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26 Apr 2016
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most likely dirt in / bad check valve letting the cases fill with oil even after a few hours.
if anything else was suspect, there's no reason the engine would stop smoking after a while.
easy to check:
check your oil level after a long ride.
check again after an overnight, if level dropped considerably, then it's a bad check valve
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27 Apr 2016
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Sidenote to the above... Oil expands when hot. I think in our bike with a good amount of oil, the difference could be 1-2dl in volume from very cold vs very hot. (I think i calculated the difference once, but cant recall the exact number)
Take notice of how much you drain
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27 Apr 2016
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Smoke on startup but not when normal running is valve seals , oil seeps past and settles on the piston when it's sitting . I polish valve ends to keep from tearing new seals.
The rings are 95% fully seated within the first 15-20min running . I tested one new motor and it reach 90% of its final compression in 5min, then took another 10 minutes to get the rest . After the 30min mark it was done (208psi ). Never, ever, ever, use synthetic or semi synthetic(not as bad), they prevent seating .
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27 Apr 2016
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JJ, what is your suggestions for breaking in a newly bored cylinder, new OEM piston and rings? I am a few days away from starting it.
__________________
'84 XT600 is now bored to 2nd oversize and new OEM pistons and rings installed. No more smoking.
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27 Apr 2016
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I had noted it in another thread (and got bashed for it  ) , just start it up letting it warm for a minute or 2 but be ready to ride it . take it through the first three gears no more than 2/3 throttle , hold for a bit then release the throttle and let the motor slow the bike down . Do that for the first 10-15 min ( reasonably high rpms, then use the motor to slow down). this forces the rings against the hatch marks in both acceleration and deccel). Change oil & filter . It's now mostly done but I don't run full rpms for 100 miles at least , always varying the throttle and will heat it up good for 10 min then shut down to cool till it's past the 1/2hr run time. No sustained high rpms for 250-500miles.(Change oil ?? or not , what ever a person wants here)
The one I tested throughout break-in for compression had been done in my garage using the rear brake for loading . Shutting down every couple minutes to check compression.
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27 Apr 2016
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The above break in is pretty good but I would add that HEAT CYCLES are also very important in the first 200 miles of operation on a new motor or new parts.
Run bike as described above ... then park it 10 minutes, let cool.
Repeat, Repeat, Repeat ... you're done!
This is how both Honda and Suzuki have done it with 30 new press test bikes at
new model launch. A few heat cycles and straight onto the track where they spent the next two days at redline!  No problems.
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28 Apr 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboguzzi
most likely dirt in / bad check valve letting the cases fill with oil even after a few hours.
if anything else was suspect, there's no reason the engine would stop smoking after a while.
easy to check:
check your oil level after a long ride.
check again after an overnight, if level dropped considerably, then it's a bad check valve
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What do you mean with "bad check valve" ?
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28 Apr 2016
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Any info regarding the heat cycles? My bike never got hot after a rebore and new piston...At leats no heat was transferred to the oil to show an oil temperatre above normal...?
Oeh yeah, most new bikes are just about redlined on a dyno before they even leave the factory... So theres the ring seal and and heat cycle for ya
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28 Apr 2016
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Heat cycles just let new parts expand (heat) and contract (cool), allowing parts to scuff each other and speed break in due to expansion and contraction.
I figure if Suzuki, Honda and Triumph use this technique on new bikes then it should be OK for a new bike or newly rebuilt bike. I still follow break in procedures after doing heat cycles, like never running at steady RPM and never lugging the motor. I also like to snap off throttle and coast down. All this is good for a new engine, valve gear, rings, et al.
PS: you are right, OEM's do rev them to test them, check oil pressure. I've even heard they do this with ONLY assembly oil ... crankcase empty of oil.
But I didn't see this myself ... so can't verify.
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29 Apr 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danimalu
What do you mean with "bad check valve" ?
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yo, lets not hijack this thread
study a bit your oil system from the manual. under the right side cover there is a check valve with a steel bal and spring that "should" prevent the tank draining oil to the motr when not working
open the right cover and youll see it
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30 Apr 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboguzzi
yo, lets not hijack this thread
study a bit your oil system from the manual. under the right side cover there is a check valve with a steel bal and spring that "should" prevent the tank draining oil to the motr when not working
open the right cover and youll see it
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Aaa,and how i check if it's ok?
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30 Apr 2016
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the ball should move freely, no dirt trapped between ball and seat, sealing o-ring might be squashed and old-change it . dismantle it all, good clean in solvent, remount with fresh o-ring, be careful not to let any sealant into the valve. the o-ring doesnt need sealant to seal
but before you jump into this, do the very easy check i proposed you before the thread went into fresh-motor-run-in mode
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30 Apr 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboguzzi
the ball should move freely, no dirt trapped between ball and seat, sealing o-ring might be squashed and old-change it . dismantle it all, good clean in solvent, remount with fresh o-ring, be careful not to let any sealant into the valve. the o-ring doesnt need sealant to seal
but before you jump into this, do the very easy check i proposed you before the thread went into fresh-motor-run-in mode 
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Thank you!
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30 Apr 2016
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I saw your video on a better screen now . It's your valves seals . The way it took a few seconds after starting to start smoking , got bad , then slowly tapered away , that's the seals . Rings would smoke right away , then get worse as it warms up and have some smoke the entire time it is running . Your's quits after a minute or so right?
Too much oil would simply smoke till the oil is gone or force it out somewhere and drip on the ground . The check valve has nothing to do with it other than making it harder to check oil , even then if the valve was shot the scavenge pump will keep the motor from filling and you check the oil level in the tank as soon as you shut it off rather than waiting a couple minutes.
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