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6 Aug 2009
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Your question is indeed tricky - the fault will be rediculessly obvious when located -
Note BMW "sickness" such as:
- oil leaking into the shaft from the gearbox.
- oil leaking into shaft from the bevelbox => lose nut => bevel about to get really badly damage.
In a way you kind of describe what happened to my 32/10 bevel - the bevel part connecting to the shaft suffered one bad ballbearing causing excessive travel. It was seen only as a bit more metal on the magnet than could be expected. My mechanic said I was over concerned... I drove -many- miles with a really bad bevel... broke some teeth... and what prompted me to check was that backing the bike became weird.
Svenska BMW MC Klubben • Visa trÃ¥d - Tandläkare sökes till slutväxel
If I had not used Omega 690 80W/90 the bevel would have jammed for me... the oil was still in very good shape after 40-45 000km incl the "broken" ballbearing(!) - point, change oil to look at the magnet(!) every 5-8000km or there about = very cheap "insurance".
Check you disc-brake. Check that you did install all parts correctly and bleeded the caliper fully. A warped disc / worn-out (common BMW sickness) could cause the sounds (but that kind of requires you to have touched the brake-pedal...).
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Albert
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6 Aug 2009
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more descriptions
i'll look ast the bevel too - but at the back of my mind is the thought that the fault should really be to do with something I've disturbed.
the sensation is similar, (if you have ever had the misfortune to ride such a worn out bike) to a chain that is so stretched that it climbs and jumps the sprocket, i.e a rhythmic twang !
does this help or just make things stranger !!
Regards Julian Delaney
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7 Aug 2009
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No that info did not make it more complicated - it simplyfied matters.
It is not the clutch.
It is not the gearbox (less you have the shock-absorber on the out-going shaft).
It it not the splines in the shaft.
It may be the shockabsorber in the shaft - it happens, rare but still.
It is highly likely to be a damaged bevelbox, very much like mine.
See, a clutchdrag - you would have noticed revving, hence excluded.
Ballbearings act differently; they will grind/rumble and make such noice that you will stop driving.
Splines just loose tracktion and sounds like a slow machine-gun (12mm at a distance).
What you are left with are:
- spring shockabsorber gone bust; not snapping over but giving way too much play; checked by turning the rearwheel in gear. A few inches of play is normal.
- bevelbox bearings and/or teeth bad, really bad. => acute dismantling before a seazure occurs (that -will- lock you rearwheel and send you skidding which may be an unpleasant experience, like into oncomming traffic...).
Use the stetocope method and listen to you bevel; a gentel whining is all there should be.
Change oil in the finaldrive to study the condition of the used oil, the magnet for any metal.
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Albert
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7 Aug 2009
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Motorworks (BMW spares supplier) seemed to think it was the bevel too, I am going to grasp the nettle over the weekend and make all the checks you have suggested. An added complication is I've just fried the diode board by not having the nuts tight enough on the earth points !!!!- ordered a new one from the above, this bike has become a money pit !!.
Thanks again Julian
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7 Aug 2009
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So sorry to hear you shorted your diodboard. The needed parts costs a few bucks, but soldering the new diods are said to be a trycky business.
I forgot one simple test you should do.
- Grap the gaitor at the u-joint. Get a firm grip on the u-joint, then turn the rearwheel. The ONLY motion you should feel is the play in the splines between the rearwheel and the final drive. IF you have more play than that (which feels less than the click of a ball-pen) something may be not so good... there should be absolutetly no detectable play between the bevel (crown sprocket?) and the u-joint - not even the slightes that you can feel with your hands. The play is measurable but with oil in the bevel and shaft you should not be able to feel it.
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Albert
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8 Aug 2009
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I've stripped the rear of the bike, cleaned the back wheel caliper etc, and given it a good looking over, the swing arm feels nice and everything seems as it should be.
I've decide whilst I can't do any dynamic testing until I get the electrics back together that I may as well restore the sub frame and get it back in good order,
I will try your later suggestion and let you know the results, just turning the wheel seems very smooth and the oil in the bevel looks like new - I don't want to drain it until I can listen to it running .
Thanks again
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8 Aug 2009
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I've pulled the gaitor back and rocked the wheel back and forth, I can move the wheel about 3mm only (measured on the tyre thread) before the universal joint moves, which feels to me like the slack on the splines between the wheel and the bevel. The diode board should come Monday , i'll try the rest of the test then. I've got my eye on a gearbox on Ebay just in case !
Julian
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