, compressor. (I used that a lot)
Altenator belt. (Never used it)
Fuel filter
Standard tool kit that comes with the bike with extra pliers and shifting spanner.
Cable ties and Silicone.

You will probibly need tires in Nairobi, and can make sure the dealer there has it in stock before you arive. I got mine flown in to Arusha by someone who visited me there from RSA.


Good luck and enjoy

johan

I agree with Johan and yes the electronic parts catalogue from BMW is comprehensive and cover all car and bike models in the same programme. One problem with this though is that the parts salesman might not know enough about the bike models and the many variants to make sure the right items are ordered. Never get parts without using your VIN no.

At the same time I do believe that the bigger the fuel range on your bike as well as the capacity to carry life supporting liquids will allow you to travel routes otherwise impossible.
But be careful not to over load your bike, this might be the cause of needing extra parts on account of falling over to much or cracked and broken frames.
Take only items that you need to survive with and if your bike is older or have a lot of mileage, rather replace the parts you are not sure will make it with new ones before starting your trip with and leave the old ones with someone that can ship them to you should you get stuck.

Forget about the carbs on your 1200. The fuel injection systems are very reliable and the chances of it letting you down is really slim. Fuel injection does also increase your fuel range without carrying the extra bulk and weight of petrol and it is virtually maintenance free. When fuel injection does brake down it will bring you to a complete standstill, but so will a dropped valve as well, or a broken U-joint on the drive shaft but you can't carry a backup for all these likely hoods and even if you could take with a support crew with enough spares to build a complete new bike, you might hit a goat in the road and brake your foot. So as you can see you cannot cover all possibilities and I recommend to look at the most likely things that can happen and some that will happen and make sure you are well covered for those instances like for example, having a flat tire. To only rely on the repair kit supplied with the bike can be futile. You will need a pump because the CO2 cylinders can run out and a pump has unlimited supply of air as long as there is an atmosphere and a mussel in your arm. Extra tubes will also be a good idea but 1st try and repair your tire tubeless if you can and reserve the tube for when the bead came of the rim and you can't get enough air in to get to seal all the way around or when the hole is too large or through the sidewall. You must take at least one substantial tyre lever as it is much tougher to remove a tyre from a tubeless rim than a standard rim. For the second lever you can get hold of one of the really short ones, in this way you lever with the long tire lever and and put the short one right next to the long one after levering of a section. The short one will then hold the tire from slipping back while you remove your longer lever and move it over to lever over another section.
Having one short lever is just one way to save on weight as tire levers can be very heavy.

BMW's toolkit supplied with the bikes were normally very good and comprehensive enough to cover all basic repairs that can be done by the owner on the side of the road.
I don't know about the 1200 though as it was not supplied with a toolkit at the start but I think it was sold separately as an accessory. ????

Personally I do prefer the older GS' because they are much more maintainable in real remote areas and their simplicity makes it possible to make more comprehensive repairs in very basic workshops.

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...d-tourer-38880

Exactly Frank -
You took me litterally with no limit assumption. You too know that a 24L tank is far more prudent than a 18L and a Huskey tank is more prudent than a stock 24L - when going into the bush. I do however prefer different containers/canisters = if the bike smashes one, there is a second spare. Limit for petrol is; a bike that can be handled - I'd say somewhere around 30-40L even though there are tanks on up top 45L (if I recall correctly).
As for water - usually I see people bring a pint (0.5L) to larger Coke (1.5L). This is ok when on ordinary roads with shops and people around the corner so to speak - but when you're going off into the bushes so to speak; bring water in a supply that covers at least a couple of days (ca 5L/day).
As for the other recommendations:
changes, shelter, spareparts, etc - can be bolted on the bike or put inside panniers; I prefere inside panniers = dry and keeps bugs and creaps out as well. I never wrote -fill- the panniers... did I -
Panniers also have some other aspects - protecting the legs when falling over, gives leverage when needed to lift up, pull and push, frame stabilization. Easy to lighten the bike when need be - just take off the panniers; if it rains does not matter for the content; if tied to the bike => more work and can not be placed un a wet and muddy ground less one accepts even more work...

Yes - ALL extra stuff weighs, and ALL extra weight is something one swears madly about when stuck somewhere!!! I ride at winter - the opposite conditions to Wadis planned tour. I used to tie down the canvas cover to the bike on pillionseat - now I used the top-box to pack the cover in. I allways carry a 5L petrol can when on longer rides - does not matter if I use that petrol; it is my "in case of" spare volume. I also always carry a spare snowmobileoverall. Thats two (2) panniers filled and the extra weight is about 2-3kg merely. In africa - conditions are vastly different; opposite so to speak; but in africa there is heat, rain, bugs and creaps instead.

Of cause he shall load as lightly as he can -
Petrol and water are really essential - that is where I recommend him to focus on enhancement options.

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I did not adress spare choices - I drive /7 modells. I did recommend Wadi to look-up what the 1200 is prone to need. Planning a long drive/ride - demands full planning, hence my approach to trigger this very good and elusive discussion that have emerged -
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Alternator = Generator ; may differ between languages. Yes - stock car regulator/rectifyer - and it is a really expensive one to that is used on the modern Bosch "electric production units" as compared to the older. About 100USD (!) as comapred to about 10USD. Two major options available; Bosch and Hella - I buy patterns.

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Drive Safely,
Albert