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6 May 2011
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Third the opinion on the battery. I had the exact same problem last week when I broke down in Bulgaria. Bike kept cutting out, then when I went to start it, all lights on etc, press the start button and everything cut out  Then when the key wasn't even in the speedo went crazy and the time reset itself to 0:00. After checking fuses, wiring looms and relays we hadn't a clue. Took it to a garage and got truely embarrasses when the mechanic just tightened the connection to the battery and it worked fine! Oh well you live and learn
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6 May 2011
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I was about to chip in about the battery connection being a possible problem, due to a mate's bike which broke down in Bulgaria, but I see he is here!
Hi PK, wicked trip - where are the photos??
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6 May 2011
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Location: Aussie expat in Switzerland half way RTW
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voltage checks
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptothek
Third the opinion on the battery. I had the exact same problem last week when I broke down in Bulgaria. Bike kept cutting out, then when I went to start it, all lights on etc, press the start button and everything cut out  Then when the key wasn't even in the speedo went crazy and the time reset itself to 0:00. After checking fuses, wiring looms and relays we hadn't a clue. Took it to a garage and got truely embarrasses when the mechanic just tightened the connection to the battery and it worked fine! Oh well you live and learn 
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Hi Bjorn,
Sounds very much like a loose connection to the battery.
I also think if it isn't this then possibly Regulator/Rectifier or wiring loom issue causing short circuit. IF this is the case then it's likely that your battery will be discharged or will be flat in a very short time, no matter how much riding you do.
Get your hands on a multimeter (or voltmeter) to check the Batter voltage.
If you have less than 11.8V at rest then the battery is flat and probably needs to be charged. Less than 12.2V and the battery will struggle to start the bike. Ideal Voltage for a new battery should be between 12.2V-12.6V (for AGM or Gel it's around 12.3V-12.9V).
Then start the bike, and check the voltage of the battery, while idling it should be 13.7 to 14.3V less than 13.6V and this is weak charge. NB during start up (whilst pressing ignition) the voltage should drop to around 10.6V +/-0.5.
Increase revs to around 3-4000RPM the voltage should go up to around 14.5 to 15V.
If the battery isn't in the voltage ranges then there is a problem in the charging circuit which is depleting the battery. Then check all wiring and connections. Clean terminals and check the connections to the starter and Regulator/Rectifier.
Good luck and let us know how you get along.
Safe Riding.
Cheers,
Pascal & Arja
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6 May 2011
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My first guess, again, is loose or inadequete battery terminal connection.
Before tighten them, take them off and clean the battery posts and connector lugs to get rid of the glaze or corrosion that develops in such circumstances. Scratching/scraping with a blade is better than nothing if you don't have a file or abrasive paper.
Have you checked acid levels if it is a 'wet' battery?
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6 May 2011
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Hi Bjorn
this may sounds strange, but it happenend to us .... too
Pushed the start button and all lights went dead
In the end, we had to buy a new CDI
After we checked at a BMW dealer with diagnostic plug, it says damaged CDI and we had to get a new one from Germany
So, if all search for broken cables, etc. fail ....
Good Luck
Thomas
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6 May 2011
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Also there is a known fault on some bikes where the wires rub through where the mount for the rear shock adjuster bolts onto the frame that apparently causes the same symptoms. BMW put a recall out on some looms for this reason...
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6 May 2011
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Another week point in the electrics of the BMW F650 GS is the oil presure sensor. Sometimes they cause a shortcicuit.
__________________
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My bikes are a Honda GoldWing GL1200 and a Harley-Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide
My personal homepage with trip reports: https://www.krijtenburg.nl/
YouTube channel (that I do together with one of my sons): motormobilist.nl
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