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Running XT 600 on one litre of oil Running XT 600 on one litre of oil
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 27 Jul 2016
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Running XT 600 on one litre of oil
I've just bought a 1997 XT 600, ridden it home and then checked the oil level. It has taken 2.3 litres to get the level about 2 cm up the dipstick which suggests to me that the previous owner has been running this on less than a litre of oil. I can't believe it hasn't seized. Does this even sound possible or does anyone think there may be some fault in the recirculating system? The seller said he was riding it every day so I have no idea how many kilometres have been done. It could of course just be more evidence of how bullet proof these things are.
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Old 27 Jul 2016
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Take bike for a ride, when you come home let it idle for 3min and check stick. I think you have overfilled it now, sometimes oil is not even in system or you have problem with valve and oil is down in engine. Best way to find out drain engine and front and measure.
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Old 27 Jul 2016
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Thanks xtrock. I did take it out for a ten minute spin after adding 1.7 litres and it still showed nothing on the dipstick. When I got back I put in another 600ml and finally saw oil on the stick. I'll do it again this afternoon but I think your advice about changing the oil is probably the best. The original oil must be horrible by now.
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Old 27 Jul 2016
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Yes you should have drained it at the beginning. there was one guy that only drained engine and refilled 2,8l.. Never know what people do so start from the beginning and change filter, new brake fluid, new oil fork, check brake pads, chain, sprockets, wheel bearings, 3tb have grease nipples on the swingarm and linkage, you have on the linkage.
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Old 27 Jul 2016
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Expanding on this a bit. This engine is a "dry sump" engine. It is not exactly dry but the bulk of the oil is external to the engine in a tank or in the frame depending on the model. The engine has a flow back check valve that is supposed to stop oil from draining back into the sump when not running. This valve is not perfect and if the least bit worn or dirty the oil will drain back. Checking oil after sitting for quite a while will always show the oil to be low, never fill it based on this.

As already stated, run the bike for a few minutes around the neighborhood to warm it and get the sump all pumped out of excess oil. Check oil soon after shut down making sure the bike is upright.

The flow back valve is a steel ball and a replaceable rubber sealing surface located at the bottom of the clutch cover case. It is very easy to replace, the rubber seat is all that needs to be replaced as the steel ball is rarely defective. Be sure to have a replacement clutch cover gasket in case the old one tears and they usually do.

This is a recurring theme with new owners. This why I expanded on this for those who come along and read and learn. This is what forums are good for.
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Old 27 Jul 2016
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Thanks for the helpful replies. I hadn't thought of the possibility that the oil might all be sitting in the sump. At least I've now got a handy checklist of all the bits I need to do before I get out and have some fun on it. Now I just have to find a manual.... (The links in the Sticky section at the head of this forum don't seem to be working anymore).
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Old 27 Jul 2016
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Try this one, you dont need for the 4pt, 3tb have same spec on most of the tech stuff. Repair / Service manuals - Yamaha
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Old 28 Jul 2016
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Thanks for the detailed advice steveloomis. As you probably guessed this is my first attempt at getting an old bike back together so your information is really useful. Can I just ask - is there any way to tell if the flow back valve and recirculating system is working without opening up the engine? Or should I just replace the rubber seal and gasket anyway at the same time as changing the oil and oil filter? Thanks again for your help.
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Old 28 Jul 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connal View Post
is there any way to tell if the flow back valve and recirculating system is working without opening up the engine? Or should I just replace the rubber seal and gasket anyway at the same time as changing the oil and oil filter? Thanks again for your help.
Check oil level when you park bike, check again next day. If the same amount valve is ok, if its empty you need to change. Just remove cover and change it, its easy.
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Old 30 Jul 2016
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You'd be surprised on how little oil some motors can survive on. It all depends on the pump scavenge.. Definitely not recommended though. Some motors will blow their heads if you run with just under the dip stick.

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Old 30 Jul 2016
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Wow it was worse than I thought. I've just drained the oil as per the manual instructions and got just 2.4 litres out. Bearing in mind that 2.3 litres of this was the quantity I put in it seems the bike has been running on the residual half litre or so that stays in the engine. Bearing this in mind is there any thing else I should check, apart from the bits very helpfully mentioned above, while the oil is out and the crankcase cover is off? Sorry for all the questions but this is a new adventure for me and I would like to get it right.
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Old 30 Jul 2016
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Did you remember to drain the pipe in the frame?
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Old 30 Jul 2016
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I think so xtrock. I opened both the crankcase plug and the one in the front tube of the frame and removed the oil filter so I don't think there can be much oil left in there.
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Old 30 Jul 2016
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Originally Posted by connal View Post
I think so xtrock. I opened both the crankcase plug and the one in the front tube of the frame and removed the oil filter so I don't think there can be much oil left in there.
Ok, if bike have been running on the smell off oil i dont know about the engine condition. How many km are we talking about?
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Old 30 Jul 2016
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Originally Posted by connal View Post
Sorry for all the questions but this is a new adventure for me and I would like to get it right.
This is how you learn, keep asking.
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