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23 Aug 2011
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Not that this will help, but the diagnostic process and error code descriptions make perfect sense, which isn't always the case.
Who changed the brake fluid? If a dealer was involved, introduce the idea that they may have powered the system up with the ABS unit dry. The brake fluid lubes the ABS unit, so if they had run it dry some sort of contribution might be in order.
No ones done any welding or jump starting have they? Ten years of handling warranty claims on ABS bits and these two pop up time and time again as the single most effective way to cause this sort of issue.
Andy
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23 Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie
Not that this will help, but the diagnostic process and error code descriptions make perfect sense, which isn't always the case.
Who changed the brake fluid? If a dealer was involved, introduce the idea that they may have powered the system up with the ABS unit dry. The brake fluid lubes the ABS unit, so if they had run it dry some sort of contribution might be in order.
No ones done any welding or jump starting have they? Ten years of handling warranty claims on ABS bits and these two pop up time and time again as the single most effective way to cause this sort of issue.
Andy
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Hi Andy,
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I already asked BMW to contribute and they said no. I don't really have a leg to stand on although I'm very peeved about the ABS failure. Basically I think that the ABS fluid when changed was over a year ago and the dealer is no longer handling BMW anymore so not going to help my cause.
Oh and no welding or any jump starting has been done on the bike. Although now that you mention it, I did short the battery to the frame when I was swapping out the old battery, there was a spark. Do you think that is could have triggered the ABS unit to fail?? I would be very surprised and would like to know more if you think it could be the cause...
Cheers
Pascal
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23 Aug 2011
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Pascal
I have a 2007 1200GS which has just completed a RTW with no problems so your problem is of interest to me. A rather stupid question possibly....... but if you turn off the ABS do the brake lights work then bearing in mind you have overridden the pat of the bike causing the problem ?
Martin
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24 Aug 2011
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Hi Martin,
The ABS failure caused the ABS to be off all the time so it was not possible to toggle the ABS (with the ABS button on the handlebar) during the failure.
On a bike with working ABS if you toggle the ABS off then the brake lights will work. They should always work, but check this, if not then you have a problem.
The problem with my bike and the ABS failure is that the error code (10220 when interrogated with GS-911 diagnostic tool) said that the CANbus didn't communicate to the ABS unit, it just timed out. The CANbus interpreted this as a brake failure so failed to interpret the brake switch activation on front and rear of the bike. Again all this was related the the ABS failure.
End result of all this complex ABS integration meant:
- no odometer
- no speedo
- no brake light
- and of course no ABS
IMHO this is a poor and very dangerous design, to have speedo and especially brake light dependent on the ABS unit.
Cheers,
Pascal
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24 Aug 2011
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On a final note, and as I've seen recommended on other forums and was recommended by multiple BMW mechanics, the ABS needs regular
maintenance. It also needs to be used. Some suggest applying ABS on a
semi-regular basis (ie. going downhill on loose surface or on wet grass) to ensure the ABS unit is exercised. Also I have been recommended to change and bleed the entire brake fluid at least every 2 years or 20,000kms as a minimum. I will do this more often now as it is a lot cheaper than a new ABS!!!
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24 Aug 2011
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IMHO the odd spark/short shouldn't do any harm, but if you combine it with a bad bit of soldering on the production line or the last percentile component in the quality range it might be enough to send it over the edge.
The "exercise your ABS" plan is utter guff. The ABS does a full self test valve cycle at each ignition on (the clunk click as the lights change sequence on the older systems, more subtle on later ones) and partially energises the solenoids every few seconds to confirm they are electrically OK. Deliberately cycling the ABS on wet grass (a surface it is not designed for) is only good for sales of new body panels, levers, mirrors and medical insurance.
Changing the brake fluid as required is a good plan to get water out. Don't do it too often and leave the ignition off until you have a fully bled and working hydraulic set up, the fluid lubes the pump and valves.
