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28 Mar 2007
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Hi Auke,
Thanks for your thoughts on this; as I mentioned, I "hope" this is caused by shaking the fuel tank around and getting a bit of muck in the wrong place - Been trying again today and it starts up much as I described yesterday, however today it needed about 1/4 of the choke setting to get going, after a lot of kicking (around 30 times)!
That pilot jet screw is not exactly easy to get at! I guess I need a right angle screwdriver unless you have a better idea; there are loads of pipes in the way for a normal screwdriver handle.
The bad news is that I took another look at the kickstart decompression cable (that I adjusted recently) and the bottom end came away in my hand (I have not had this bike very long, so everything on it is new to me). It does not appear to be threaded on that end so I guess it has snapped off at the kickstart connection (and it looks like a case of removing the cover plate that lies behind the general area of the footpeg to replace it - does anyone know if this is that simple?
Thanks again,
Dave
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28 Mar 2007
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Easy
To change the decompression cable. Remove tank, footpeg, little cover. Shows itself.
Adjustment of mixture screw: I always use a flat screwdriver bit, like the ones they use in batterypowered screwdrivers. I explain the blisters after the adjusting to my closests by saying I poured boiling teawater over my hand.
Gd lk!
Auke
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28 Mar 2007
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Thanks again for the info.
In my 2004 manual it does give the pilot screw setting as 2.75 turns out +/- 0.5, or 3 1/2 turns out, depending on which page you read!
I've been behind that little cover to find just a clevis pin on the end of the spring loaded lever and the bike is now just about impossible to kick over, so I am guessing that it snapped today.
So, I am now looking for a new decompression cable as well as a new speedo cable (I haven't mentioned that before, but it snapped on my first ride!)
Does anyone know a reliable supplier of such cables for the TT600R (online or mail order) because no one seems to carry them in stock is my experience with the speedo cable hunting to date.
Cheers
Dave
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28 Mar 2007
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I used MOTOWARD, I looked at my microfiche and found it was the only blurred number on the bloody thing! I phoned them and he knew straight away which cable and popped one in the post (de-comp cable). Adjust cold to 1mm free movement as described in clymer XT manual.
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28 Mar 2007
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Decompression should be set when the bike is stone cold.. and to the book specification..
I would remove and clean the carb, put it back to factory settings and check there is a good CONSTANT spark.
Ed
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Rode some bikes.
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28 Mar 2007
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Thanks for the updates guys!
I was afraid there would be more work to do!  Not looking forward to pulling the carb to bits because it is many years since I did that and my 2004 cd says that this beast has two of them with mutiple jets in the primary one.
So, are there any hot tips on what to watch for when stripping the carb(s), bearing in mind that my cd refers to the 2004 model that I guess has an automatic choke and whatever else came along since 2001?
I guess I may as well get on with this while I am getting the new cables ordered - thanks for the suggested supplier, Leigh.
For the spark, is there any particular reason to say this must be "CONSTANT"? - being a 4 stroke, it should fire once every two rotations of the crank?
Thanks once more,
Dave
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28 Mar 2007
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Your original post says it has just recently gotten hard to start as opposed to not so hard to start earlier.
This means something has changed
Possible culprits could be a very dirty airfilter (makes the mixture very rich)
or valves getting tight ( check them especially if the bike has high mileage)
old sparkplug
The fuel filter (screen) inside the tank AND the itty bitty screen inside the carb bowl
If you have fuel and a good spark your TT should fire regardless of a broken decomp cable.
Lotsa luck
Lar
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28 Mar 2007
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Thanks Lar, More work, so be it!! Where is that filter that is in the bowl - is it obvious when the bowl is opened?
Cheers,
Dave
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