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  #1  
Old 15 Feb 2009
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Dead 12GS......?

2004, 90k, Zero probs to date. Been everywhere in Oz, NOT babied. Rode home from town 3 nights ago, all normal. Go to bike tonight to head to town, insert key, turn same, NUTHIN! Not even a weeeny little squeek, letalone the normal sound and light show. You'd swear the battery was disconnected. So I check that, plenty of charge, but put on charger for a couple of hours, 't b sure!' Tried spare key. Tried a quick prayer! Nothin. Elzilcho. Total lack of any vital signs.
Suggestions.....?
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  #2  
Old 15 Feb 2009
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I can't think of anything, but then bike maintenance wasn't in my school studies. If you don't get any useful responses I'd suggest you post on UKGSer.

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Old 15 Feb 2009
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Have you checked the side-stand circuit? Just a thought.
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Old 15 Feb 2009
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Check the main fuse?
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Old 15 Feb 2009
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BMW will be able to plug in the diagnostic computer and find the fault.
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Last edited by mollydog; 25 Mar 2009 at 17:57.
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  #6  
Old 15 Feb 2009
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After just having suffered the failiure of my hall-sensor...

Dead - as in no spark or as in no startermotoraction?
If it turns over - do you have any sparks, any action in the HT-leads?
Or,.. dead as in dead - nothing what so ever happening dead?...

Had a very similar experience once - a ICU (ignition control unit) went bust between to startings as I was tuning carbs on a R100.

Though I too stick to the theory of a main fuse got blown -


Let us know what the fault was when you've located/identified it.
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Old 16 Feb 2009
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I think you'll find that the R12GS does not have any fuses or relays as it has a CANBUS wiring system.

If you turn the ignition on & ensure that the kill switch is in the RUN position, you should hear the fuel pump priming. If not, I'd look at the Hall Sensor (ignition pick-up) on the front of the engine which I think triggers the fuel pump or I'd suspect that the EWS ring (immobiliser antenna) by the ignition tumbler is faulty.

Your GS is an O4, early EWS ring's are not as reliable as later versions.

I'm not sure if there's a test on the Hall Sensor you can do with a multi-meter to determine if it's faulty or not? If there is, you'll probably need to check for resistance. I know that engine heat can cause the insulation on the 1150's Hall Sensor wiring to become brittle & then break down.

Get a dealer to plug the bike in to the GT1 workshop computer, that should diagnose the issue pretty quick.
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