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20 Oct 2011
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mezo has the right idea but slightly off. you should push pedal, open and close bleeder quickly, than release so you do not suck air back into the line. pump a few times to build pressure and repeat. some brakes are tricky ive spent up to 45 minutes on a front caliper but i tend to be a bit meticulous with my brakes as they are life savers.
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20 Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pboko2388
mezo has the right idea but slightly off. you should push pedal, open and close bleeder quickly, than release so you do not suck air back into the line. pump a few times to build pressure and repeat. some brakes are tricky ive spent up to 45 minutes on a front caliper but i tend to be a bit meticulous with my brakes as they are life savers.
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I'll check all available systems then!
Mezo's sequence:
1) Loosen bleeder
2) Push pedal and hold it
3) Tighten bleeder
4) Release pedal and again 1) and so on.
And checking fluid reservoir level, refilling when necessary. This one looks really appropriate when I did it.
Your sequence, to try is as well:
1) Push pedal (and hold it, I assume)
2) Loosen bleeder
3) Very quickly tighten it
4) Release pedal... and again 1) and so on.
Is that right? Reservoir cap always out, since we'll be refilling, I assume.
Question: no syringes at all? Because stupide me I forgot to control fluid level and let lots of air to get in the 1st time! 
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20 Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estebangc
I'll check all available systems then!
Mezo's sequence:
1) Loosen bleeder. at the same time do 2
2) Push pedal and hold it. when and as peddle reaches end of play (bottoms out) do 3
3) Tighten bleeder to prevent return of oil and air
4) Release pedal and again 1) and so on.
And checking fluid reservoir level, refilling when necessary. This one looks really appropriate when I did it. Spot on!
Your sequence, to try is as well:
1) Push pedal (and hold it, I assume)
2) Loosen bleeder
3) Very quickly tighten it
4) Release pedal... and again 1) and so on.
Gosh! Esteban I hope the two above don't mind me butting in and adding to the instructions above coz they are both correct!
Is that right? Reservoir cap always out, since we'll be refilling, I assume. yes
Question: no syringes at all? Because stupide me I forgot to control fluid level and let lots of air to get in the 1st time! |
Gosh, dont know how but went into "qoute" and changed original posting (not my original intention) yet I hope it helps.
Best to understand the princibles of bleeding first.
You nearly there, dont go to the mechanic thing when you need this knowledge yourself.
Some one correct me if I'm not right in saying this for the brake disk, but it is often recommended to replace the mounting bolts when replacing the disc, is it not?
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20 Oct 2011
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If I am able to: a) push the pedal and loosen the bleeder at the same time and, b) then tighten the bleeder when the pedal reaches its end, c) repeat this for 45 min (as Pboko did once), then d) I'm sure I could work in the Chinese circus or become a Shaolin Master! 
Understood, I'll try tomorrow and Saturday morning.
Those rotor screws are damn expensive!!!! Confirmation, pls?
THX again, Socks (getting to Switzerland next spring? Don't forget you won a "worth a Paella" coupon!) 
PS: I guess I rushed a little and did not do my homework well before getting to the bike (touching all over I read: beware of asbestos in old brake pads! Nice. Clymer Manual talks about rear drum, printed (scanned) Workshop manual has crappy photos and the 3rd manual is in German! So got totally lost in the garage!)
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21 Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estebangc
If I am able to: a) push the pedal and loosen the bleeder at the same time and, b) then tighten the bleeder when the pedal reaches its end, c) repeat this for 45 min (as Pboko did once), then d) I'm sure I could work in the Chinese circus or become a Shaolin Master!
Understood, I'll try tomorrow and Saturday morning.
Those rotor screws are damn expensive!!!! Confirmation, pls?
THX again, Socks (getting to Switzerland next spring? Don't forget you won a "worth a Paella" coupon!)
PS: I guess I rushed a little and did not do my homework well before getting to the bike (touching all over I read: beware of asbestos in old brake pads! Nice. Clymer Manual talks about rear drum, printed (scanned) Workshop manual has crappy photos and the 3rd manual is in German! So got totally lost in the garage!) |
It is possible do do this on your own, simply a lot easier when done with a second person, it goes something like = you (or she) say "in" (pull brake lever in) as one of you says "in" the other opens the bleed nipple, when and as soon as the oil (with bubbles) is let out , close bleed nipple, as you (or she) says "closed" (cerca) once closed you or she lets lever return to relaxed position and so it goes untill no air bubbles and all the old oil is replenished.
