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Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



 
 
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Old 2 Mar 2009
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Calgary AB
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Not sure exactly what the gs650pd is, but I'm assuming it's the Rotax powered singled.

Mate, it's a great choice and in particular for South America. It's almost made for that environment. We just came back from 17000km there. Great on paved twisties and open dirt roads. Keep it light though. We took hard luggage, but in hind-sight soft would be more suitable because you will enjoy the ride more, which is where you spend most of your time anyway. Depending on the place you'll take it off course, but in SA people tend to keep their distance and won't touch a thing. Different in European cities and Asia.

It's a bike that you should do all your own work on. If you don't know how to, you may want to look elsewhere or delay until you do. It's not hard to do, but mechanics don't specialise in any particular model, and you have to live with it in the end. Check out F650.com, and just start by doing a full service run including valves. Add lubing steering head bearings to the schedule, and they should last like any other bike.

I'm still on the original parts, and I flogged the thing in Patagonia and Bolivia. Also broke the little frame in the rear boot area, but that was due to riding hard on the CA with a massive top box on it. Asking for it. It's only a little bracket not designed for it. Didn't shear the sub-frame bolts. They were changed with longer ones to make removal easy when sheared.

Never ride without fork gaiters (neoprene are my preference) and you should have no seals issues. If it's not a new bike, check the chrome and if there is any pitting I would get it re-chromed.

The water pump seals will go, but that's the same for other bikes. On other bikes they don't always (if ever) have a bleed hole though, which is a blessing for this motor. We saw an 640 and 990 KTM both with blown water pump along the way, so it's just part of it I suppose. Unfortunately the mechanics manual says to put grease in the voids and cavities, which is just plain stupid. And just another reason to do your own work. Mine went at 18000km. Keep it cleared and you will have a sufficient warning before your oil is contaminated. It usually leaks when you let it cool down due to the parts expanding and shrinking at different rates, so look for a little puddle of coolant underneight the foot peg. It's no drama though, and doesn't require an immediate fix, provided the oil is not contaminated yet.

The suspension is basic, but if you carry load, you should always look at changing the spring weights, anyway. Unfortunately I don't think there is a stiffer spring (looked but couldn't find one) for the shock, so upgrade would be best.

Forget about the VR problems. It's mostly a problem with the older versions which didn't have them in a well ventilated location. I would get a Datel volt meter though to keep an eye on the system. That way you will have more confidence about it. Depends on how much load you put on the system though.

The air filter is a crap paper one, common for a lot of bikes. KN is popular in Northern America, but down under Unifilter do a good one. I look at the KN oil and found it too thin, and because you have to use it with it apparently I went with the Unifilter, and now all I need it turps to clean it and thick sticky oil to oil it. Their oil is the best I've seen so far.

Have a look on my blog for mods. I've probably missed something.
Taco's Tyring Travels: Bike Modification (part 1)
Taco's Tyring Travels: Bike Modification (part 2)
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