I went for 1100 path myself, in terms of "cheap and cheerful" as they say here.

I always consider a possibility the bike getting crashed/totalled or stolen. You can be almost certain you get no money back if someone totals your bike (not with your fault) in third world, insurance simply doesn't work there in most cases. I'm a poor bastid myself and thus don't want to lose an expensive 1150 or even more expensive 1200 I'm maybe being a bit too paranoid here tho., but this is the thing always to consider if your wallet isn't exacly a thick one. 1150 and 1200 look modern by outer design, while 1100 looks like from a previous century, so doesn't get any real attention from those eyes who may have a potential to steal it from you. If you got loads o' dosh to replace any bike any time, then things are different of course.

1100 and 1150 are exacly the same in terms on maintenance. Technically very similar to each other, also in performance. Dead easy to work on it your own, they're robust. Replace oils (engine, gearbox and bevel box), air filter and valve check/adjust etc routine works. My 1100s have been chepest running costs bikes I've had.

What I don't like about 1150 myself is the extremely tall first gear making it a bit bulkyer to offroad and more usage of clutch. Also 1150 is 6 kilos heavier than 1100 with the same configuration, ADV even more. If going 1150 I'd take ADV version with shorter 1st gear, pro for ADV is longer suspension travel, which is good if you're a skilled offroad rider. Tho 1150 ADV was much out of my low budget.

ABS was one of my requirements. More simple and proven ABSII (non-servo) that 1100 and early-1150s had was a pro, since there were some servo-assised ABS (later 1150) problems reported that made me a bit worry, altough this could be also my own paranoia (this ABS problem could be as well as "a tar drop in honey pot" phenomena and BMW says they have a solution for it). If ABSII fails somehow, it just disconnects itself and brakes work as normal brakes on a non-ABS bike.

If aiming 1100 I'd strongly recommend later 1997-1999 models. They are ironed-out ones, pre-1997 had some issues (mainly "lottery to failure" gearbox was the major one that kept me away from them).

1200 was a way out of my budget and although most of the issues are starting to be ironed out but you then need to buy almost new or a brand new one (£££). I've testridden 1200 and it's a superb bike, although the weight difference isn't that big as people say when you compare them through a comparison test ride, on tar there's almost no difference, on offroad you feel some difference, but not that big. Seat for me and especially for pillion is more comfty on older 11xx models. Performance is much better on 1200, more than I'd ever need tho. 1200, unfortunately, is out of my budget.

All of them boxers are good mile eaters and capable bikes, especially for cold and wet weathers we have here in Northern Europe - roomy, heated grips as standard, cylinders keep your feet warm and dry if you put additional flaps (I made them myself for example) you feel like home , just take the flaps off if going into a warm country. 1100 and 1150 have more boxer "character" apparent than the 1200 with balancing shafts, riding my 1100 always makes me grin, altough on 1200 you often grin thanks to it's huge torque. So any of them is an ideal bike for me if doing long travels, solo or 2up, using it everyday communiting and they're surprisingly capable and fun offroad too if you're not afraid to take a big trailie offroad. For me they represent a rare combination character and capability.

RS/RT are road-oriented bikes, engines are very similar to the GS cousins, just few more BHPs for road use and also maintenance intervals usually are almost identical. If riding on bad roads and offroad you need to aim for a big trailie.

650GS is very nice bike if you ride solo, I've ridden it for some longer distances: sufficient comfort and performance for solo but for my 2-up needs it is too small, both in terms of space/comfort for me and pillon and performance. Altough some can travel 2-up with a 125cc too...

So in the end, it depends from the rider, his/her needs and budget, as always... This was my, fully personal version. I'm sure some may not agree with my 1100/1150/1200 comparison.

Hope this helps, Margus

I´m searching for a GS1100/850 currently. This gearbox issue you mention, is there a fix for it or a set mileage in which the box brakes down, or is it literally a lottery through the entire lifespan of the bike?

