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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



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  #1  
Old 25 Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big AL H View Post
i had a gforce can on my old ttr and it was muchos noisy on the overrun, often with foot long flames banging out of the can
Erm that sounds pretty good I want flames coming out of mine
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  #2  
Old 25 Oct 2012
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If you have a lot of popping on decel, you either have an exhaust leak, or youre are running slightly lean on the idle jet/Co screw (fuel screw)

On my xt600e, I needed to go up on the idlejet, after fitting oversized headers, laser produro exhaust, and the top of the airbox removed, together with using a pipercross foamfilter.

The stock needleposition and mainjets were fine, actually the stock mainjets was still ever so slightly rich.

The Co/fuel-screw is just that, a fuelscrew. The more you loosens it, the more fuel it will flow, up to around 3 turns out, after that it cant open for more fuel, and you need to go up in the idlejet, turn in the screw, and start to loosen it again. You loosen it untill you have the strongest idle on a warm engine, after that you tighten it 1/4 turn. (rule of thumb)

Hope you can use some of the above.
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  #3  
Old 25 Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens Eskildsen View Post
If you have a lot of popping on decel, you either have an exhaust leak, or youre are running slightly lean on the idle jet/Co screw (fuel screw)

On my xt600e, I needed to go up on the idlejet, after fitting oversized headers, laser produro exhaust, and the top of the airbox removed, together with using a pipercross foamfilter.

The stock needleposition and mainjets were fine, actually the stock mainjets was still ever so slightly rich.

The Co/fuel-screw is just that, a fuelscrew. The more you loosens it, the more fuel it will flow, up to around 3 turns out, after that it cant open for more fuel, and you need to go up in the idlejet, turn in the screw, and start to loosen it again. You loosen it untill you have the strongest idle on a warm engine, after that you tighten it 1/4 turn. (rule of thumb)

Hope you can use some of the above.
Appreciate the information..do you mind sharing you 'new' jet sizes?
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Old 26 Oct 2012
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I have a different carb now, but back then I went from a #46 idlejet to a #50, but I #48 would probably have been enough. I left the needels alone, and actually went down one size in mainjet on the primary carb.

Theese aircooled bikes come fairly rich stock, eventhough you often hear otherwise. I had mine on a dyno to be sure.

Heres the graph, stock bike with opened airbox, pipercross airfilter, and the tip of the exhaust removed, still slighty rich overall:

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  #5  
Old 26 Oct 2012
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Excelent..so i only need to change the two jets?
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  #6  
Old 27 Oct 2012
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I would just go up one on the idlejet and call it a day.
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  #7  
Old 27 Oct 2012
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Again thanks. Slight confusion though..in an earlier post you suggested lowering the needle jets by one clip...is that from the pointy end up or blunt end down?..technical language i know
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  #8  
Old 29 Oct 2012
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Originally Posted by Panzer View Post
Erm that sounds pretty good I want flames coming out of mine
Straight through can and don't do the clamp up too tight ;-)
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  #9  
Old 1 Nov 2012
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taken the carb off and apart today. Mainjet is 150 and idle jet is 50. Any guidence on what size(s) to go for would be appreciated.
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