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22 Dec 2010
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Contributing Member
HUBB regular
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vienna, Austria
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicky
Dear All,
Very many thanks for taking the time and trouble to answer my queery. I've got loads to work with and will keep you posted.
Best wishes,
Dicky
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Dicky,
As I´m experiencing the same issuesbeing stranded :-) - what was your result?
Kind regards from Puerto Madryn, Argentina,
Synt
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23 Dec 2010
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Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Kas,Antalya
Posts: 156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synt
Dicky,
As I´m experiencing the same issuesbeing stranded :-) - what was your result?
Kind regards from Puerto Madryn, Argentina,
Synt
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The German mate whose bike it was had a load of new stuff shipped over from Germany including the Hall sensor, a CDI unit and goodness knows what else. A friend of his put it all back together and the bike worked. Unfortunately I have no idea which single part was at fault. Sorry about the reply to your pm but I had completely forgotten about the incident. I sincerely hope that other, wiser, heads will be along soon to help you out.
Cheers,
Dicky
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24 Dec 2010
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Registered Users
New on the HUBB
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Reading, England
Posts: 5
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I have found the ICU to be very reliable, but I have had a failure with the insulation cracking on the old grey ignition coil. left me on the central reservation of the M25 at 1600 hrs Friday December evening. Oh Good.
Chile_bike is running a Ford Mondeo coil, the primary wired in series and the 2 secondries used to twin plug the beast, and it´s getting me fine to Ushuaia at the moment. The coil requires engineering to fit properly, if you jury-rig one of an old car - ENSURE THE COIL FRAME IS EARTHED....
If you are not twin plugged use just one primary and one secondry. Don´t run the coil without a load. I do know of a case with failed pickup coil, easily diagnosed with a meter, not so easily fixed. Don´t be frightened of electrics - it´s not wizardry.
sdk
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4 May 2014
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Registered Users
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 29
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I'm having a similar problem with my 94 gs pd. I can't get it to fire but it does have a spark. I'm wondering if the spark isn't strong enough.
Following the Clymer manual, I turned the key on and tested the voltage between the green wire and a ground and got 12(12.6) volts. The next step said to turn the key off, disconnect the black wire & connect a jumper from the wire to a ground and then turn the key on. The voltage should be within 1.5 volts of the original reading in the first step but I got a reading of .03 volts. If I turn the key off that jumps to 12 volts.
The way the troubleshooting directions are written once you get an unexpected result you should replace that component so I didn't test anything else to prevent a false positive.
Does this sound like a fault coil?
They're $260 from Max BMX (model 244 426) but I found one on EuroMotorElectrics.com for $165.
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4 May 2014
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Registered Users
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: SW France
Posts: 304
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How old is the petrol? Have you dropped the float bowls and checked there is no water?
Mine needs full choke on nice fresh petrol to start easily. A faulty coil usually causes rough running but doesn't affect starting.
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4 May 2014
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnon
How old is the petrol? Have you dropped the float bowls and checked there is no water?
Mine needs full choke on nice fresh petrol to start easily. A faulty coil usually causes rough running but doesn't affect starting.
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Gas has been replaced and it won't even fire with ether sprayed in the airbox and plugs are wet when immediately removed. I have clear fuel line and you can see fuel in the line. I dropped the bowls a couple times when this first started (I could get it started but not idle) and there was always fuel in them. Now it won't fire at all.
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4 May 2014
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Registered Users
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,131
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Don't fixate on teh igntion system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drumboy
I'm having a similar problem with my 94 gs pd. I can't get it to fire but it does have a spark. I'm wondering if the spark isn't strong enough.
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Once you have spark I'd be checking
Fuel? Are the spark plugs wet after trying to start it? Too wet = flooding. Too dry = no choke or no fuel in the float bowel.
Compression? Are the valve clearances set correctly? If too tight then the bike will be very hard to start. In particular check the exhaust.
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5 May 2014
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Registered Users
HUBB regular
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warin
Once you have spark I'd be checking
Fuel? Are the spark plugs wet after trying to start it? Too wet = flooding. Too dry = no choke or no fuel in the float bowel.
Compression? Are the valve clearances set correctly? If too tight then the bike will be very hard to start. In particular check the exhaust.
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I don't see how it could be fuel since I couldn't even get it to fire when I sprayed ether in the airbox and the plugs were wet immediately after.
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5 May 2014
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Registered User
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 377
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It will be the hall sensor, had the same problem with my R1150GS! Expensive but easy to fix.
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