Get used to it ... now that you are living in a BMW world. One consequence of BMW's like of a stable steering geometry is that you go through head bearings at twice the rate. Doesnt matter what quality of bearing to change to, its not the bearing quality that causes it, its the inherent stability in the geometry favoured by BMW. I like the way the geometry is on BMs, and have to add steering dampers, and less offset triple clamps to products that have come out of Mattighofen to try to increase stability. but the flipside of it, is you spend more on head bearings.

I never expedition without spare head bearings if I am on a BMW.


You are supposed to be on the road then ...

You will never get to Magadan if you prioritize HUBB meetings over travel!

HUBB meetings are for those who arent out on the road that summer !

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Trust me.... I'd be on my way tomorrow if my wallet wasn't made of onion skin. (It makes you cry when you open it)

I think I will need another 18 months saving before I can hit the road for Russia. And I want to spend 6-8 weeks in Indonesia this winter if I can get the time off

Its okay though. I'm doing a couple of back to bare metal bike restorations and welding projects to keep me out of trouble for the time being....

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Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.

That is astonishing. What is the failure mode, exactly ? Ruling out off-road chopper geometry the difference on loading of the headstock and associated bearing surfaces would be minor between say, a KTM EXC (114kg) and a KTM ADV 950/990 (closer to twice the weight of the EXC) and . . . while they do see very differing applications . . . I don't think you'll find a the failure rate of headset bearings being much different. In fact, the twitchy EXC (on road) might be worse. And it's not uncommon to change the triples on the ADVs to QUICKEN steering.

It also strikes me as a bit unacceptable, or at least highly undesirable, because while previously KTM ADVs often had water pump seal issues at 25000km that repair can be effected on the road, with almost no special penalty in tools that would be normally carried. Headset bearings ? Nyet.

Are the bearings just dry as previously mentioned ? (DRZ swingarm bearings are notoriously dry though nobody seems to be too generous there . . . ) Is the seal just a rain gutter into the bearings ?

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Orange, it's the new black.

I think Colebatch comes with important consciderations earlier on, and he didn't deserve the bashing. Opinions were sought and given. And, we are all a bit touchy feely when it comes to bikes, right? Kiss up and make friends - it is all with good intention.

The Bimmer in question though is undoubtably a very capable bike, it will take you anywhere you want to go, and do a decent job at it _ I really won't trust anyones judgement that oppose to this (that's just me). If I can take my classic Vespa scooter off road, over rocks, ruts, sand and mud in Africa (with a lot of pushing), the F800GSA will manage, promise! This is not the same to say that it is the most suitable at all things, like riding harcore offroad at higher speeds. But, I guess if you are experienced enough to willingly embark on a "mostly offroad" trip - you probably allready know this, right? If you are not, well then you will likely plan a trip with very mixed riding, most of it being both bike and biker friendly - and in such a case, the 800 won't have you banging yourself too much over the head too much of the time.

Do I want a F800GSA? Yes!
Do I want a 400'ish cc type offroader? Yes!

I currently ride the F650GS Dakar and also have a full blood F250WR enduro Yamaha as well (among other bikes). The Yamaha is by far the most agressive bike, and the most fun and easy to ride... but, even its road legal sibling, the service intervals, tank capacity, lack of subframe, etc - means that it is a no go type bike for me. I do infact like to bring more stuff with me tah fit in a simple saddle bag... and I am not too fond of numerous jerrycans.

Sometimes I wish the Dakar was lighter and more nimble, at other times I wish I had the better road and load traits of the 800. I want a new bike, but I can't decide which way to go, even though I am fully aware of the pros and cons of going bigger or smaller. The problem is the same that many of us share, I want to make the best compromise for the lifetime that I will own the bike. For the forseable future though, the offroading share won't be great - and as such, the larger Bimmer would be a great choice for me. But, for an extended African adventure, I would sell it in a heartbeat and go for something much much lighter - not because the bimmer wouldn't hack it, but because I would enjoy the trip much more travelling light - even my Dakar would be too heavy for my taste.

My two cents. If you plan to do a very long trip beyond places like western Europe and the USA, then I would go for a light bike. You never plan to do frequent short offroad trips, either you allready do or you don't, and you will then know what you need. If you'r bike is your daily ride at home, and you mostly do trips arround Europe, with a few weeks every odd year to places like iceland or morocco, maybe even as far as Senegal, then I would go for the 800. Ride all the way to Congo? I would think you would likely regret every ekstra kilo you brought with you. If you still can't decide - go light... it is also cheaper.

As for the rims - if they are crap - change them, right? Unless you go top shelf, the relative extra cost of the total bike and all the stuff that you will load it with, won't murder your piggybank (...if you are the kind of person that buys a brand new one of these... and all the riding gear and gismos that typically fit the uniform).

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From the link in the OP, the electronics are described as:_
"Mixture control/engine management Electronic fuel injection, digital engine management (BMS-K+)"

Does this mean that this model (or even all 800GSs) have the CANbus system?

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Dave

Yes. The only model in the current bmw range that doesn't run canbus is the g650 models.

I think the follow up question has to be, does the GS-911 tool also work with the F or is there a flash code or some other means outside an equipped dealer ?

Cheers

Andy

I believe it does work with the F series.

Most Japanese bikes either have in-built diagnostics as per your (and mine!) V-strom or are covered by HealTech.

TuneECU cover a lot of bikes as does DealerTool.

Yamaha Tenere owners can buy the official Yamaha tool for about sixty quid.

So no real excuse for the home mechanic to be stumped by all that electronic stuff; in many ways, it has made our jobs easier IMHO.