Wow! No spongy brakes, and the click may well be the valve in the resevoir opening and closing.
So Estaban, I looked it out and its not nessasary on the xt to replace those rotor screws,(unless damaged)thats another story) sorry about the fright on that! but do loctite (just one small drop goes a long way) them back in. If indeed this needs replacing? IE; badly scored and therefore minimum contact to brake pads or warped disc. If this is so, why? Wear limit for my xt 600 3aj, acording to W/shop is 3.5mm. check this out for your model.
Good luck for you both over the week end.
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21 Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estebangc
Your sequence, to try is as well:
1) Push pedal (and hold it, I assume)
2) Loosen bleeder
3) Very quickly tighten it
4) Release pedal... and again 1) and so on.
Is that right? Reservoir cap always out, since we'll be refilling, I assume.
Question: no syringes at all? Because stupide me I forgot to control fluid level and let lots of air to get in the 1st time! |
Yeb, thats how I do it aswell. Between step 3 and 4, I usually pump the pedal a few times, before i go to no. 1. Not sure if it makes a real difference, but thats my thing
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22 Oct 2011
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yes jens it does help, it builds pressue in the system. i didnt realize that i didnt mention it as i ment to
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22 Oct 2011
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R.I.P. 25 November 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens Eskildsen
Yeb, thats how I do it aswell. Between step 3 and 4, I usually pump the pedal a few times, before i go to no. 1. Not sure if it makes a real difference, but thats my thing |
Nope your dead right there Jens i forgot to mention that, it does help to build up the pressure.
Mezo.
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24 Oct 2011
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Thanks to all. I will try the perfectionned procedure with more pumping!
My girlfriend could not handle the 215kgs (more than 4 times her weight!) turning around cones and dropped the CBF a couple of times on Friday night already, so postponed the course and I (we) cheated the XT and went for a short trip with me riding gf as a pillion.
Conclusion: sorry, but I still love much more the XT thumping and will get back to her today again! No rush, so probably rotor change inmediately.
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24 Oct 2011
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If the rotor is worn it makes sense to renew it at the same time as the pads then they bed in together rather than bedding the pads to the old disc making them less efficient when you put a new rotor on. Make sure the pads and disc are clean, not contaminated with fluid or oil.
Sometimes it helps to keep the system pressurised overnight, wedge the peddle down or tie the lever back,
Try altering the routing of the flexible pipe whilst you're bleeding the system, if it loops up tie it so it loops down or vice versa.
Be very careful opening the bleed screw whilst the system is under pressure, you could get brake fluid spraying in your face/eyes.
Good luck (a friend has renovated his RD 500 but can't get a good back brake, even having the calliper off and in different positions)
__________________
Anything can happen in the next half hour
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2 Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oothef
If the rotor is worn it makes sense to renew it at the same time
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New rear brake disc/rotor installed with (almost) new pads!(I tried a moment the pads with the old disc and they got a little worn with the grooves/lines in the old rotor, reason to follow the "change all" advice).
But before I keep on with your wise (clumsy-proof) advice about the bleeding…
With the bike stopped on the center stand, I pushed the wheel for a couple of turns… and the brakes pads are touching/chafing the disc (the previous brake pads were at the end also touching it all the time, so it got worn…). "What keeps them separated?", I thought. Looked around and pulled out the sort of tabs of the "springs" (see photo) that support the brake pads, in case they should be pushing out the pads when not braking (those tiny things cost 32€ new in Yamaha France!). They pull more now, but the pads are still touching.
It is very hard to push the piston back (probably normal), so I put WD40 around the rubber joint, since I was told so once. Same scratching. I don’t have those shims (what is that?) they mention in the workshop manual, nor have I cooper grease, could that be, do they stick the pads to the caliper??? I am reading 2'5 manuals (in German way toooo hard) and I'm still lost with those details. I understand the basics of the way the brake works, but not more than that, I guess.
What is wrong / what am I doing wrong? Or am I just too impatient and once properly bled it won’t touch (does it make sort of a vacuum with the piston to pull it out; how do you stick the pads then to use that force)?
I read and run fast … but ignorance is quicker than me and catches me soon and easily!!!! 
Last edited by estebangc; 3 Nov 2011 at 00:32.
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