The routing of the brake lights via the ABS ECU is highly suspect IMHO. The whole point of CAN is to utilise the info you have over the whole network, so telling the ABS to "wake up" via the brake light change of state is a good use that will improve its reactions. The fact is though that this signal can be picked up via the general network, the ABS can be a "listener" without having any direct input. Strikes me that the boys in Munich ran out of capacity on the instrument module and rather than expanding it decided to put the brake light reaction into the ABS ECU. Running the actual brake light wires a whopping 1 meter less saved them something too. I understand such logic on a bendy bus or a truck with potential road train uses, but on a 2m long bike it's ridiculous corner cutting.
Andy
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24 Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie
IMHO the odd spark/short shouldn't do any harm, but if you combine it with a bad bit of soldering on the production line or the last percentile component in the quality range it might be enough to send it over the edge.
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Mmm, not convinced but you are quite possibly right even if I want to deny it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie
The "exercise your ABS" plan is utter guff. The ABS does a full self test valve cycle at each ignition on (the clunk click as the lights change sequence on the older systems, more subtle on later ones) and partially energises the solenoids every few seconds to confirm they are electrically OK. Deliberately cycling the ABS on wet grass (a surface it is not designed for) is only good for sales of new body panels, levers, mirrors and medical insurance.
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Agree with your sentiment and the technical aspect makes sense but what would you say about old brake fluid becoming (more) corrosive and detroying ABS filters?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie
Changing the brake fluid as required is a good plan to get water out. Don't do it too often and leave the ignition off until you have a fully bled and working hydraulic set up, the fluid lubes the pump and valves.
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So do you think that brake fluid goes bad (ie corrosive and detroying seals or filters) or not? Could this be the cause of the ABS failure?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie
The routing of the brake lights via the ABS ECU is highly suspect IMHO. The whole point of CAN is to utilise the info you have over the whole network, so telling the ABS to "wake up" via the brake light change of state is a good use that will improve its reactions. The fact is though that this signal can be picked up via the general network, the ABS can be a "listener" without having any direct input. Strikes me that the boys in Munich ran out of capacity on the instrument module and rather than expanding it decided to put the brake light reaction into the ABS ECU. Running the actual brake light wires a whopping 1 meter less saved them something too. I understand such logic on a bendy bus or a truck with potential road train uses, but on a 2m long bike it's ridiculous corner cutting.
Andy
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I pulled up stumps on this one. No idea what would posses them to have such a dependency - makes no sense at all to me.
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25 Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboCharger
Hi Martin,
The ABS failure caused the ABS to be off all the time so it was not possible to toggle the ABS (with the ABS button on the handlebar) during the failure.
On a bike with working ABS if you toggle the ABS off then the brake lights will work. They should always work, but check this, if not then you have a problem.
The problem with my bike and the ABS failure is that the error code (10220 when interrogated with GS-911 diagnostic tool) said that the CANbus didn't communicate to the ABS unit, it just timed out. The CANbus interpreted this as a brake failure so failed to interpret the brake switch activation on front and rear of the bike. Again all this was related the the ABS failure.
End result of all this complex ABS integration meant:
- no odometer
- no speedo
- no brake light
- and of course no ABS
IMHO this is a poor and very dangerous design, to have speedo and especially brake light dependent on the ABS unit.
Cheers,
Pascal
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Thanks for the heads up Pascal - I am pleased that you are up and running and now I think it may be time to change my brake fluid !
Also Thanks to ThreewheeledBonnie for your input.
Martin
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26 Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strimstrum
Also Thanks to ThreewheeledBonnie for your input.
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+ 1
I concur, Thanks!
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28 Aug 2011
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Mornin' Guys n Gals,
back in 2005, my R1200GS had two ABS pumps replaced under warranty when they failed with the same symptoms as yours. After 19 months of ownership (from new) and only 18,000 miles, I had enough of all of the faults and sold it on. I'm sure the next owner ended up with a great bike, as so much of mine had been replaced.
2 x ABS pumps,
1 x instrument pod,
3 x gearbox potentiometer switch,
1 x engine front cover,
2 x fuel pump sender unit,
to mention but a few.
I've had quite a few Beemers from new before without a single problem so I reckon I'd just got a lemon.
Regards
Reggie
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