I´m taking a look at an 850 one of these days, but the owner has advised me over the phone that the wheels (or just spokes, I´m not sure) are a little corroded, as is one of the shock´s mounting point. Is corrosion common on these bikes? This specific bike is 26000km old, from 1999, so I´m quite interested unless it´s a rust bucket.

There is another bike, a 1100, from 1995, with 47000km, but it looks sort of neglected by the pictures, and I´m not sure what to expect out of the "before 1997" thing.

Main point for buying a GS for me is to reliably and comfortably touring two up.

By the way, I spent an hour or two the other day, looking through your youtube videos. Do you have any advice regarding looking for issues when buying one of these bikes?

Pedro,

R850GSes are very good, little known and thus underrated bikes IMHO. If you can get one for good price and low mileage and suits you and your wife or G/F - I'd say go for it. 26 000 km, if not cheated, isn't even run-in yet! My both R1100GSes normalized their oil consumption just after 30 000 km - meaning they're run in from the top-end side. It's hard to beat telelever-GS for comfortable two-up touring in extreme range of conditions - from long 500+km transit days to technical offroad trails. A very sure-footed bike under heavy loads, something most bikes can't handle as well IMO. Theorethically 850cc's less torque means better gearbox bearings longetivity as well since it has the same parts as 1100. The smaller 850 boxer revs noticably smoother than the more grunty 1100cc big brother.

The spokes little corroding is normal, yet elsewhere I think R1100GS ranks among the least corroding bikes on planet Earth IMHO - the only things corrode on mine after 260 000km and 6 continents ridden (wet-season Salar de Uyuni salt-lake included) just tiny spots of corrosion on some spokes and more on the center stand (mostly from rock-hit spots) - everything I put on myself have corroded badly (TouraTech engine guards etc), but all the original bits are still mint after 16 years! Original paint, finish & bolt heads coating etc are top notch, puts many modern day bikes built cheap in todays economic climate into shame. Can't also say the same for the newer R1150s which tend to corrode alot more from what I've seen. So unless the owner lives some less than a mile from a salty ocean beach and keeps the bike outside 24/7 there shouldn't much rust.

Not much speciefic issues to look for on buying other than the usual second-hand machine buying. If you're a very suspicious person - Google on buying second hand bike buying "checklist" and go through it to minimize the risks and maximize your happyness!

Good luck,
Margus

What about the gearbox issue prior to 1997? What´s that about?

See here for the list of revisions.

Main things I consider making them better are: improved M97 gearbox design, double crankshaft seals (less prone to leak and destroy clutch), redesigned piston design ('98+ models, less oil-consumption) and anodized rims (much easier to clean! ).

..probably the best all-round bikes in the world...stronger than the jap bikes, better build quality..no chain-sprocket oil, grease, wear rubbish, no water leaks, radiator or hose problems, a dry clutch so ANY oil in the engine....full service in a couple of hours....none of the pathetic expensive electronic mumbojumbo canbus fangodango of the newer bikes..(you can get a working 850 or 1100 used for the price of a new shaftdrive for a 1200 from bmw?)..I am on my fourth 850, the last one had over 200,000 miles, still going strong..the second one, I had for 4 years, used and abused in all weathers, then sold for 400 euros MORE than I paid for it!!??.......ok the gearbox question...if it makes a noise, you will still get another 30 or 40 thousand miles out of it....IN THE WORST CASE SCENARIO, get a used gearbox off ebay for 100 or 200 pounds and change it in 90 minutes!!! ( use the procedure where you pivot up the rear subframe) grease the drive and pivot bearings as you put everything back together, and off you go round the world again.....the bearings are all standard cheap items (not the rear concave pivots, but these are 20 dollars or less from bmw)..! (You can put a gearbox in a bag and carry it on a plane as luggage, if you need it sent anywhere in the world..) BUT you can always strip them and most third world mechanics will have them serviceable in a couple of hours...The only drawback is they are heavier than lots of other bikes.